75&78Z

CODERED love the look and stance of your Z! I noticed you are runing Falken Azenis tires. Did you go with 275/40 rear and 255/40 fronts?

Austin, Are the front tires 245/45 or 245/40?

Austin, Are the front tires 245/45 or 245/40?

Just read the article. The photo effects give your car a gritty urban commando look. Very nice and congatulations!

Out of curiosity what were the quality issues you had with the Unlimited products hood? (ie fit, size, conture, quality of the design/workmanship)

TR The circlip grooves of the left and right side axle gears need to be positioned towords the center of the carrier. Looking at your picture it appears all you need to do is flip over the axle gears 180 degrees. In other words dont swap them just flip them. That is how I assembled mine. When I test fit the axles they snapped in fine. Also maybe a dumb question but did you install the spacer between the washer stacks? With all the washers and spacer in place I found that I had about .090 of spring compression when boltng the carrier halves together. That inturn placed enough pressure against the axle gears to where I cannot move them side to side at least not with my fingers. It just sounds like you have a lot play so somethig is out of place or missing?

Excellent color. I like the grey flares as they seem go well with the grey in the wheel spokes.

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Panda z posted the following in the Fabrication/Welding section but did not get any responses: "Hey, just wondering if anyone has any ideas, suggestions, examples on the best & most effective places to gusset & seam/stich an early S30 (late '71)? I was thinking about adding gussets to the chassis rail to firewall area and stitching or spoting the F&R strut towers and chassis rails. (i already have a full cage) Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!" Are there particular areas on an S30 that would give a major improvement in body stiffness, if seam/stitch welded, as oposed to welding every accessible seam?

I'd go with the gold also, a classic look.

Oh, sorry for the confusion. We are my son and me. Not a bussiness or anything like that. Just you typical father and son, going on four year, car project, bonding type thing. The idea was to try and save a little bit of money by building our own mounts.

We knew that the power train of the RB engine/transmision package was a bit longer than the L package so yes, the end of the RB transmision will be closer to the differential and in turn require a shorter drive shaft. My goal when I started building custom mounts, was to try to get the motor as low and far back in the chassis as possible (as Mckinney does) and to also keep the motor as close as possible to the same vertical and horizontal plane as the original motor/transmission, relitive to the chassis, to hopefully help prevent drivetrain vibration issues.

As far as the fore/aft engine angle I would think that you should match the angle of the RB engine transmision assembly to what the original L series was mounted at, relative to some body feature such as the door sills. In other word use the body of the car as refrence and not the road/ground. As far as offset I would think that you would want the RB transmisions output shaft/yoke to be positioned as close as posible to the original position of the L series transmision output shaft/yoke (left/right/up/down) relative to the trans tunnel. Once the engine/transmision package is mounted properly relative to the body you would then verify that the differentials position is within spec relitive to the engine/transmision package. Keep in mind this assumes that the body is not horribly tweaked in which case you will probibly have other issues as well. This also assumes that you have taken these measurments when the original drive train was in the car or that you can get them from anouther Z. I'm sure there are other ways to align the engine/transmision to the diff but this is the aproach we are taking on our project.

How about this.... http://www.racinglab.com/rota-cap-rb.html

Mine came in a BIG BOX, not rolled.

Bought one from them last year when they were running a special for the holidays, $189 shipped. Genuine Xenon part so it fits like any Xenon would. It arrived within 5 working days so shipping was pretty quick. You might want to wait and see if they do the holiday special again. Ya I know its only $10 but I'm a big cheapskate.

Those do look great! Out of curiosity how much did it cost you to have them bent to shape?

Looking to see if anyone out there has a set of the Modern Motors 300zx turbo axle adapters for the s-30 that they dont need/changed mind etc. Let me know

I think Zs look good in most any shade of red and I like the toned down look of this color, so ya I think it looks good. What vehical is this color used on? Like others have said, everyone has there own taste in color so just go with what you think looks right.

"Hate to get hit with all that foam though..." Naw this is probibly one of the safest cars in the world. Foam = energy absorber.... kinda like a giant bike helmet.

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Nissan Quest rear wheel studs. Rock Auto P/N 610403 (Dorman brand) $1.37 EA. Use coupon code 1540765383880 for extra 5% off = 16pcs < $30.00 shipped.

I like the way its shaping up. Is that a stock s30 color? If so what is it?

I’ve been following this thread with great interest as I received my OBX (from Tuna Tom) late October. Upon disassembly I noted all the previously mentioned issues, Poor quality washers, burrs, dirt, etc. The bolts however were grade 12.9. Also mine arrived with the gears properly arranged, so if you do plan on using an OBX don’t just flip the gears assuming they are wrong. I’m guessing it comes down to lack of attention to detail during assembly at the OBX factory. This next part is in regards to the machining tolerances of the OBX. My plan was to reuse the original ring and pinion in my R200. To help ease the set up of the ring to pinion, prior to pulling the open diff I checked the ring and pinion lash. It was between .006”and .0065”, (near the middle of the factory spec). After pulling the open diff and removing the ring gear I measured from the ring gear mounting surface on the diff to the two faces on the diff where the carrier bearing races seat. I then measured the same areas on the OBX and compared the numbers. The left (drivers side) was within .0005” (half a thousandth) however the passenger side dimension of the OBX was .012” smaller than the original open diff. Rather than try and order a new spacer ring from Nissan I cut an additional spacer from .012” steel shim stock and installed it along with the two original right side spacers. After reassembly the ring to pinion lash was now between .0055” and .006”. This may not be the best way to do it but it worked for me. Also I’m not sure if Nissan offers a spacer as large as I needed as the FSM showed spacer sizes ranging to a maximum of .007” larger than the spacer in my diff. I hope this helps.