RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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A two piece design... scary stuff in my opinion.
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its a 73.
they don't?
Nope, no rear tie rods. Rear toe is not adjustable.
*If* the rear is significantly toed-in, something may be bent. Most shops will take "thrust" measurements (toe on each side, individually). What did the report say? If all the toe-in is 'on one side', that should help narrow your focus.
well when i had it tested for alignmment they said it was very badly pidgeon toed in the rear tires. but they couldn't adjust it because the tie rods were rusted too bad.
I see four possible scenario's...
1) You misunderstood what they said. If so, communication skills may need work
2) They actually said that, but have NO idea what they're looking at. If so, learn to check it yourself or take it to a different shop.
3) They are taking advantage of you. If so, you cannot trust anything they are telling you. Either learn to check it yourself or take it to a different shop.
4) Previous owner installed adjustable control arms. If so, posting a picture of the rear suspension will go a long way toward settling this.
1 & 3 are the most common, in my experience.
P.S. Do us all a favor and fix your shift key
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If i was in that price range, id buy a lotus elise or if you can afford, exige.
Cool cars, but I'm convinced they are the worst 'date car' ever built. I bet even Lotus would agree to that
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those pictures are so awesome... :shock:I am off to google "dennis palatov" to find more info! What exactly is the name of that uber-milling process, and what material is being used there??
Settle yourself in for some good reading (and answered questions)...
http://dpcars.net/dp1dsn/index.htm
http://dpcars.net/dp1bld/index.htm
Dennis lives about an hour from me. Terrific guy (and humbling to be around).
That's about as far as I'm willing to jack this thread (sorry Mull).
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Overall it IS a very stunning design, too bad you can't pop a mold off of a 3D rendering
Obviously not quite that simply, but in effect, you can.
Dennis Palatov's creation...
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Blue; Ron says he’ll post on that.
"Flow Guide Valve"...
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Hi Bo,
Whats your cooling system like?
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seriously? no one can help me with this?
Chill. Its only been 6 hours.
The most common cause of 'flooding' with an L-Jet is a problem with the water temp circuit. The sensor itself, poor contacts, or, much less likely, a wiring problem. The most noticeable behavior is that it starts up and runs fine when its cold and, as it warms, it runs progressively richer, with the car eventually running very poorly or not at all.
Under what specific conditions is it flooding? Being clear and descriptive will get you on the road sooner and more efficiently.
Changing title to something useful for the next guy...
P.S. Fix your shift key.
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Just a random thought that occurred to me, but has anyone ever mirrored (almost) a 6 into 1 exhaust setup, but for the intake side of the engine?
You might find this useful...
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116029
It seems like I read alot about one or two of the cylinders with almost any intake (specifically the #1 cylinder), not getting enough air.
Where have you read that?
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Momo and Sparco share the same bolt pattern. In theory, a Momo adapter should work... part#3503. I have not personally tried this. Use at your own risk. Batteries not included.
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Man, they spelled the FIDDLE circuit wrong!
Fast idle
"they" be me
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That is why even in the long run, fuses will still usually be cheaper, since they really are rare to blow on a properly wired car...
My contention isn't with fuses as much as it is the commonly available fuse blocks. I've had some leave-you-stranded issues with aftermarket fuse blocks (again, not the fuse or downstream circuit), so I've begun avoiding them.
As Bo alluded, I've grown fond of CB's. They can be pretty easy to install and my confidence is greater.
An example installation...
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I love the design but have issues with the rear louvers.
I have to agree with that.
Also, the front strikes me as 'trendy' rather than 'timeless'.
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Awe heck Hugh, its only money
Gotta love them 'double dampers'...
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Prayers on the way!
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The content and the value of this site comes from the members. Some of the members also voluntarily perform the role of mdoerators and administrators. All the admins and mods do is (to the best of their abilities and comensurate with their pay) ensure the rules are followed by the members.
Its really pretty simple.
Amen!
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Justin,
Apologies for my recent absence. Soooooper occupied latley. Anyhow, you've got my blessing... release data at your discretion
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I agree, there have been many questionable words spoken by the admins, which are far out of line. But when its "their" site, what can ya do????
Ya know Bryan, we're people too. The one time I know an admin let his temper slip a bit, he publicly apologized to you. If I we're you, I'd take that appology as sincere and move on. Accord?
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In my haste, I left out a couple details in my second post in effort to simplify my point. Let me clarify...
There are 6 'teeth' in the distributor that pass by a VR sensor. The VR sends this 'event information' on to the ignition module. The module process's this signal, charges, and then fires the coil via its neg. terminal.
The ECU is also connected to the coil neg. terminal. This provides RPM information to the ECU. The ECU knows every third 'pulse' equals one revolution, and injects 1/2 the amount of needed fuel.
There are many challenges in meeting your goals. It's not worth the hassle, in my opinion... there are easier way's to skin your cat.
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If its batch injector firing then why is this even needed? it would be the same as running it on a single cylinder and just needs the length of time between each spark event to coordinate fuel curve.
Batch-fire injects half the needed fuel every crankshaft revolution. It knows one revolution has occurred when three ignition events have occured, and that happens when three teeth pass the VR. See the problem?
Just want have it running untill I can source a decent UNMODIFIED wiring harness and ECM.
I'm certain you'll be much happier with the results if you source those items first.
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Sincere congrats Scottie! Put your watch in the sock drawer.
Did you ever work with Don McKenna?
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All it needs is air, fuel, spark and oil, right?
Don't forget quantity.
Find two dyno sheets of a stock L28 and one of a KA. Take a look at the torque curve. Not the 'value', but rather the 'shape'. Completely different. This shape represents the VE curve of the engine. The L28 L-jet is tuned for a much flatter curve. Short version? You're AFR's will be 'unusable' through a significant portion of the curve. Run? Yes. Drivable? Not by my definition.
Furthur, locked timing would be wretched on the street, in my opinion.
Keep in mind, this stuff doesn't just reduce power. It also has the potential to shorten engine life, sometimes significantly.
Only issue that I see that might be an issue is spark dwell.Dwell is handled by the ignition module. The ECU knows not/cares not about dwell.
For the dizzy, I tapped the and added a terminal for the coil so I can just totally bypass the circuitry (I know, not advance/retard, I'll deal with it later), so I"ll have to deal with spark separately from the EFI system.
I do not understand the above.
The ECU is looking for 6 evenly spaced pulses from a VR sensor. Are you providing that to the ECU?
I'm left thinking your plan is very temporary. What is the long term plan? Why not do that first?
Moving to Fuel Delivery...
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I have a question on the stock EFI system. Is injector firing on these batch or sequential?
Stock is batch fire. I'm guessing, back in '75, sequential was some engineers wet dream.
Any other suggestions? Issues that might arise?
I think you're about pull the trigger on a shotgun... aimed at your foot.
How to post pics
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
One way... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=783354