RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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I've deleted a few posts.
Even though they were presented in truth, its probably going a bit too far.
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This thread really hasn't provided any proof that Jim has done anything wrong. So, let me share a couple facts...
Jim titled post 14 with...
enough is enough of these lies..derek
Jim said in post 16...
purchased a 3 piece spoiler that we removed from a early z parts car and cleaned it up and posted it for sale on ebay.
Jim told me in an email...
the spoiler was removed from the back of a datsun 240z that was bought to be scrapped and sell what ever good parts were on it.
This also in an email...
I REMOVED THE SPOILER FROM A 240 Z AND ADVERTISED IT AS SUCH IN GOOD FAITH AS ARE ALL MY Z PARTS AS PER MODEL AND YEAR THAT THEY SHOULD FIT.
These pictures prove the spoiler could not have been removed from a 240Z....
The source of the lying seems pretty clear to me.
Jim and I have exchanged a large amount of email. In all our email correspondence' date=' Jim has never admitted any fault on his part. He has copies of these pictures and hasn't denied the spoiler pictured is the one he shipped.
He has not offered to refund Derek's money in full, or alternatively, provide him with a 3-piece spoiler that [i']will[/i] fit an S30.
The only thing I've gotten from him is threats, lies, and a bunch of math that shows Jim losing money if he provides a refund. We'll Jim, that's what happens when you misrepresent parts... someone loses money. You've decided to allow Derek to pay for your mistake.
I wont be buying any parts from Jim Brennan.
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Happy Happy Birthday!
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A good share of the Oregon valley floor received 1"-3" of accumulated snow this weekend
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So it is a 82-83 disty trigger wheel (that is what it looks like), correct?
Affirmative
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The thread title says "crank". Is this really a crank sensor? Looks more like one from an optical distributor.
Pete,
Technically you're right, its being used as a cam angle sensor (which also indirectly corrolates with the crank). However, Nissan labeled it a crank angle sensor years ago, so I guess they're both right, depending on which side of the coin you're standing on.
Admittedly, Cam is more descriptive.
I'll change the title to CAS
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Why is the sync hole now on the opposite side of the slit?
Both pictures show the hole to the right of the slit, but the disc on the right looks to be flipped upside down
Good eye.
Its not upside down, just 180 degrees out. It just changes sequencing... nothing to do with the trigger errors.
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I gave Jim two opportunities to answer my questions. I got the same vague, useless information posted earlier in this thread, twice. His membership has been terminated.
My personal assessment is that his error was made in complete honesty. We all make mistakes. Where he is negligent is in his lack of willingness to correct the mistake. Telling Derek to sell the part to someone else does not qualify as acceptable business practice. Offering a refund would have been prudent.
I'm re-opening the thread. Keep it clean and civil or it gets tossed.
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Damn,not even that can alleviate the disco revival, hideous 80's, abomination look of the vette interior.
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... Or you could just buy a C-5 or C-6 and install a Z car steering wheel?
Done...
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Food for thought, on some twin engine planes with systems that syncrophase the propellers, I've noticed that the control unit gets two signals from wheels mounted behind each prop. One wheel has 60 or so teeth and is strictly used to determine the rpm of the prop, and the other wheel has one tooth for each blade to determine the phase angle. In this analogy the phase angle would be like the crank tdc, only of course on props there are more than one position to worry about.
The problem with this comparison is that airplane engines don't transition (and they don't need to). Ever fly one? If you jam the throttle open, they puke.
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Im closing this thread temporarily.
Jim,
98% of your posting is totally irrelevant. No one cares what it cost you to run a business out of ebay. Thats your risk and your decision.
Please PM me with answers to the following questions...
Was the spoiler you sold to Derek made for a Camero?
At the time, did you know it was not built for a Datsun?
Was it advertised as being built for a Camero? or modified to fit a Datsun?
Did you offer to refund Dereks money in a timely manner?
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I hope you don't mind me stealing your picture and adding a little comment?
The trigger wheel on the left ran fine below 4500 RPM. At or above 4500 it began producing trigger errors (loosing track).
The trigger wheel on the right produces no errors.
Wolf has been able to read the high resolution row successfully, so it doesn't appear to be a processing problem. Rather, it appears that there is a difference in the optical sensor low res. row. The 'light path' may be broader. Thats my guess, anyhow. I shoud take one apart just for giggles.
The successful triggers sync hole is .100" in dia., and about .100" edge-to-edge from the slit.
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Ron, either you learned how to touch up photos to near perfect status since the last time we exchanged email (what... a week ago?!), or that car is absolutely SPOTLESS.
Nope... not me. That car was insanely clean.
where'd u have to stand for the first shot, anyway? u have a mono pod with a double-wrist mount?
I just held the camera up and pressed the PHD button
It helps to be 6'-4" -
Couldn't they simply have one for tdc and program the ecu to figure it out?
In theory, that could work. In reality, the lack of resolution would be a problem in many cases. Its not steady RPM that poses the difficulty, rather the transient RPM. Take an extreme example... cresting a hill, unloading the tires, and generating significant wheel spin accompanied with an abrupt RPM increase (or a boat that went air born). The 'instant' RPM increase can cause the ECU to 'get behind'.
This is not a simple thing, as I understand it. It has a lot to do with internal algorithm's, processing power, trigger priority, etc.
Keep in mind, this is not an externally obvious characteristic. There are some systems that implement a 36-1 wheel... but they 'ignore' some teeth. In other words, just because an EMS requires a 36-1 wheel, doesn't mean it calculates 36 teeth... it may very well evaluate every sixth tooth, for example.
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I need a cigarette
Snapped these at last years Fly-in/Cruise-in...
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ahhhhh... yea I thought there was going to be an update.
Jason,
You can send your ECU to Wolf for the upgrade. They will return an ECU with hardware and firmware upgrades as well as a TechEdge interface. The upgrade is free, but you'll pay shipping one way which is typically a smidge over $100.
Drop me a line sometime, I'd like to hear how things are going.
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do you have any mounts left? is so please lat us know
Post 44... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127993&page=3
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Then there's the old favorites....dash cover, door panels, stereo, HID headlights, billet grill, seat covers, carpet.
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I can't top jt1's gift, but I will wish you a very happy Bday
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Armand, could you reduce your sig. pic. size, per our rules, please?
Thanks!
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Okay i was driving home tonight and i noticed upon startup that the battery "idiot light" was dimly lit,
Disclaimer- I've never touched wrench nor DVM to any Z31, but I'll take a stab...
The battery idiot light has no likely connection to the ECU. It very well may be reflecting a charge problem.
...then to my suprise all of the dash warning lights except the "sensor" light came on!
What is a "sensor light"?
...the lights slowly come on when im running above 2,100-2,300 rpms or when im at or above 55mph, below that they turn off...what could cause this?
With the above info, the first thing I'd be looking into is the charging system. Do you have a voltmeter? What does it say?
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Ultra Carbide Tool
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Damn.
Wonder what alloy? 12L14 machines pretty rapidly... but not quite like that.