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Posts posted by RTz
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Sorry to kindof hijack the thread.
You're not jacking a thread. Its entirely appropriate. I'd be happy to entertain alternate thoughts. Anyone see this different?
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As Ron says "give it what it likes", so what are you doing that your motor like so much?
I'm going to burn in hell for that, aren't I?
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And I would upgrade to a 3/8" supply line. Then run the stock 5/16" supply line as your return line. Thats what most turbo guys do.
The supply should be sized for HP and the return should be sized for the pump... the return should never be smaller than the supply.
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I vote for a shut down.
You got it.
Peace,
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It stops right here guy's. Play nice or it will be shut down.
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Welcome Back Spence!
You'll have to swing by the shop sometime... maybe even join us for the fly-in?
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Great! I've been eye-balling the same plenum. Its quite proven and the concept seems solid.
Turbobluestreak CFD'd mine. Give him a PM... maybe you can sweet talk him into yours. Would love to see the result.
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Is it feasible to install dished turbo pistons in an F54 block and use a P79 head with a turbo exhaust manifold? Or am I better off running the flat tops and lower boost?
Depends on what you want. If response and fuel efficiency are more important than an impressive dyno sheet (especially if only for 'bursts' of power), then I might lean towards a higher CR.
...and even used the NA electronics. I can't tell how satisfied they are with their decisions, or how long the motors have lasted, or knowing know what they do now if they'd do it that way again. Can't find that in the archives.I know a gentleman, in a stock bodied Z, thats run well beyond 200mph (documented) with something similar to what you describe. He understood what he was doing. I've also done it, although not on that level. Would I do it again? Heck no... its a pain in the backside.
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....and now I know why most folks here stick around. I had a grin from ear to ear after the 2nd hour.
Good to hear Its the level of challenge that makes the reward so rewarding.
I'm not exactly sure how he did it, but "Mr. Wolf3D" has hooked up visible and audible warnings in case the oil pressue or engine temp goes beyond a certain limit. I think you can also have the engine automatically shut down if you lose oil pressue or the temperature skyrocketsYou're correct, Hugh... those things are pretty straight forward. There's a nearly infinite ability to integrate safety provisions, both invasive and non-invasive. I would caution on shutting the engine down, though. Its easy enough to accomplish, but I can't think of many scenario's that I'd be comfortable with that. However, a 'limp home' mode can be created for similar purposes.
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I don't see how narrowing the subframe would have an effect on the geometry of the suspension.
It has everything to do with the geometry, particularly roll centers and RC migration. Do some googling... its out there.
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Correct me if I am wrong, but Braap is saying our 240z's have much less distance from frame rail to outer fender lip than an SC300.
Thats not how I take what he wrote.
Thus the wheel would be positioned way far out of the fender compared to stock?
From the pictures, it looks that way.
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and for guys who race or auto x alot. driving a z is fun, but driving a tuned type-r or a nicely swapped and built EG hatch on a autox is so much fun. there is nothing like driving a well tuned dc2 through some sharp down hill turns at any road course with major elevation changes.
Since this is opinion based, I'll toss in my two cents... I've been nearly equally successful in both FWD and RWD... but the fun gods lean in favor of RWD... nothing like four-wheel steering to 'supercharge' adrenaline.
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ok, well, with this being said how much if any would a welded crossmember weaken its strength?
I'm thinking that Braaps concern was not limited to strength, but geometry.
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...is C4 vette suspension really all that much better then Z car?
Great question! Unfortunately, you'll get all sorts of opinions.
Here's mine... in a word, yes.
First I think there is some importance in distinguishing a C4... there are two varying front suspensions... '84 through '87 and '88 through '96. Within those will be further arguments. Putting those aside...
Its not so much that a C4 is 'all that', but I think its reasonable to consider that there's ~15 years of technology difference (willfully acknowledging that technology is not always advancement).
In summary, the S30's front suspension is high on kingpin & scrub, low on caster, with no appreciable ackerman, and coupled with high unsprung weight. Thats not an insult... just contrary to modern beliefs.
There are a few members here that will argue either side with more savvy than I, but the point remains... The C4 front suspension leans more in the direction of improvement than not.
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... I need to measure the frame rail spacing of the sc300 now...
Agreed. It may be an illusion, but those rails seem wide.
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If it is in fact out of a '96 Vette, it is (or was) an LT4.
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Do you realize you brought back a 4 months old thread to ask a question that could have been simply asked by posting a new thread?
I would actually prefer relevant information in relevant threads... even if it goes on for years. I believe the search engine is used to better effect, in that scenario.
And to top it off, here's a link you would have gotten had you searched.http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/597707/597707#msg-597707
It was linked in a VB Power Locks thread.
I think its asking a little too much to ask members to search in other forums. While its good advice to dispatch all of your resources, it would become a never ending can of worms, in my opinion.
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Thank you
A real privilege, without question.
My hope is to live up to the standards of those before me. Tough shoes to fill, but I'll do my best.
Thanks again for your support,
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I dunno maybe in the right light, covered in gas, on fire, it could be nice
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This thread will go back on topic or it will be closed.
pavcon, I can appreciate English not being your first language. However, its no excuse for name calling or direct insults. You've been warned. If you would like to discuss this further, PM me and we'll sort it out.
Good Day,
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Again, is this with oil or moly? The spec that I received with my head stud kit gave both numbers, and they were quite a bit different. It sounds like they may have changed their spec, but the 60lb-ft number is closer to the number I had for motor oil.
Now that I am looking at it, 60lb-ft with moly would be getting pretty close to the yield strength of the stud, according to the spec they supplied with mine.
Tim,
I just opened a new box of ARP head studs and the paperwork specifies 60 with moly lube.
main cap? head to block specs is what i need. maybe thats just different terminology but idk lemmie know.Not different terminology... different part. The main cap is the cast piece that fastens the crankshaft in, and contains the lower bearing half.
Stock head bolt torque spec (done in three stages)... 29 lb/ft, 40 lb/ft, and finally 60. There is a recommended sequence, so either do some searching here or pick up a Haynes manual, FSM, etc, etc.
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Definatly my CNC machine.. Right...
I agree, its not the most used tool in the shop... but it is my favorite. No CNC though, just manual.
eBay Scam Again?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
"...i bought it from a friend that works on race cars and he has done upgrades on the datsun."