RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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You've got one more chance to explain your point with more detail, otherwise this off topic discussion gets deleted from Grumpys wonderful thread.
Sorry Paul, I'm pulling the E-brake on this one.
gocart98r, You've been PM'd
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A couple ye... OK, a decade ago, I cut a sister hole on the passenger side...
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Amazing pics.....!!!! Love the ice.
Thanks!
Something about that one 'gets me'.
I added a tad of post-process. Hope you don't mind too much...
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We got a touch of snow last week...
Roslyn lake beginning to freeze over...
Road trip...
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I really do need to know the spline count on the engine, so I can figure out exactly what transmission I can fit on it. I'm fairly sure that the Viper t56 will fit, but input shaft diameter/length/spline-count are all factors that I can't confirm.
There is no spline count on the engine. The splines are in the clutch disc.
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Other than that: you're welcome to call me a liar, or a newb, or whatever you'd like. You're welcome to suggest that I'm making it up... as long as you allow me the room to respond with the suggestion that you're all just trying to help people spend money that could be avoided, because you hate it when others create a project that isn't yours, or done the way you'd do it. ('cuz that's the feeling I sometimes get from this forum)
I think you're misunderstanding. If you make profound claims, especially if they contradict popular experience, its only natural for people to ask for some substance... somthing to lend credibility. Its not an unreasonable request. In fact, it would be unreasonable for you to expect us to just 'swallow it' brainlessly. Hope that makes sense.
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Ron, besides the wideband, are there any other changes to the firmware?
Not that I've been told.
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Actually, a SBC is about 7 1/2". That hole is getting awfully deep
So if that were true, which I think it is higher myself to the bottom of the sump, not just the front of the pan...
If you indeed do have actual experience and credible knowledge in this field, you really need to qualify your statements a LOT better than you have.
That is precisely the problem, Six... your statements are a bit empty. We'd all be happy to entertain your thoughts, but you need to give us some firm ground.
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Might be true too!!!! Crazy.. I never would have guessed.
Tough to swallow, isn't it?
My EJ22 measures pretty close to 28" 'cover-to-cover'.
This twin cammer is 32.5" (sorry, can't credit photo)...
It would be really nice to have a confirmation on the 22".
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He states the widest point is 22 inches...
Well, now... that's an interesting little tidbit.
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Note to self: Add Jon to my ban list
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I wish there was a way to get rid of bogus or non-Hybridz related entries like this. The admin's should be able edit as they see fit. Just my .02C.
We're working on it
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First off, according to some specs sheets I have, the 280Z ran a slightly wilder cam than the 240.
240 and 280 carry same cam specs.
280 uses internal cam oiling, whilst the N42 head I have was set up for the oiling tube.
As far as the head is concerned, both oiling systems are interchangeable.
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Life is very short and we can't take our ♥♥♥♥ with us...
Amen. Ever see a U-haul behind a hearse?... me neither.
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I've been holding off on this in effort to report accurate info. Sorry for the delay...
Wolf has gone the 'external' route for wide-band processing, meaning there's an external 'converter box'.
1) All early ECU's may be returned to Wolf for a firmware upgrade and converter free of charge.
2) All new purchases require the converter be purchased separately, at approx $125 US.
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Unfortunately this isn't offered for sale. It was on a yellow 510 with a turbo KA that was at Shasta a few years back. In case anyone saw it.
Stunning car. Probably my favorite Dime...
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Unfortunately, this is the only pic I have of the rear suspension...
Epperly was responsible for the 4 link, yes?
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Enjoy
Thanks for sharing those!
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Wife and I just got back from this motion picture. Twenty minutes in, we were ready to walk out. Decided to hang in there instead. What a mistake.
I've seen worse, but not very damn many.
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It looks like my injectors are # GM5235048*RPD - GM 4095. I don't know what app they came off of... but almost 100% certain it was a 4.3L V6. Anyone have an idea what these flow?
I wasn't able to cross-reference those. Maybe call a GM dealer and ask if those supersede or have been.
OK, so what if I just plan to install the stock regulator in the return line of the GM TBI regulator, with no vacuum source (atmospheric pressure at the signal input)(I can attach a boost signal if nececessary to up the psi with boost).
You can do that. However, Strotter mentioned dead-heading the GM regulator. The most obvious advantage is reducing the possibilty of an undersized return. He may have other thoughts as well... maybe he'll chime.
Will the stock Z regulator produce a constant pressure or will the TBI regulator mess it up, since it is "iffy'?
Either way you do it, I don't see any conflict.
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Basically can I lower the fuel pressure on a stock system without hurting the fuel pump?
Yes.
Will the fuel pump actually have more flow because it is not having to work as hard to create pressure?
Yes.
A few items...
1) There is a '15 psi' regulator built-in (red circle)...
Supply on the left, return on the right.
2) The only potential issue that I see is the size of the return side. It needs to be large enough to flow all unused fuel at low demand (such as idle). The internal orifice's are pretty small, so it may take a little massaging to make that happen.
3) The regulator is nominal at 15psi, but this specific regulator is 'all over the place'. It will probably require some attention simply becuase I think your potential HP out ways the flow capacity of your injectors.
4) Which brings us to... which injectors do you have? The most common ones I see are #5235206. See red circle...
Those are rated for 55lbs/hr at 13 PSI
The 9C1 police cars came with 65lb/hr at 13PSI
There are several others if you dig.
5) I understand all these Rochester injectors are perfectly happy at 30-32 PSI. And some of them are good to around 70 PSI.
I see no reason you couldn't take the stock Datsun regulator and piggyback it on to the GM regulator (essentially overriding it). 36-38 PSI *might* work just fine with those injectors, and you're probably going to need it.
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The simple answer to your question is yes, you can regulate the stock EFI pump down. BUT, the stock pump is built to recirculate... if you allow it to dead-head, it wont survive. Those common non-recirculating carb regulators are a no-no in this case.
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Yes, I was informed WB functionality is ready.
I have some questions on implementation so we're discussing details.
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What I've learned by doing a few of these kinds of things (in Miatas, FD RX7s, 240Zs, and E36 BMWs) is that, with proper reinforcement, its really not an issue. For the 240Z, welding the OEM front crossmember in place and reinforcing the frame rails between the TC box and the welded in crossmember adds a lot of support in that area. I also, in the front wheel well, weld in plates that connect the reinforcement where the crossmember mounts to the reinforced area on the wheel well for the strut towers.
I agree. If an engine is frame mounted with suitable reinforcement, I can think of no significant drawback.
Who races competitively?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Keeping it simple...
I'm going to parrot JM. Competitive autoXing, while not cheap, is attainable by a lot of folk. That's its primary purpose. The target is budget racer's.
Agreed, its a double edged sword. Seat time is reduced... and so is expense. Tires still cost $1000 an hour. However, you race an average 3 minutes per event. One set may get you through two typical regional seasons (performance may vary, batteries not included, yada, yada, yada).
Point is, cost is still proportionate to seat time but Jane Doe can win... and autoX is as technically challenging/demanding as any other motorsport event.