Lone Star 1

Want take my post

Why do I keeping getting this message 80 percent of the times I try to post? I'll spend time typing, and then summit my post, and get this Invalid session message. I have just about stoped trying to post.

It's always something. I need to get a drivers side halfsaft. I think I have a bad U-joint. Good luck to every one. LS1's rule.

Ok I need the name and phone number of the local Z-car salvage yardin the DFW area.

Does any one have the name and phone number of the local salavge yard here in the DFW area.

Yes the noise settles when I touch the brakes. Whats the best way to chech the u-joints. I Don't guess Nissan would warrent thost 30 year joints, I was only putting 325 ft/lb of tork on them for the last year.

Not the antenna bracket, it's already been removed. I replaced the shocks last weekend, but this rattle started a month ago. It's just getting worse and more frequent. Can the strut mount make this kind of rattle and still look good and fill solid when I had it out replacing the strut?

Just had the wheel rebalanced, not the problem. Can a wheel bearing make this kind of sound. I'll check that bracket right now. thanks guys.

Not sure where to post this. Latley when I hit about 70 MPH I hear a loud rattle develop just behine the drivers side in the quarter panel area. As I decelerate it get louder untill about 60 or so, then goes away. Some times it remines me of the sound a tire thats comming apart makes. Its getting worse, and now sometimes I hear it as slow as 30 MPH. Any ideas?

Hey I just got a E-Mail that said because I was watching this topic I could click on "Http//www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/ viewtopic.php?=132874#132874". I was just wondering is this something the new system does or is this a hoax email?

I,ll have to go by and see how things are progressing. I know you must be getting ants in your pants by now, with all the LS1's track times showing up. Good luck, and see you soon.

Gary here with a 73 z with a LS1

Is it finnished?

Get some BF Goodrich 235 R60 15 DR's on that car now. I have 215 R60 14 DR's. Stock LS1 4L60 E with a 3500 Rpm stall and ran a 12.014 114 MPH on a 1.80 60 ft. I think my car is 150 LB's heaver. My computor was shifting at 5200 RPM's. I think If I can set it to shift at 6200 RPM's and get a little better 60 ft I'll see 11.xx's. My best 60 ft time so for is 1.74. Try to to leave the line quite then stand on it and just shift. I'll say 12.95, 114 MPH till you start getting it hooked up off the line.

I looked all around that nopi site but could not find the Axxis ulitimate pads. Any body know the part #?

Who carries this brand pad? Any local auto parts stores like Auto Zone?

I bought 240Z in 1972, and I don't remember any dealer installed AC option. I had my AC installed by Frigiking, (spelling)here in Dallas. AC worked great and looked factory installed. Mine also had full carpet.

My LS1 was a GM crate motor, and the EMC was an off road type. When I tryed to have it LS1 edited, the program would not work be cause the first thing LS1 edit looks for is a Vin #. I took my EMc to the dealer to have a Vin# flashed onto it, but scanners said wrong peramitters. I had to buy a new EMC and have it flashed with an approperate Vin# fo a 98 auto LS1.Then LS1 edit worked, but could not turn off such thing as in tank pressure sensors, so now I have a SED light all the time.

John that LS1 powered Z is mine and I bought the 4L60E trany from Mark. He shipped it to me and everything was just like he said. I have sent him many E-mails and he has always been kind and helpful with his responces. His link section was how I found Hybrid Z.

Try Mark at WWW.hpsalvage.com com. He's a supper nice guy and won't lead you wrong. Not to far to drive either.

I also am running 215 60 R14 BF Goodrich DR's. I had heard they were bad in the wet, so I was very careful at first, but have found them to stick better than my street tires in the wet. At the track I am almost dead hooked, and run 1.74 60's. I wish I could find some 15" pansport whells with 15 to 20 mm pos offset so I could run 235 60 R15 BFG's. I have to leave the line at 700RPM now to keep traction. If I try to raise the rpm, then the tires will spin a couple of revelotion causing 1.9 60's

Well congrats are in order! It's good to here that another LS1 powered Z is on the road. It took me about 2 months to get mine on the road, but that was working on it 24/7. Mine is an A4 with 3.36 LSD and it runs through the gears pretty fast with just casual driving. I Can't wait to see what kind of HP you make through that T56. I've installed a 3500 RPM Yank stall covertor, and was having trouble with it hitting the rev limitor on WOT shifts. So i had it LS1 edited , but i was low on trans fluid and did't know it. Now it shifts at 5200 RPM.I ran it at Ennis the other night and ran a 12.134 113MPH. I'm hoping to get in the 11's when I get it shifting at 6200RPM. Get it finished and but some good rubber out back. See you later!

Way to wide

What team and age does your kid play for? Does he paly for Borger Thunder?

My thinking was that by not having to reinvent the wheel, by building exhaust manifolds that would place a single turbo somewhere in the already tight engin bay, I could could use the existing exhaust system, and mount the turbo in an accesable area. Then route the boosted air back to the engin through an ovaled pipe inside the car mounted flat to the floor pan under the passenger seat and back out into the fender well area, and up and into the engin bay. With piping being about 1' by 5" ovalshaped an disapating heat by contact with the floor pan and shear lenth. The car already makes 320 RWHP a turnes 1.7 60' times, with my best ET at 12.134. So a little lag would not matter, but if it was so great as to not improve my 1/4 times by one to one and a half seconds then this would not be something I would be interested in doing. I also thought this would keep the strain to the drive line at aceptible levels. Thanks for your opinouns, and again I'm just thinking outloud, and looking at my options. I know I could buy a heads and cam pakage, and install headers for about $4500. This would put me at about 420 RWHP and low 11's. Or the cheapest way to HP N2O, but I really like the thought of a boosted LS1, then maybe later heads and cam to lower the CR. Just dreaming!!!