auxilary

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2437139891&category=42610 i guess it's an improvement?!

you may keep your lives and souls, but leave your limbs, they belong to me! don't bring any kids to this movie

the sad part about turning 18 is losing the desire to legally buy porn. at least you can get a lottery ticket

I dig. I'd buy one

my friend picked up an '04 srt-4 (these come with factory installed stage 1 kits and optional limited slip). Here's the dyno graph from a couple of days ago, car has ~500 miles on it, just broken in (300 miles is break in according to the manual). Uncorrected, I need to find out what elevation he's at. SAE corrected dyno to sea level Here's his input from another message board "245 WH SAE Corrected, 228 Actual. Oh, and zero dyno tricks. Stock air pressure, no spraying on the IC (I did on one run and it was my lowest run), all in fourth, nothing was touched/tweaked or played with. One fan in front of the car, hood open. Dyno jet 248C. "

Hey Len, wanna buy my 13b-re? hahaha

it's the re motor, not the rew... so it's more like an series 5 13b with twin turbo and bigger intake port runners. kind of like a series 5.5, not a 5 and not a 6. that's why i'm 50/50 on this vs. lt1 right now. i do have the motor, tranny, and misc right now

damnit. i made the mistake of looking through the tpi/lt1 section of summit today. I just can't get the practicality of the lt1 out of my head, the ease and cost of parts, the fact that I can have the swap done in 2 months. damnit this is annoying! my biggest fear is that if something breaks on the rotary (if?! hahahah) it'll be expensive and in some cases unavailable in the states (jdm motor)

i assume that the series you implied is some sort of model for the rim. normally, 60 series would indicate the aspect ratio of the sidewall of the tire. I'm going to venture a guess that if they have holes cut out in a pattern, they're weld draglites

you can register on 240z.org, and the site owner (mike gholson) can set you up with putting up a full gallery in the events section.

yup

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . too much boost... notice how the ujoints held out!

Heh, well, R1 vs. a fwd turbo neon... lotsa competition there my coworker has an srt4, I've driven it.... unless carefully launched, first gear is useless, 2nd gear is almost useless because the thing has far too much power for the front wheels. But the car hauls ass, for what it is, a sub 20grand flat 14 second runner. While they "rated" the srt4 at 215hp at crank from factory, the cars usually dyno around 220 at the wheels. If anything, dodge finally did something almost right - the only flaws are 1. it's a dodge, 2. it's wrong wheel drive.

Roger alpha niner, you're clear for take off. interesting choice of exhaust too

that oilcooler has lines going up/down - not an efficient design for moving oil.

summit is the cheapest by far

I wouldn't advise putting anything over 225 on a 7" rim. I don't think any tire place would even do 265 on a 7" rim for sheer risk of running liability incase something happens

zcar.com zdriver.com 240z.org ebay

well, that 4k total wasn't including the cost of the motor or transmission (which I already have.) in fact, here's a basic break down, only things not listed are the autometer pyrometer, boost gauge, oil press. gauge. Otherwise, everything is listed as maximum price they would cost, so final cost could be a little cheaper. The LT1/T56 was quoted at 4k from rancho chevy with 42k miles, and ecu/harness, and that's higher than I expected, I can find cheaper LT1/t56 combos. Fuel System Aeromotive/Walbro Fuel pump $150.00 Fuel cell/mount box $250.00 fuel lines/fitting $100.00 injector cleaner $40.00 Exhaust / Misc Muffler $150.00 Intercooler piping $150.00 Exhaust piping $100.00 Bulk steel for mounts/etc $100.00 Oil cooler with lines $100.00 Electrical Electrical wiring $75.00 Microtech Fuel management $700.00 coils (junkyard 2nd gen) $25.00 Spark plug wires (magnecore 10mm) $65.00 Spark plugs $40.00 transmission components act street/strip clutch/flywheel $325.00 clutch slave cylinder $50.00 Custom drive shaft $300.00 Speedometer gear / customer $90.00 Engine Engine gaskets $150.00 Silicon vaccuum hoses $75.00 Intercooler $300.00 blow off valve $150.00 K&N cone filter $50.00 Boost controller $200.00 Misc construction (hoses, etc) $300.00 Total pain to my wallet $4,035.00

yes no it's called bridge or street porting doesn't exist in a rotary motor doesn't have any cams doesn't have any pistons i can see humor...

Well, prepping for the 13b rotary swap to start in 2 weeks, my friend and I sat down to run through all possible numbers for the rotary swap. Not counting the cost of the motor, it would be 4k to do the swap, intake to exhaust tip with aftermarket engine management and fuel cell. 5k if I was to upgrade to a t04b turbo and injectors. If I just drop the stock motor with stock wiring harness and ECU, it'll be around 3.3k. Not to mention car downtime would be about 5-6 months provided I work 3 out of 4 weekends a month on it. At this point, the cost factor is starting to bother me, and I'm contemplating selling the motor and transmission (easy 2k, I will break even) and get an lt1/t56 or a separate purchases of a carbed 327/350, and a t56. the chevy swap is going to take a lot less time (I already have a JTR kit and manual, and there are plenty of buddies around who have done these to help out), and will be cheaper overall... and that feeling of pure torque.... In rotary's defense, the car will be 200lbs lighter, mid-engined, literally, and will definitely draw attention when the hood's open.... (stock 13b-re is "rated" at 230hp voice yer opinions, what would you do?

205/60/15 would be the optimal size so you don't have to recalibrate your speedo.

that's fine, just make sure the bolt holes are evenly matched up on both sides, otherwise your bar will be crooked. When you tighten it down, it'll fit well, as bolts will pull everything into place.