RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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Ya they do. The voltage on one end of the resistor will be lower than the voltage on the other.
Please explain the two pictures below...
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The resistor is 8000 ohms. Voltage is the same, within one tenth. Series resistors are not efficient at dropping voltage.
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Isn't the vacuum advance itself mechanical?
Its terminology... mechanical advance happens with RPM, vacuum advance with load. They are both mechanical devices.
I'm trying to determine if I need to run the vaccum advance for a MSD 6AL using a 280zx Dist as the magnetic pickup. I think I said this right?
You never *HAVE* to run vac. advance. It helps economy and, to a lesser degree, light load throttle response.
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So this is my idea: I started to think instead of opening the air flow meter and manually adjusting it to what we want, why cant we just put an adjustable resistor on the wire that sends the signal to the computer. The point of the adjustable resistor would be to adjust the number of volts the air flow meter sends to the computer.
A series resistor won't do that. Resistors don't drop the voltage, they drop the current.
This would be good because we would be able to adjust our fuel ratios when we are driving. All we do is put the adjustable resistor in the car.
You can put a potentiometer in the water temp sender circuit and add fuel. In most cases, with mildy modded motors, a combination of adjusting the AFM and adding a potentiometer can get you pretty close.
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Search!!!
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NOOOOOOOO, not FREEZE plugs
chb280z, If you take a large diameter punch and wack the edge of the core plug inward, it will usually rotate out, or at least enough you can get a grip on it or pry underneath it.
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I fell for that one. I owe you now
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I suspect Ron's D80 was shooting pictures of his D70
Bingo.
...I know my D80 can't take it's own picture or it blows up!
I think Einstein had something to say about that
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More close-up foolishness...
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Actually, I still only own one lense... I bought a set (3) of extension tubes. They're stackable, but those pics were all taken with a 36mm tube. The other two are 12 and 20mm.
With the 36mm tube, lense zomed to 200mm, focus goes from zero out to about 4 feet. I can literally focus on dust sitting on my lense filter.
Best part is they're pretty affordable... I paid $155 for the stack of three. I frequently see single tubes for $60-$80.
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Picked up a new gadget for the Nikon. These are a bit weak, but they were all taken within a few minutes of purchase... sitting in my 510...
These are not cropped... they are 'as is' (with exception of the B&W morph). I think I'm going to like the new toy
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Guy's
Generating awareness is one thing. Taking swings at a pinata is another. Lets keep this dispassionate.
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I don't think it hurts this photo. As a matter of fact, if the lighting was perfect on this shot, it would become boring and just another shot. The harsh lighting gives it some dramatic bite.
I think cygnus brought up a good point. I think I would just leave it at a natural shot that had no post-processing. It does look pretty dramatic, like there's some ambient light in the background that could cause a scene to unfold as such.
Thanks for the advice guy's!
you... me... w0rds.
And that bee shot looks awesome. It looks like he's nudging the flower with his face. LOL. horny bees.
That bee was going to town. Fun watching him.
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This is an older pic I took with the D70. Bee is nearly saturated in pollen!...
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Did you shoot that in RAW or flat-file JPEG?
I haven't yet ventured into the land of RAW. Its on my 'to do'.
if jpeg, use photoshop's...
You assume I own a copy of PS
...where the highlights blow out the contours of the leaves and sphere shapes on the main arch of the building.
I agree... the burned out mid-frame has been bugging me. If I get some time next week I'll take a poke at fixing it.
I think the sharpness and angle and composition! is just about perfect
Thanks!
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Welcome back!
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This morning, wife and I took the Max into downtown Portland for the Saturday market and a little grub.
In some circles, Portland is highly regarded for its architecture. I've been to a few cities that I feel trump it, but it definitely has character. At the very least, its quite diverse (like its people). One shot from today...
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Thank you Cyg/Dayz.
Why are you cooking a steak in the oven?I BBQ 95% of our meats. I have no intentions of cooking a steak in an oven, but if one of these machines can *properly broil* a steak, it would tell me a lot about its useful temp. capabilities.
I find that cooking is plesure and should not be rushed if time is avalible.
I'm not talking about microwaving food. I'm talking about convection cooking in an oven that doubles as a microwave.
What I'm gathering is that this type of machine is intended to cook food quickly and then, by convection, brown it. If thats true, I have no use for it.
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Doesn't convection just mean it has a circulation fan? The heat comes from the microwaves exciting the water molecules in the food to cause the heat...so a fan would just be blowing mildy warm air around? LOL
I call a blinker fluid on this one.
I guess you missed this part
...Anyone have first hand experience with convective cooking microwaves? -
My wife has an interest in a convector microwave. I'd be happy to oblige her wish, but I'm a little skeptical. Anyone have first hand experience with convective cooking microwaves? Can 'real' food be cooked well with these... steak, roast, fish, baked potatoes, etc.?
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BTW - is it normal under boost and quickly climbing RPM to have the AFR flucuate a few points?! For example 11.5, 11.2, 11.5, 11.8, 12.2, 11.9, 12.4 all in about 3 seconds or so.
I cant seem to get a SOLID number that doesnt bounce at all
Its very tough to get a truly flat AFR. However, I might also argue that its not always the right goal.
I always figured unless I remove it and use on anaother car it would be fine.Its an issue of sensor 'age'.
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I used my torque wrench and tightened them in a criss cross pattern in 3 ft/lb incriments to a total of 12 ft/lbs.
S30 Haynes says 17lbs
S130 Haynes says 14lbs
'78 FSM says 12-15lbs
Last weekend I installed a clutch for a friend with an S130. I don't recall exactly what the min/max was, but 20 was 'nominal'.
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
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624TRQ @ 3500, 984 HP @ 6500. At 20LBS
Tom,
Something doesn't quite add up in those numbers... To make 984HP @ 6500, you'd have to be making 795 lb/ft, but you only report a max of 624. Is there a typo in there?
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This pic bugs me. I *almost* like it. The fuzzy ridge line sucks, but the colors are awesome on my desktop machine... and flat-out hideous on my laptop
queston about adujsting the air flow meter(new idea)
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
You said "adjustable resistor", I said "potentiometer". They're the same thing. Go back and read my first post, with that in mind and you'll have your answer
Taking a step back... as I said, a series resistor won't work. However, a voltage dividing circuit can be built out of two or more resistors. This is how the AFM works in the first place... it creats a voltage dividing circuit (as well as the temp sensors, TPS's, etc.) Google voltage divider... its one of the simpliest and most used circuits in electronics. I have not made an effort to figure out how do-able this would be in this case. There a few reasons, but I'll give you two to think about...
1) It would not only change the voltage at a given position, but it would also change the AFM's voltage curve.
2) The AFM 'tops out' before you reach peak RPM. In a stock NA L6, this happens somewhere around 4000 RPM, give or take. This means, at some point, the ECU is no longer measuring additional air. Any drastic changes you make to the AFM will make this transition very difficult.
I like your thinking... creativity is the spice. If you want to play with this stuff, I encourage it, but I strongly recommend using an O2 meter (preferably a wideband). This will help you understand the effect of your changes.