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RTz

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Posts posted by RTz

  1. those pictures are so awesome... :shock:I am off to google "dennis palatov" to find more info! What exactly is the name of that uber-milling process, and what material is being used there??

     

    Settle yourself in for some good reading (and answered questions)...

     

    http://dpcars.net/dp1dsn/index.htm

     

    http://dpcars.net/dp1bld/index.htm

     

    Dennis lives about an hour from me. Terrific guy (and humbling to be around).

     

    That's about as far as I'm willing to jack this thread (sorry Mull).

  2. seriously? no one can help me with this?

     

    Chill. Its only been 6 hours.

     

    The most common cause of 'flooding' with an L-Jet is a problem with the water temp circuit. The sensor itself, poor contacts, or, much less likely, a wiring problem. The most noticeable behavior is that it starts up and runs fine when its cold and, as it warms, it runs progressively richer, with the car eventually running very poorly or not at all.

     

    Under what specific conditions is it flooding? Being clear and descriptive will get you on the road sooner and more efficiently.

     

    Changing title to something useful for the next guy...

     

    P.S. Fix your shift key.

  3. That is why even in the long run, fuses will still usually be cheaper, since they really are rare to blow on a properly wired car...

     

    My contention isn't with fuses as much as it is the commonly available fuse blocks. I've had some leave-you-stranded issues with aftermarket fuse blocks (again, not the fuse or downstream circuit), so I've begun avoiding them.

     

    As Bo alluded, I've grown fond of CB's. They can be pretty easy to install and my confidence is greater.

     

    An example installation...

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=753989&postcount=1

  4. The content and the value of this site comes from the members. Some of the members also voluntarily perform the role of mdoerators and administrators. All the admins and mods do is (to the best of their abilities and comensurate with their pay) ensure the rules are followed by the members.

     

    Its really pretty simple.

     

    Amen!

  5. I agree, there have been many questionable words spoken by the admins, which are far out of line. But when its "their" site, what can ya do????

     

    Ya know Bryan, we're people too. The one time I know an admin let his temper slip a bit, he publicly apologized to you. If I we're you, I'd take that appology as sincere and move on. Accord?

  6. In my haste, I left out a couple details in my second post in effort to simplify my point. Let me clarify...

     

    There are 6 'teeth' in the distributor that pass by a VR sensor. The VR sends this 'event information' on to the ignition module. The module process's this signal, charges, and then fires the coil via its neg. terminal.

     

    The ECU is also connected to the coil neg. terminal. This provides RPM information to the ECU. The ECU knows every third 'pulse' equals one revolution, and injects 1/2 the amount of needed fuel.

     

    There are many challenges in meeting your goals. It's not worth the hassle, in my opinion... there are easier way's to skin your cat.

  7. If its batch injector firing then why is this even needed? it would be the same as running it on a single cylinder and just needs the length of time between each spark event to coordinate fuel curve.

     

     

    Batch-fire injects half the needed fuel every crankshaft revolution. It knows one revolution has occurred when three ignition events have occured, and that happens when three teeth pass the VR. See the problem?

     

     

    Just want have it running untill I can source a decent UNMODIFIED wiring harness and ECM.

     

     

    I'm certain you'll be much happier with the results if you source those items first.

  8. All it needs is air, fuel, spark and oil, right?

     

    Don't forget quantity.

     

    Find two dyno sheets of a stock L28 and one of a KA. Take a look at the torque curve. Not the 'value', but rather the 'shape'. Completely different. This shape represents the VE curve of the engine. The L28 L-jet is tuned for a much flatter curve. Short version? You're AFR's will be 'unusable' through a significant portion of the curve. Run? Yes. Drivable? Not by my definition.

     

    Furthur, locked timing would be wretched on the street, in my opinion.

     

    Keep in mind, this stuff doesn't just reduce power. It also has the potential to shorten engine life, sometimes significantly.

     

     

    Only issue that I see that might be an issue is spark dwell.

     

    Dwell is handled by the ignition module. The ECU knows not/cares not about dwell.

     

    For the dizzy, I tapped the and added a terminal for the coil so I can just totally bypass the circuitry (I know, not advance/retard, I'll deal with it later), so I"ll have to deal with spark separately from the EFI system.

     

    I do not understand the above.

     

    The ECU is looking for 6 evenly spaced pulses from a VR sensor. Are you providing that to the ECU?

     

    I'm left thinking your plan is very temporary. What is the long term plan? Why not do that first?

     

    Moving to Fuel Delivery...

  9. I have a question on the stock EFI system. Is injector firing on these batch or sequential?

     

    Stock is batch fire. I'm guessing, back in '75, sequential was some engineers wet dream.

     

    Any other suggestions? Issues that might arise?

     

    I think you're about pull the trigger on a shotgun... aimed at your foot.

  10. This thread really hasn't provided any proof that Jim has done anything wrong. So, let me share a couple facts...

     

    Jim titled post 14 with...

     

    enough is enough of these lies..derek

     

    Jim said in post 16...

     

    purchased a 3 piece spoiler that we removed from a early z parts car and cleaned it up and posted it for sale on ebay.

     

    Jim told me in an email...

     

    the spoiler was removed from the back of a datsun 240z that was bought to be scrapped and sell what ever good parts were on it.

     

    This also in an email...

     

    I REMOVED THE SPOILER FROM A 240 Z AND ADVERTISED IT AS SUCH IN GOOD FAITH AS ARE ALL MY Z PARTS AS PER MODEL AND YEAR THAT THEY SHOULD FIT.

     

     

    These pictures prove the spoiler could not have been removed from a 240Z....

     

     

    DerekSpoilerA.jpg

     

     

    DerekSpoilerB.jpg

     

     

    The source of the lying seems pretty clear to me.

     

     

    Jim and I have exchanged a large amount of email. In all our email correspondence' date=' Jim has never admitted any fault on his part. He has copies of these pictures and hasn't denied the spoiler pictured is the one he shipped.

     

    He has not offered to refund Derek's money in full, or alternatively, provide him with a 3-piece spoiler that [i']will[/i] fit an S30.

     

    The only thing I've gotten from him is threats, lies, and a bunch of math that shows Jim losing money if he provides a refund. We'll Jim, that's what happens when you misrepresent parts... someone loses money. You've decided to allow Derek to pay for your mistake.

     

    I wont be buying any parts from Jim Brennan.

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