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RTz

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Posts posted by RTz

    Mechanical Engineers? Modifying JTR Mounts for More Offset/Math Calc.

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Ok your NEVER going to bend a 3/8" thick boxed or even correctly multi-gusseted & tig welded, steel motor mount simply because anything on the cars frame you bolt it or weld it TOO will bend first if enought stress is applied, you might also consider the potential stress and weight of the drive train are FAR below the tensile and sheer and torsional strength a correctly designed 3/8" steel mount less than 8" long will have

     

    I hear ya Grumpy... makes sense. Here is part of my concern... If the brackets are completely ridgid, there should not be any rotational forces on the crossmember. But, if the offset brackets were allowed to flex, that would putting a twisting load on the crossmeber, yes?

    Mechanical Engineers? Modifying JTR Mounts for More Offset/Math Calc.

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Summary...

    If I wanted to offset the standard JTR mounts an additional 2" rearward, what is the necessary material thickness to achieve equivalent rigidity?

     

    Why...

    Today's EMS's commonly allow us to delete the distributor, which is the principal physical limiting factor with respect to engine location. Deletion allows a more reward location of the drive-train.

     

    Nitty Gritty...

    The JTR brackets offset the drivetrain rearward 3.5". If I wanted to increase that to 5.5", 57% increase center-center, I would need to increase the bracket thickness from .3125" to ???

     

    Knowing that any material, doubled in thickness, results in 8x rigidity (increases with the cube, correct?), increasing the thickness to .375" should more than cover it with a 73% gain in stiffness... 20% greater thickness = 1.2^3 = 1.728.

     

    Am I looking at this right? Considering lateral and vertical loads, does it matter that they are mounted on a 45 degree, or is that 'no factor' in this scenario?

    RPM's Hang at 2,000 FOR A FEW SECONDS

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    My memory is foggy, but isn't there some sort of vac. activated solenoid that keeps the idle from dropping too fast when letting off the throttle?

     

    Yes. I have yet to see one create a few second, 2000 rpm lag, though.

     

    One way to isolate it would be to prop the hood open and rev the motor, if it hangs, try to close the throttle by hand (at the throttle shaft). If it closes easily, its likely friction.

    Who has driven their Z in the snow?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Blizzaks are amazing, I can't believe how good it is. I was ready to buy a truck too.

     

    Blizzaks are the only other studless tire I've had any experience with. I never had the chance to compare them back to back with the Observes, so I have no real opinion on my preference, other than to say that I am equally impressed with both.

     

    On Yasins recommend, once my Observes wear, I'll give those iPikes a hard look.

    Who has driven their Z in the snow?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I've driven S30's in snow on a number of occasions. I despise doing so with any 'street' tire. As suggested, studded snow tires work well. The thing I don't like about them is the noise. We live in an area where snow comes and go's, but its a real hassle changing tires every other week. Between snow's, the studs drive me batty. What I have found to work very well is studless snow tires (currently using Toyo Observes). They're flat impressive, without the noise. The primary downfall is they aren't much help on solid ice, whereas studded tires help significantly. When the roads turn to ice, I stay home.

    Homemade sbc fuel injection?

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    One of the least expensive proven options I'm aware of is an LT1 intake conversion... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128507

     

    Also, consider having a look at the Holley Stealth Ram at around $310 for base and plenum... http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=835917&postcount=4

     

    At the rear, its the same height as a TPI manifold, and we know those fit in S30's. Clearance *may* be an issue at the front... might have to get creative :wink:

    Anyone has a REAL R200 CLSD???

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I don't personally know of any Datsun people re-ramping, but its somewhat common in other circles.

     

    Just tossing in my dos pesos... a re-shim is not equivalent to a ramp change. If you have specific reasons for a ramp change, have at it. I would caution that you understand what it is you're trying to accomplish before going down that road.

    Hello everyone

    in Wolf3D

    Posted

    they could be selling the new version to new customers first before they ship to exsisting ones which makes no sense but ya never know

     

    Absolutely not.

     

    I've been promised one of the first ones off the line, and that is earmarked for KTM.

    How do I wire this thing? HELP!

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    On the HEI cap is a terminal labeled "Bat". This needs to have a good 12v source in start/run. Another terminal will be labeld "tach"... goes to the blue tach feed wire.

     

    A one wire alternator... um, wire it to the positive side of the battery with appropriate gauge for the amperage.

     

    The above is an abridged edition. If you want more detail, feel free to support JTR by purchasing the conversion manual... https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/OrderingBooks.html

     

    ....or feel free to use our built in search engine. It finds posts like this... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=81825

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125970

     

    Also, no one can respond to you in the members projects forums. I moved your thread the appropriate sub-forum.

    First F20C swap?

    in Other Engines

    Posted

    EDIT: You might want to PM 240Hoke, I don't think he spent more on his VQ motor than he would have for an LS1. Although he found his motor locally from a case of somebody wreaking a Z on a test drive.

     

    I pointed Z2000 to a VQ35 w/ 6-speed, for a smokin deal. I just didn't want to jack the thread.

    FI Vs. Carburetor...What should I do???

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    Mike,

     

    I think you're on the right track starting out with the carb. Get your car somewhat sorted, and when you have time, *maybe* consider EFI. I say maybe because, if its a track only car, the RPM and load ranges are comparatively narrow and a proper carb should serve you well. JM is right about fuel slosh. Some 4 barrel carbs deal with that better than others. I'm not the one to point you in the right direction there... I gave up on carbs many years ago. Maybe hit up OX for that one?

     

    EFI is relatively straight forward once the foundation sinks in. In my opinion, starting from scratch, basic EFI is easier to grasp for most people. BUT, going all out is a real time commitment. Considering the time it takes choosing a system that meets your needs, installing it reliably, learning its interface (very different brand to brand), and optimizing the tune... you probably wont accomplish all the above in less than 200 hours. Its not hard, just consuming.

    If an Admin asks you to follow the rules...

    in Announcements

    Posted

    The Administration has rules in effect to help this forum run smoothly and professionally. They are not negotiable. Part of an Admins job is upholding those rules.

     

    If an Admin/Moderator reminds you of the rules or asks you to adhere to them, we expect cooperation. If you thumb your nose, action will result... there is no reason to be surprised.

     

    Thank You,

    HZ Staff

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