RTz

I'd be happy to deliver it for you, for a nominal fee of course

According to Wiki, early Ecotec's were iron, and the Ecotec II's were alum... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Family_II_engine ...hmmm...

That was my first thought. He posted two different blocks, though. This block is alum... ...still, the architecture is 'off'.

Center Line Radius

I can't say with any certainty, but those don't look anything like an Ecotec.

Fuel Supply... I spent a great deal of time deliberating on what I wanted, verses what was realistic. In the end, I chose to 'git R done'. I adapted a Z31 fuel sump/baffle inside the stock 510 tank, along with a Walbro 255lp in-tank pump. What a noisy bugger! It's triple isolated and still obnoxious. Within the car, its only noticeable while idling, but open the trunk and people scatter for 3 blocks. New 5/16" SS fuel lines provide the supply & return duties, along with a firewall mounted '96 Q45 fuel filter. While I was at it, I inverted the fuel sender in anticipation of using VDO gauges (opposite read). More on that later. I haven't run the car low enough on fuel to have an opinion on the Z31 baffle. Time will tell.

Mechanically, this was a pretty low effort swap... most everything had been previously installed in a 510, I wasn't attempting anything fancy, and the SR fits so naturally. Starting with the mounts... Motor mounts consisted of 1/2" spacers. Yup, that's it. I machined 1/2" aluminum spacers and used the stock L-series rubber isolators. With the spacers, the SR bolts up to the stock cross-member. Well... kind of. The issue is not the mounts, so much as the cross-member itself. The SR being a front sump, created a bit of interference. This has been addressed in several different ways, but I chose to cut out the front biased offset and weld in a 'straight' replacement. I think a single 2" round tube would have been sufficient for any normal loads imposed, but I like to be able to jack the car up by the cross-member. This led to using 2"x1" box tube, one situated vertically, and the other horizontally. This seems to be plenty stout as jacking produces no visible deflection. The transmission mount is a modified stocker. It ain't pretty, but its stout. I cut out the center, welded in a 2"x1" box tube (horizontally) and drilled a single hole through the center. I used a GM transmission isolator, which fits the SR tranny nicely (Energy Suspension part# 3-1108G).

So do air/air intercoolers. As TonyD would say, it's system capacitance that you're after.

Grim, the water is not consumed, just circulated.

How many of you simulated crashes? If you need to take it apart, you did something wrong.

Cool beans. Keep us posted!

You are;-)

That makes sense, John. But the advantage is because the 12 makes more efficient use of the bore/stroke combination, not because there are more frequent firing pulses. That's my take, anyhow.

Ken, What's the KA-T going into?

Happy Birthday!

Just to clarify... the Nissan water temp sensor uses the same connector as the injectors discussed above.

Yes. I find GM's are generally more plentiful, though. Some Subaru's came with them as well.

Nope. Not polarity sensitive. Most GM cars have what your looking for.

I don't see this as a big deal. Remove quill shaft. Cut handle off long Chinese screwdriver. Chuck up in drill motor. Switch to reverse. Insert molested driver into oil pump. Spin until shop floor is covered in oil Just say'n... if your concerned, pump it out.

That's not whats being said. Smaller displacement (per cyl.) could mean smaller chambers (if shooting for a specific CR target). Smaller chambers, of the same 'type', will normally be less detonation prone. Good one

Rpm

Because all your recent posts are in Non-Tech or Classified section. Those don't count.

Like any project, you need tools to do the job. Tools also include information (schematics, for example). Additionally, projects require at least some understanding of what needs to be done. If you're going to retrofit an EFI system, you need to know the basics, at minimum. If you do not understand the basics, put the tools away and start reading. It's time to get serious about that statement. You've been given a hint on where to start. Here's another... the stock ('75) EFI system is more primitive, but still functions very similarly. Spend some time with the EFI Bible (search). When you get a grip on the sub-systems, and how they're wired, you'll have a foundation to help you understand the SR's sub-systems. You'll find they are alike in many way's. More importantly, you'll gain an understanding. This will help you integrate the new with the old, increase your odds of a trouble free installation, help you with future modifications, and help with future troubleshooting. You won't regret the investment. Don't misunderstand, we don't mind answering specific questions, but we're not going to install it for you. We would rather you learn how to fish, than to give you a fish.

There are only a few wires you'll connect into the stock harness. The Haynes manuals have fair schematics (small but usable). The factory service manuals are quite good. Page 20 of the EFI bible would probably suffice. There is enough info posted on this forum to figure it out. Choose your flavor.