billseph

I think I've got the strut housing assy you're wanting. I'll have to check in the garage when I get home tonite to make sure I haven't tossed it. Although it's a shame you can't get the spindle pin out This is for a 280Z correct? And is it driver or passenger side?

Here's a thread in which I asked about the same thing. I gathered that all would be fine leaving a bolt head snapped off. I however have not run the turbo yet to verify. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103495-will-i-regret-not-fixing-this/page__pid__973513#entry973513 As for your power goals...the FAQ's have that answered already, and yes 250whp is okay for the stock turbo. If you wanna go higher eventually though then the turbo is not gonna live a long time. May as well save on ceramic coating to purchase a T3/T4 hybrid and be able to have all the (reasonable) power you want in the future. My $0.02

Well I didn't end up going the JB Weld route...just had my machinist bud hook me up with welding the holes shut. My manifold was pretty trashed so he said all the funk that had soaked into the porous cast aluminum was making welding a bit more difficult, but we got it done up nice and ground down all flush . I hope these pics are okay, they looked decent in the preview... You know what the manifold looks like already...here's what happened when I abandoned ship after trying to polish it "as is" These were some of the holes I needed filled. All kinds of sanding, smoothing, drilling, tapping some holes, and all kinds of I'm sure unecessary work went into this thing before coating it with some VHT Wrinkle Plus. A couple more shots for you with most everything mounted up and looking all purdy. Those blockoff plates for EGR, AAC, and other stuff I chose not to use (losing compatibilty of some stuff with JWT 450HP upgrade) are just some pretty frikkin' polished aluminum and turned out very nice. Allen head fasteners all around were totally unecessary, but I think they look SWEET! All in all, it's not show quality and it's not completly shaved, but it looks pretty nice and was fairly easy. I just REALLY hope the wrinkle coat holds up (I'm kinda scared cuz of how close it is to the exhaust manifold...) Hope to see a few pics when you're finished with yours Neveragain55.

Do you need the dizzy/oil pump shaft combo, or just the dizzy by itself? If just the dizzy, then I have one.

Chill man, not trying to buy 'em out from under you...just expressing interest, you obviously have first priority since it's your thread.

Shoot, I want 'em to.

I've got one. And you've got a PM.

I gave up in trying to polish my intake and am going to partially shave and paint instead. Any of you guys have recommendations on paint? I did VHT wrinkle (350 degree) on my valve cover and it turned out great...will this level of heat resistance suffice sitting right above a turbo with the stock heat shield still in place?? Also I don't wanna be too cheesy plugging the small holes on the side of the intake (from where the metal vacuum lines were mounted) but I can't weld aluminum...sooooo could the JB weld putty be used?? What do you all think?? I would think it should hold up fine, but maybe my hopes are too high. Edit: Wow I thought about how silly the heat question was...fresh air is going to be rushing through that intake and keep it below 350 degrees (well it better be less than 350 ) I think I'll use the JB weld putty too in that case...unless someone talks me out of it

You may need to speed the idle up a couple (or few) hundred RPM to help the car to stay on when it's first cranked up...that's what all that stuff is there to help out with. But guys with the shaved manifolds say that a good running L28 with the idle bumped up a bit will run just fine without all those devices.

The "air regulator" is for regulating the idle air mix...not anything to do with the cabin heater. It's just an idle control device (a big ugly one...haha) I'm doing the same to mine (stripping off EGR and idle conrtrol devices). Will end up making block off plates like in your pics. I'm attempting to sand all the rough sand casting though to polish it too...got most all the rough stuff down to smooth now (SUCKED!!!) and I'm now working on hand sanding hard to reach areas to end up with hopefully a decent polish job. I'm really wishing I had just blasted it and left the casting (those pics from after blasting look sweet)

Oops.

I received my package of new connectors yesterday Kurk. Hopefully I'll get to assembling them in the next week or so. The clips are so cool and ridiculously easy to use Nice snug fitment too, 100x better than the old junky ones currently on the 30 year old harness.

Got my panels in yesterday...thanks Pete. They were in great condition (no shipping damage). I can't wait to test fit 'em.

Answer to your question in red...no pic, but all this means is to hook it up the 12volt at that end of the harness (where the EFI relay is) and not to do it at the harness end (I assume he means where everything plugs into the ECU) Hope that helped...I just finished up doing this for my first time so it's fresh on my mind. When I'm home later I'll try to help you out on that other question.

That's for A/C controls. I've got one too...just no A/C for it to control

There is no way rust is gonna "prematurely wear" the pulley any appreciable amount. The belt will always be cleaning the new water deposits off anyways. I'm thinking you'd have nothing to worry about pulley-wise...unless you're planning on parking it in a salt water bath between drives...but even then are you gonna be driving the car for the next 300 years???

Yeah man you're kicking' ass on your car. I'm at a much slower pace, but it's getting there. I'd been thinking about piecing the coilover kit together, but TTT having it all together will make it 10x easier for a novice like myself. I'm guessing with the couple hundred extra ponies I'll have that I'll be a tad faster LOL. I just figured what the heck, I'll make my Z stupid quick (for me) My family car is a Lexus IS 350 and that's already gone from fastest car I've ever driven to BLAH...I guess you just get used to it. But the Z being loud and eveything else ought to never get old and always put a grin on your face. I figure I should bust your chops a little a tell you that I'm gonna use a PIPE CUTTER for my strut sectioning LOL it's gonna be a fun project making that cut 8x. Your back and forth in the other thread was fun...I'm tempted to use a chipsaw but I'm in NO hurry so I'll just bust out the pipe cutter.

Cool! I'm gonna go ahead and do the strut housing sectioning and coilover deal like you did pretty much for the sole purpose of adjusting my ride height. I want it low (not slammed) but want to be able to raise it back up if necessary. I had originally just thought "oh I'll just cut the springs" but I got to thinking about it and thought "well I don't wanna cut brand new springs" Really it's only a couple or few hundred more $ to go with the GC setup so after much contemplating, you're build thread made up my mind that I'd go with coilovers. I'm in essentially in the same spot as you with your build. Just gotta finish making all the suspension and underside of the car look pretty then it can go back together (I gotta drop the turbo motor in too after I finish putting all my goodies on it) And I'm dying to start driving the car

Coilovers look sweet all finished up. What length springs did you go with?? (I think you can choose between 8" or 10" right?)

Almost forgot to conclude this. Ignitor was indeed bad. I did the HEI upgrade in lieu of replacing the 280zxt ignitor and that baby fired up on the first crank. The HEI upgrade is a nice cheap fix for now...I'll have to see how it turns out in the long run, but this will be a street car that won't be hanging out in the upper RPM range for extended periods, so I'm assuming the HEI will last. As a side note now that I got the 81 electronics lined out plugging everything in for the JWT 450 modded ECU and doing the minor re-wiring was a piece of cake. I've only got to run it for a couple minutes as of today but I'm loving it already...dying to take it for a spin

Just wanted to add that I have no long-term testing of this HEI upgrade, and I plan to upgrade to a much less cheesy heatsink. Maybe something that looks more like this... http://www.google.com/m/products/catalog?hl=en&q=heatsink&gs_upl=1141l1549l0l4264l4l4l0l1l1l0l467l467l4-1l1l0&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=9765141805864471637&near=Bakersfield,%20CA&sa=X&ei=lEf-TtitKKX42gWvqvytAg&ved=0CGYQ8wIwBg Just something more like a traditional finned heatsink would make me feel better (and possibly look cooler as well )

Hey 91iroc I just had this same problem...after much thinking and research (trust me...a lot of research into cost and availability ) I decided to do the GM HEI upgrade to get spark finally. http://m.zdriver.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27569 There is the link. I had to sign up for zdriver to view the pics which CLEARLY show you exactly what to do and it's working fine so far. For $28 at Autozone I got a unit with a freakin' lifetime warranty so if I burn it up it's FREE to replace...much better than what you'll pay for a new transistor. Other option I looked into was the Z31 turbo coil/ignitor upgrade... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/70824-300zx-turbo-coil-on-a-l28et-pictorial-15minutes/page__fromsearch__1 Which if you could find in a junkyard would be a good value as well. But my personal suggestion is do the HEI upgrade. You've got the link right there and it is super easy, affordable, and it's readily available. There's my $0.02.

Looks sweet! So it looks like a little assembly is required...is this a fairly simple task to accomplish without screwing anything up??

I've got the dizzy you're after (no shaft) available...I could pull it for you within the next week or so. Also I know that there are a few (well at least a couple) in the "For sale" section, that may be ready to ship out right away if you're in a hurry.

^^^ But he's from the land down under^^^