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HybridZ

75&78Z

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About 75&78Z

  • Birthday 05/30/1958

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    N Indiana

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  1. CODERED love the look and stance of your Z! I noticed you are runing Falken Azenis tires. Did you go with 275/40 rear and 255/40 fronts?
  2. Just read the article. The photo effects give your car a gritty urban commando look. Very nice and congatulations!
  3. Out of curiosity what were the quality issues you had with the Unlimited products hood? (ie fit, size, conture, quality of the design/workmanship)
  4. TR The circlip grooves of the left and right side axle gears need to be positioned towords the center of the carrier. Looking at your picture it appears all you need to do is flip over the axle gears 180 degrees. In other words dont swap them just flip them. That is how I assembled mine. When I test fit the axles they snapped in fine. Also maybe a dumb question but did you install the spacer between the washer stacks? With all the washers and spacer in place I found that I had about .090 of spring compression when boltng the carrier halves together. That inturn placed enough pressure against the axle gears to where I cannot move them side to side at least not with my fingers. It just sounds like you have a lot play so somethig is out of place or missing?
  5. Excellent color. I like the grey flares as they seem go well with the grey in the wheel spokes.
  6. Panda z posted the following in the Fabrication/Welding section but did not get any responses: "Hey, just wondering if anyone has any ideas, suggestions, examples on the best & most effective places to gusset & seam/stich an early S30 (late '71)? I was thinking about adding gussets to the chassis rail to firewall area and stitching or spoting the F&R strut towers and chassis rails. (i already have a full cage) Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!" Are there particular areas on an S30 that would give a major improvement in body stiffness, if seam/stitch welded, as oposed to welding every accessible seam?
  7. Oh, sorry for the confusion. We are my son and me. Not a bussiness or anything like that. Just you typical father and son, going on four year, car project, bonding type thing. The idea was to try and save a little bit of money by building our own mounts.
  8. We knew that the power train of the RB engine/transmision package was a bit longer than the L package so yes, the end of the RB transmision will be closer to the differential and in turn require a shorter drive shaft. My goal when I started building custom mounts, was to try to get the motor as low and far back in the chassis as possible (as Mckinney does) and to also keep the motor as close as possible to the same vertical and horizontal plane as the original motor/transmission, relitive to the chassis, to hopefully help prevent drivetrain vibration issues.
  9. As far as the fore/aft engine angle I would think that you should match the angle of the RB engine transmision assembly to what the original L series was mounted at, relative to some body feature such as the door sills. In other word use the body of the car as refrence and not the road/ground. As far as offset I would think that you would want the RB transmisions output shaft/yoke to be positioned as close as posible to the original position of the L series transmision output shaft/yoke (left/right/up/down) relative to the trans tunnel. Once the engine/transmision package is mounted properly relative to the body you would then verify that the differentials position is within spec relitive to the engine/transmision package. Keep in mind this assumes that the body is not horribly tweaked in which case you will probibly have other issues as well. This also assumes that you have taken these measurments when the original drive train was in the car or that you can get them from anouther Z. I'm sure there are other ways to align the engine/transmision to the diff but this is the aproach we are taking on our project.
  10. How about this.... http://www.racinglab.com/rota-cap-rb.html
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