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HybridZ

RTz

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Posts posted by RTz

  1. I'd thought about that, and it would be one take one wicked header to do that. Could definitely be done.

     

    The supercharger won't work, at least not like it does in the intake. It seems your forgetting that, while the intake valve is open and cabable of ingesting air, the exhuast valve is closed (for most of the duration anyway). You can't draw intake through a closed exhaust valve. There's 489 other things wrong with the theory but I don't have time to write them.

     

     

    Maybe exhaust temps would go WAY down and I wouldn't have to worry about the exhaust being any hotter than say the coolant. In that case a radiator fan WOULD work.

     

    I think not.

     

    Also, those CFM ratings are in 'free air'. Introduce a restriction and the CFM will drop significanty. Axial fans suck at making static, pun intended. Juday will confirm that.

     

    My honest opinion is that you're barking up the wrong tree. Its not my place to tell you that you can't do something, but I feel your efforts could be better spent elswhere.

     

    I hate watching someone shoot themself in the foot... No amount of wishful thinking will change the outcome... its gonna hurt.

  2. True, but aren't superchargers and turbos basically air pullers?

     

    They are not typically installed with significant restriction on the 'ingest' side.

     

    Anyone actually know how much CFM a given engine is putting out at WOT?

     

    The geek in me wants to buy this:

     

    Since you've made the self proclamation of geekage, I bet you can figure it out on your own... convert 2.8 liters to cubic inches, know that a 4-stroke engine displaces half its volume every revolution, factor in time, and bingo... static CFM.

  3. You're right, it wont work on .03v, and yes, the fuel pump should be running while cranking.

     

    Try this... pull the inlet boot on the AFM, turn the key to the 'on' position, and push on the AFM door. When the AFM door comes off its seat, it engages contacts to activate the fuel pump relay. You should be able to hear the pump run.

  4. But in nearly all situations there's POSITIVE pressure in the exhaust system, meaning you're not getting ALL the exhaust out of the chamber before the valves close.

     

     

    If I understand you correctly, you're talking about 'blowing down the clearance volume'. Part of the purpose of valve overlap is to do just that. And it works very well on its own. However, depending on the engine, it doesn't become efficient until some RPM is generated. At low RPM, as you've implied, there is still a fair bit of exhaust in the chamber, diluting the 'useful' air.

     

    Keep in mind that its far easier to push air than it is to pull air. That is the reason we get by on smaller exhaust valves even though the exhaust 'volume' is greater (thermal expansion).

  5. That was the first mention of leaning since everybody else was talking about enrichment schemes.

     

    Actually, he brought that scenario up in post 5.

     

    I build nissan ecus and air flow meters for a living and have special testers for them and might be able to see how far you can skew readings from sensors before the ecu no longer does a mild adjustment but instead decides your car is cold and reverts to cold operation.

     

     

    Not sure I follow. As I undestand it, with these ECU's, "cold running" is only handled by the water temp sensor, and its simply a 'compensation'... no 'cold operation mode'. Thats what my experience tells me. If you've found something different, I'd really like to understand.

  6. Still, I don't know how much I want to suffer at the pump. I'm curious to see what kind of mileage it will get in stock form and go from there.

     

    For what its worth, with regard to stand-alone, there is no reason you would get better fuel economy with a MAF system. Obviously, it requires proper tuning, blah, blah, blah. Point is, I'll bet money an aftermarket system is capable of BETTER fuel econmy than a factory ECU in stock configuration.

  7. hey i have a 78 280z and have been looking for an aftermarket mass air set up for my car. there use to be a guy in my town that did it but hes no longer here so, if someone knows where i can find one please let me know. thanks.

     

    Where do I begin?

     

    OK, lets start with your shift key.... please use it.

     

    There may be some terminology conflicts in this thread. Those always add to the confusion, but in a nutshell, your engine is modified extensively enough that you really ought to be considering a complete stand alone EFI system. You do not need a MAF system per say. MAF is a load measuring device, much like an AFM, MAP sensor, or even TPS (if configured that way). They all go about it differently and they all have their advantages and disadvantages. But they can all serve the same principle function. Load.

     

    There is a simplified description here... http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=808851&postcount=1

     

     

    the stock air flow meter was more of an on/off switch than an analog sensor.

     

    Not remotely true.

  8. Ban this dude!

     

    Don't think I will. I happen to agree with him.

     

    Morals and cars just dont mix.... at least not in my book.

     

    Do we know the circumstances of these cars being left in the snow? Who is the owner and what are his plans/goals for the cars? There's a lot more to the picture than two very nice cars being left in the snow.

     

    Exactly. Owner could be deceased... and here were are trampling.

  9. ...having an amazing saturation...

     

    The D80 is wonderful with color. Reds really bang.

     

    You've noticed I'm not a big 'color guy'. For the most part, If the colors don't zing, I don't want any. B&W floats my boat, more often than not.

     

     

    Finally took some more, some are you cliche-esq...

     

    Thats the real trick, isnt it? A picture can be technically correct in all the way's we can find to define it, but if it doesn't 'make us think', its just another picture. Its one of the (many) things I'm stuggling with myself.

  10. When I hooked up a timing light you can literally see my crank mark walking around in slow motion for the complete rotation.

     

    I'm with Mario on this. If timing was actually changing by a full rotation, the car would run audibly different while idling. It would quit running in a short period.

     

     

    is that something you would be able to see.

     

    If you were looking for it... match-mark both rear pulley's. They are isolated from each other with vulcanized rubber. If separation has begun, it will show in the match-marks. If you find that this is the case, do not continue to run the engine until you sort it out.

     

     

    Bad thing is I had it powdercoated when I was rebuilding my motor

     

    The temperatures powdercoating is normally done at strike me as incompatible with the isolation material.

  11. FakeFlowers.jpg

     

     

     

    I've been had.

     

    I'm driving along and notice our town graveyard has a few bouquet's of flowers all nicely frosted over. Pulled in, snapped two quick shots to get a feel for framing. Look at the preview, zoom in and.... what the? LCD is showing a distinctively symmetric pattern... you know, kind of like synthetic. Take a better look at the 'flowers' and sure enough... fake :banghead: I didn't bother to take any more.

     

    Outside of the humility, you gotta admit there's a certain irony in placing artificial flowers on a tombstone, eh?

  12. From the front of the water pump pulley to the front of the bell housing 32 inches

    Widest part of the engine with the power steering pump 27 inches

    Top of the front of the valve cover to the bottom of the crank pulley 24 inches

    Top of the front of the valve cover to the bottom of the oil pan 30 inches.

     

    Sweet Dan!

     

    I ran a tape on an L6 for comparison...

     

    Front of water pump pulley to bell house, 30"

    Top front of valve cover to CENTER of crank pulley, 17.5" Depending on the pulley, to the BOTTOM would be about 20.25"

    Top front of valve cover to bottom of pan, 25.25"

     

    So... L is nearly 6" shorter in overall height and roughly 2" shorter in overall length. Sounds like a tight fit.

  13. wait so the only way to lean out my ratio is by manually adjusting my afm?

     

    Go back an re-read Noodles posts. He's telling you how he went leaner. In a nutshell, If you provide less resistance than the water temp sensor normally would, your mixture will be leaner than it normally would.

     

    You do understand that there is risk in playing with this stuff, right?

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