RTz

Judgement day is just around the corner... July 14th is scheduled dyno day for the above manifold.

You are correct, a better option would be a cold air intake. There are a couple reasons this car was done this way. If you'll notice, the engine compartment has been completely smoothed and painted. The removal of the AFM leaves an unattractive bracket. Due to time constraints and this car being a show car first, it was done this way, in part to hide the bracket (sits directly under the filter). Next winter's project is to relocate the battery, remove all excess bracketry, and re-spray the compartment. I might argue that, depending on where your 'at' right now. If you are currently injected and using an OE manifold, you'll notice power dropping off pretty seriously by 5500 rpm. The manifold is the leading contributor. Runners are *tiny*. Even on a bone stock L28, this manifold would wake up the top end. A couple 'gotcha's'... you will need some sort of programmable EMS as the factory L-jet would be 'lost'. Valves *will* float with stock springs. Right now, this motor, with a mild cam and matching springs, is pulling to 7300rpm... where its beginning to float valves. This manifold wants to spin! See where I'm going with this?... the issue will become one of mechanical limitations. If you address those, even on a stock cam and head, I believe there is plenty of room to justify a manifold upgrade. Just my dos pesos.

I can't speak for Justin, but there is a possibility that I will make a few, with some minor cosmetic and performance enhancements. Here's the catch... they won't be inexpensive. To be profitable, $1200 to $1300 is looking like a realistic figure. Still game?

As Justin has it drawn, its wide open for any type of flange. I built a Ford Crown Vic. flange, at 65mm. Bolts on in a similar fashion to OE (vertically oriented throttle shaft, though).... Keep in mind, one of the things that make this manifold work is the TB size. Not from a CFM perspective, rather an emphasis on a smooth transition from the TB to the inner walls of the plenum.

With Wolf V4, the only option was hard cutting fuel. Wolf V500 is a bit more refined. The primary choices are Hard Cut Fuel, Hard Cut Ignition, Both, or soft cutting ignition. The soft cut can be tuned and staged with a hard cut. For example, you can cut '4 in 8', cutting every second event. '6 in 8' would be approaching a hard cut, and '1 in 8' the opposite.

I'm leaving up to the Divine. I have listed it pretty steep... maybe it won't sell. The downside is, if I keep it, it will hinder my Datsun development. Thank you. Its one of my favorites as well. Its a terrific handling car AND a realistic daily driver. Tough combination to beat.

I may have missed it, but somehow I was under the assumption you were going to use an aftermarket ECU? A vacuum line to the regulator is not mandatory. There are benefits but, most often, its not a *requirement*... depends on the specific 'build'. Not with a standalone (and factored in up front). Yup... if you don't plan in advance, but it sounds like you're the kind of guy to do just that. Not really. Resolution helps. I've run monster injectors on small engines. With the right EMS, its realistic. Because thats not the right answer Where are you right now? You're down to physical fuel delivery, correct? This is a small hurdle. Tell us more about your objectives and maybe the collective wisdom of HZ will save the day

It would seem that way. However, the occasions I've used it, were in fact, sharply focused dents, less than .125" dia. In reality, I suppose it depends on the guy doing the work... just like anything else.

Without seeing, its hard to say, but it sounds resonable. I've had great success with paintless dent removal.

Great! For catalytic equipped cars. Check the switch at the E-brake handle.

This 280zt has A/C... http://home.comcast.net/~jgkurz/z/album/index.html He's a member here... jgkurz. PM him if you have any questions.

Yes... with key on, hazards off, the GY wire at the flasher should be 'hot'.

Below is a schematic of '78 turn signals. Notice that power distribution is separate from the Hazards (two separate fuses and flashers). Turn signal power is routed through the hazard switch (so the hazards can interrupt turn signals). Then through the flasher. Then the combination switch, and out to the bulbs. I would start at the fuse, and follow the above path. There are no relays in this system. The only thing you should hear is the flasher.

Its time to sell the BMW. Last night I took a couple of final pictures, for the ad. and sentiment... . . . .

...You mean like clowns in a circus??? OTM: Your prices just went up.

...Hell is RED too...

See what I mean?!?!?!

Dear SuperDan, I respectfully ask you to revoke Braap's Admin status. He's impossible these day's... won't talk to me, and when he does, its COLD. Spouts off "Red vs. Blue" and "Your either with us or against us". I had a talk with his wife to see if she's noticed any change.... she say's he wakes up in the middle of the night, sweeting and shouting "BAN HIM". I'm really concerned. Sincerely, Ron

Pile?.. I have no pile... my junk is spread OUT....

A few adjustments to my new home...

Does this mean we can't be friends? Seriously Chief, Congrats

Tommy, I have had trouble with zx tachs and aftermarket EMS's. What I normally use is the MSD tach adapter 8920. Assuming Haltech can output a 12v square wave (typical) it should work for you. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=msd+8920&x=0&y=0&N=+115&searchinresults=false

No statebound S30's got an O2. 5/16". Its not just the injector ports... the bolt pattern is different. Loosely speaking, you could say that about any EFI system This '78 EFI schematic may help, Alsil... One thing to note is that it uses an oil pressure switch for the fuel pump. '75 and '76 used a switch integral to the AFM, '77 and '78 use a specific oil pressure switch. If you're truly looking for "Barebones", in most cases, you can delete the cold start valve, thermo-time, and altitude switch.... and if you're really bent, the air regulator can go as well (fast idle). As I mentioned in your crosspost, you'd probably be better off with a Maxima system.

Its an AFM (air flow meter) You'll also need the water temp sensor and TPS. Not absolutely necessary BUT you'll pick up air pockets when the fuel level is less than full. Its annoying and hard on the pump. A later tank is the easiest but a surge tank can work as well. The downfall to a late tank is that it doesn't fit quite right... they moved one of the strap locations slightly. I've done it but its a little tacky. This is true. You'd have to machine your head to accept the EFI, or swap heads. I'm purely an EFI guy, however if you sent your SU's to Z therapy, they could probably improve your performance and milage substantially. Couple that with a good electronic ignition and 5 speed and you might meet your goals. Biggest thing to watch out for is the connectors... they're so old now that that most of them are broken and corroded. With good connections, you'll find the old L-Jet to be very reliable and consistent. Another issue to be aware of is that a "Z" EFI system is tuned for an L28. Putting it on an L24 is going to take a LOT of tweaking to get it 'right'. You'd probably be better off pulling a Maxima system. Be aware that a terrific running system takes time... don't expect to toss it on and get peak perfomance.