billseph

Yeah I've picked up mag style lug nuts at autozone before...I recall them being like 2 or 3 bucks a piece.

Just to clarify you can't just use ANY L header in ANY L head...square port headers can go on square OR round port heads, round port headers can go on ONLY heads with round ports. To the OP, as long as you go by what I just said, you'll be fine (with regards to the exhaust portion)

I've got several parts you're needing as well. I'll PM you some specifics.

To answer your second question, no...that area of the harness (I see coil/tacho labels) is not at all where you should hook up your fuel pump relay. You may also be confusing the terms "fuel pump relay" and "EFI relay"...my harness only had the original "EFI relay" and I had to buy a fuel pump relay separately (to receive a signal from pin 16 on the ECU (blue wire with red strip) to turn on the fuel pump)

Maybe it's just me, but FYI when I click your link it takes me to a discussion about weatherstripping.

I've got several of the things you're interested in...everything but the ECU actually. I'll PM you.

It is...I need updates. I really wanna see how that hatch sill installation goes. I've had mine sitting around for over a year and need some motivation.

I searched "gated shifter" cuz I was remebering this thread... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/63274-round-2-anyone-want-cnc-parts/page__fromsearch__1 Along with the other search results it looks like this would have to be a one off and would be kinda silly in our S30 cars because of the short shift throw due to the shifter location in the console. I know I was sure bummed when I found out it was going nowhere.

Are you wanting aftermarket adjustable front and rear control arms?

Since you've got the stripes I think you should match the hood to the rest of the car...black scoop would look good with that. A red stripe down the middle of the scoop might look goofy. Put a pic facing the front of the car with the scoop set on the striped hood...I want a visual, cuz I love racing stripes and those scoops are friggin' badass!

Hello HybridZ. I just had to share my dumb Z related mistake for the day. I've been tidying up the wiring harness on my L28ET swapped 240Z with a JWT 450HP computer and mods...Anyways I had the car running okay finally and was really enjoying hearing it finally running again (been a mess for a while). Now the mistake...I had the harness somewhat haphazardly arranged in the engine bay since I'd be taking it out shortly to remove unneeded sensor plugs and doing a partial wire tuck. After everything got warmed up and I'd revved her up a few times, the car abruptly shut off and seconds later I smelled burning wire insulation and then came the smoke. YIIIIIIIIKES!! Unplugged the ECU (was sitting on the fender thankfully, turned the key off, and yanked off anything connected to the battery. PHEW, let everything cool off after verifying the (near) fire was over and as far as I can deduce it looks like the loom heading over to the EFI relay with the CHTS and knock sensor wires in it (as well as POWER wires) had managed to work it's way over the the downpipe and melted and shorted. FACEPALM...I guess my wire tuck work will be coming sooner than later now Thankfully it looks like that area of the harness is all that's been affected...only about 9 wires. Lesson for today...secure your wiring up out of harms way. LOL.

I've had mine redone in the past, I think for about $70 for all 3 IIRC.

I've got one off a running car. I'll PM you.

Alright I found what I was lookin for. A big NO, and a couple other sites seemed to essentially confirm this info... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/71609-n42-header-on-a-n47-head/

Just wanted to check in with you guys to see if there are any disadvantages of putting a round port header on a square port head? I know (well I think I know) they bolt up, but will this mis-application be bad (for performance or potential exhaust leaks)? Head is an N42 on an N42 block that's mated to an automatic trans in a 72 240Z I'm thinking about buying and putting headers on.

Yep you are in need of an 82-83 turbo oil pump/distributor shaft. I don't have one...just clarifying for you.

Reading you're update and wanted to let you know that the hatch and door locks can be re-keyed. Had all 3 matched to the ignition key on my old 240Z for a grand total of like $50-75. It wasn't much when considering you'll be able to lock your car. Nice build by the way.

CAS---Crank Angle Sensor. The 4 wires coming out of the dizzy are what I'm referring to. And yes..they'll end up going to the ECU, or ground...depends on which wire. I'm at work now so I can't look at my car, or diagrams I have printed out...otherwise I could essentially just tell you exactly. Keep at it for now, I had to spend several hours looking at and thinking about the wiring diagrams, and I was a rookie, so it can be done Hope you get it soon. I'll take a look at my wiring diagrams later, but hopefully you'll have her fired up by then. Oh and laptop in the garage...been there done that technology is soooo helpful.

+1 on liking the build, and I'm glad I was able to help out getting the strut housing for you DAMN SPINDLE PINS!!

Good to know you have the proper harness and ECU. The HEI has no wire that goes to the dizzy. The HEI is connected only to the coil, ground, and ECU...as stated, the FSM will show you exactly which pins on the ECU that the wires coming out of the dizzy go to. You gotta look at the FSM to get all the wires hooked up right. I have the HEI swap too, because my ignitor was not working. I was having a "no spark" situation as well with motor till I went with the HEI...figure out where those CAS wires go and I bet you'll be in business.

Thanks...this is the info I was looking for, and losing the vacuum effect (that the stock routing of the valve cover vent provides...even under boost) is what I was concerned about...just needed an explanation of the benefits/drawbacks of. I mean...with the setup I had in mind the engine would essentially be entirely sealed (no PCV or valve cover vent) unless you were not in boost...so I will definitely run the valve cover vent to a pipe pre-turbo (same as stock) once I setup the intercooler piping. Also just out of curiousity, does anyone know at what pressure the PCV valve acts as a check valve...is it just ANY positive pressure that shuts it?? And thank you guys for the replies

The wires you're referring to are for the Crank Angle Sensor inside the turbo dizzy. They plug into the turbo engine harness and go to the ECU from there of course. The NA zx's did not have a crank angle sensor so if you're using an NA harness them I assume you'll have no place to plug it in. The FSM for the 82-83 turbo zx shows exactly where each of the 4 wires for the CAS go to (ground or ECU) I haven't done an NA to turbo swap...but I have swapped an L28ET into my S30 so I know the CAS communicating with the ECU is CRITICAL to getting spark. My limited knowledge based on your post leads me to believe that you perhaps do not have a turbo ECU and/or wiring harness, but I'm just guessing about that. Download the FSM from the xenon website and look at the wiring diagrams for the ECU pinout and you'll find all your answers.

I've got a simple question about a hose routing thought I'm having. For background info purposes I am diagnosing vacuum leaks and doing some general tidying up of the engine bay while planning the routing of a future intercooler setup in my L28ET swapped 240Z. So my question is in regards to routing of the PCV and valve cover vent. I'd like to put a "tee" fitting in line with the PCV hose (between the crankcase and 1-way PCV valve on the intake manifold). I'd like to run the valve cover vent hose to this tee (instead of pre-turbo to the AFM boot as it is run stock) Does anyone see this as problematic?? It seems like "no big deal" to me, but I wanna make sure I'm not doing something wrong (obviously the Nissan engineers ran lines the way they did for some reason). My PCV valve seems to be operating perfectly as a check valve...blow through one end and it's open...blow through the other end and it's closed, so I won't be pressurizing anything I shouldn't be when boosting.

Here is what I have if you end up needing it. I'll take it to work today to get the strut out (fingers crossed for being easy).

So why so you need/want more fuel?? Obviously since the turbo injectors supply more fuel than n/a injectors at any given pressure you will be running "richer" across the RPM scale with turbo injectors and a stock n/a ECU.