RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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I feel your pain. I was just offered $800 for a complete, essentially stock 2-door 510. It has a recently popped HG but otherwise complete, unmolested, and in working order. Besides, who buy's a 510 to keep an L16 unless its a restoration? It has one localized rust issue, otherwise structurally rust free and mostly straight. I was asking $1750. I fully admit $1750 is a little 'rich', but c'mon... $800??? I'll crush it before I let it go for $800. Arrrrrgh.
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On the way to my granddaughters Bday party, we spotted Santa on his Harley...
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Its a cheap option for the guys who can just bolt it in, not worth making a setup around if it requires any custom fab.
My hero
I couldn't have said it better myself! -
I did a little poking around... it looks like it was 'supposed' to have one. All this does is reinforce my distaste for viscous.
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If my J30 had one it was 'nonexistent'.
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My J30 didn't have it.
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j30?
As I understand it, a "J30t" has vlsd.
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Ron, I hope you did not mind my little interjection regarding the coil type.
No worries
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I'm not aware of a direct aftermarket replacement. Your link 'suggest' they are, but the picture shows a different mount orientation (and there are various connector styles). Its common for Summit to use a generic picture, though.
However, I'm not convinced you need an aftermarket coil. I know of a chap running 1500hp endurance V8's with OE coils. Thats 187hp per/cyl. So, if you keep your L under 1100 hp, you should be good to go
I frequently pick them up at the JY and they can also be purchased from a dealer. Gilbert Chevrolet has the best prices so far.
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Trumpet,
I believe you told me you intended to use MS. May I suggest you do a little research on wire brand first? I believe you'll find a large number of people have run into MS resets running some of the other popular wires. Magnecor has superior suppression qualities and have proven to be consistently compatible with MS's sensitivity to EMF/EMI. Do some searching on this forum and you'll find Magnecor has cured resets on more than one occasion.
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Last summer, I was in one of those fancy Thai restaurants, where they cut them up like garnish. Paying more attention to my company then my plate, stuffed one in my mouth and commenced chomping. All I'm going to tell you is that I was not very damn pleased ... for a long time. I'm still seeing a therapist for the emotional trama
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Any info on if you are able to use this setup with megasquirt?
Yes...
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Goes to show ya... never drink & type
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Finally released, our exclusive coil mounts and custom Magnecor wires...
Please read this post in its entirety before ordering. If there is anything unclear, please ask.
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Block mounting points...
Made from 3/16" 6061 Aluminum.
Mount Price: $99 shipped anywhere in the US.
If outside the US, PM for pricing.
Available Magnecor wires...
KV85 Competition 8.5mm, RED, Part #65285
ELECTROSPORTS SERIES 8mm, BLUE, Part #60285
ELECTROSPORTS SERIES 7mm, BLACK, Part #67285
Order direct @ (248) 471-9505
1. Price does not include coils.
2. Mount will require rerouting heater hose.
3. The mounts come with a light DA sanded finish as shown in photo 2. They are ready for paint, or polishes with minimal effort.
4. Included hardware... stand-offs and S.S. bolts for mounting to the block. All extra hardware not included.
5. Coil Part Number: 12558693, or 2000 Chev. Suburban 5.3L
6. Connector Part Number: 12582189 (connectors only come in batches of 4, as a sub-harness)
7. Coils known to work with Wolf3D, Haltech, Motec, J&S, and Megasquirt. It's up to you to know if and how they will work with your specific EMS.
Coil Schematic...
Pin A... can be grounded to the block, but my recommendation is the head.
Pin B... needs to be grounded at the same location as the ECU.
Pin C... to ignition channel.
Pin D... provide a good 12 volt power source (with key 'on').
Begin with 3.5ms dwell. Test and tune for best ignition performance.
For ordering send a PM or post here.
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Cheers everyone, it's 6:15PM EST and I raise a glass to all!
I'll drink to that
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Cool. I'm not alone
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Or I could just take the thing off and see how it handles without one at all.
In my LT1Z I ran without a rear bar most of the time. I prefer it gone in most conditions. Corner exit bite and compliance is improved more than the 'rotate-ability' is reduced.
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I owned a Honda once. Great car. Did what it was designed to do very well. Nothing more. Nothing less.
This thread is teetering on pointlessness, so let's keep it light, shall we?
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As a mobile datalogger, I'm quite content with the Innovate LM1.
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Very sorry to hear that.
I don't know what your end goals are for the car, but my first thought is to remove the stock harness entirely and install another. I'm afraid trying to fix one thing at a time is going to result in serious tail chasing and possibly another fire.
Good luck,
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Thats a Beaut.
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As this is HZ, 'alternative solutions' are the name of the game. However, those items linked would still require fitment (and further solutions), whereas JTR mounts are a bolt on. Not better. Not worse. Just a different approach.
I couldn't have said it better myself!
L6 DIS Brackets (LSX Coils) Now Available
in Vendor's Forum
Posted
One method is to put a Tee fitting in the lower rad. hose, near the frame rail. Run the heater hose along the rail and up the firewall to the existing heater outlet. The yellow ZX in my first post is done that way.
Another method I saw was a tight brass 90 elbow in place of the existing straight nipple. It pointed down and 'just' cleared coil #1.
There are other options as well... being creative is what its all about, yes?