billseph

http://www.xenonz31.com/ECUcodes.html Modes are super easy. Run it in mode 1. Diagnostics are mode 3. If you can't figure it out by reading the link, you can PM me I guess.

Bump. Can't get a reply from Gregmatic or JSM, trying to get in contact with you guys still.

First pic are some plugs you prob won't use (not necessary to run anyways) they're for the vacuum control modulator. Second pic has two grounds I see (the ones with rings) one is for your STOCK (don't know abot hooking up the 240sx unit) TPS (has 3 slots, one will be empty) the other connector is for the some switch that controls the bypass air (not necessary since you're using the 60mm throttle) Last pic is important. The green and brown wires need 12v these are connected to fusible links in stock configuration, the turbo swap guide says to hook them up to the starter + lug. The two prong connector is for your CHTS...important for running as this lets the ECU know how warm te engine is for fuel enrichment purposes. If you're swapping this stuff into a S30 I don't believe the oil pressure sender is compatible. For water temp you'll use your stock S30 wire connected to the sender on your thermostat housing. All that being said.........go to the turbo stickies and read the turbo swap guide, it answers all your questions and if all your components are in working order and you follow the guide to the letter, you'll fire up right away. If its hit first turbo swap, it'll be tricky especially since you're throwing a 60mm TB into the mix on a non-running swap. Good luck. Read the turbo swap guide right away.

^Exactly what I'd recommend too. I just did this a few weeks back, and after several attempts and different orders of operations for installation later, I found that bolting the RT mount to the diff and jacking it up as a unit was best...I did mine along with an R200 swap into an early 240Z as well FUN TIMES!!!!!

Gregmatic and JSM, I've PM'd you both, I'm not sure if my messages are going through though.

FPR location is kinda slick....you're gonna have to run a real long vacuum line to it now though. It's kinda nice to have it all more out of sight by putting it on the firewall somewhere. Sweet build too. I've been taking plenty of mental notes on your process, and the quantity/quality of pics is very helpful...a much more patient man than myself for documenting this whole thing.

Thanks for the heads up. No guarantee that new connectors will fix my intermittent running issues, but they're highly suspect at this point.

Hey there, I need some Z31 ECU connectors. The old 280zxt connectors are not doing their job too well, and I figure some better connectors would be a good investment, seeing as I've replaced all the other EFI connectors with FricFrac's kit. Anyways, I was hoping some of you junkyard aficionados could snag some for me, I'm not very local to any yards, and anytime I've called around for quite a few months I've been told a big NO on Z31's or 300zx's. Thanks for looking guys.

Yes you can, it's the same signal.

Edit

You didn't make any mention of checking the CHTS circuit or sensor which is the biggest raw fuel curve adjustment in the system...lots of threads mention a faulty sensor, or circuit to cause extremely rich conditions. Some say that with the CHTS unplugged that the car will die out from so much fuel being dumped into the system, but mine will run with it unplugged...with it unplugged the ECCS thinks its like -40 something degrees Fahrenheit. Since you're rich all across the board I'd say to verify the resistance at the ECU end first, then all the way back to the sensor (by cyl. 5 spark plug) if it doesn't check out (all in the FSM).

Ah come on man...I wanna hear that beast breathe a little, take it outta the neighborhood and let us hear it scream.

^ Nice first post.

Thanks Xnke, that makes sense as it's another Autometer part... http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Meter/105/2268/10002/-1?parentProductId= I can go ahead and verify this with a bolt I guess right??

Thanks for the info NewZed, 1/8 for oil and 3/8 for water were indeed correct. Stumbled across this thankfully http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Lancer-EVO-18-NPT-Oil-Temp-Adaptor_p_54.html Searching elsewhere online, I wasn't able to find a reducer like this anywhere. This looks like a nice solution...hopefully all goes well. 1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT female is actually an Autometer part, so that was an easy find.

Anybody know off hand what size threads the water temp sender and oil pressure sender are for L28ET engine. I figure it'll be BSPT so I'd like to get the proper adapter for the Autometer electrical sender/gauges I'm ordering. I understand that NPT will not seal properly into BSPT threads, so I'd rather not risk getting a leak from using the wrong fittings. Thanks guys.

As far as the HEI module, of you wanna just test it out and see if you get spark, you don't even need the heatsink attached, just hook up the 4 spade connectors to where they go and make sure that one of the holes in the module is grounded. 10 minute job dude. Then if it runs, make all the wiring look pretty and solidly mount up the module/heatsink. I wanna hear you report back that you got that thing RUNNING.

So have you wired in the HEI module yet? It's such a simple task and if your original Nissan ignitor is bad then you're not gonna be getting ANY SPARK no matter what components you replace. Seriously, if you haven't wired it in yet, then do it. You have all the stuff already, why pull your hair out and throw $$ at parts if you haven't wired that up yet??

Try this guy, hasn't been active for a while though... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90594-custom-asna-twin-stack-exhaust-any-inlet-diameter/ Edit: oops just noticed you already tried this guy.

PM'd ya dude.

The resistor pack is for '81 only. You won't have them with your setup...just hurry up and get that HEI module wires in.

Get the HEI in before you go stressing about the dizzy being bad. You may be pleasantly surprised after the install. I know I was kicking my self once my swap finally started up, woulda never guessed the ignitor woulda gone bad...but the HEI did the trick.

I had a bad ignitor that caused me major headaches...do the GM HEI swap in lieu of an expensive factory ignitor. Here's how to do it... http://m.zdriver.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27569&styleid=19 I think the info and pics are elsewhere as well, I forget if you have to be a member to view the pics in the link.

Looks familiar Glad you got it finished, I've been patiently waiting to see your finished product. Now to see how it holds up longterm...

I had to "make" the ignition portion of my harness while cleaning up a PO's mess. Also during this process I discovered that my ignitor was not working, so I followed the same instructions that NewZed posted up and once finished the engine fired right up. It looks semi confusing, in those drawings, but it really does work. Is this swap from an 81zxt or an 82-83zxt. Reason I ask is cuz mine's an 81 and there are small differences that are noted in the turbo swap guide (mainly having to do with the "plug" for the ignition harness) I believe it's been said already, but the ignitor is on the coil bracket itself, so if you don't have that, you either need to find one (which is gonna cost $$$ and time) or head to Autozone or wherever and get the GM HEI module for like $25 and some female spade connectors and wire that in. My suggestion is get the GM HEI module and do what the pictures tell you to do.