auxilary

he was incarcerated for supposedly having some illegal firearms, which was mostly bullshit from the state, if memory served right.

I don't think so.

http://www.4apc.net/home.htm it's the flash thingy on the left

oh, sorry

while I'm....where? the engine doesn't come with brakes, and I already have 4 pot with vented rotors

I think you'd have a better deal to get a running motor from a jspec car, since they had slightly higher HP ratings too. with PNP, you're risking a lot, and you KNOW the motor's blown

Using the flashed ECU for now, later getting an aftermarket engine management system. A buddy of mine has a set of FD twin turbos (stock from 13b-rew) that I'll probably buy off him relatively cheap

But...why would you want to? The alltrac is rare and highly sought after

DavyZ and i are parting out a 240z with a full clutch system. have pedal, linkage, and master cyl. Slave's kinda shot, a new raybestos unit is about 30 bucks from kragen

if you want more photos of the motor with measurements, check out http://www.datsunracing.com/13bre

On a turbo 2 motor, the motor mounts are tabbed off the intermediate housing in hte middle, so you're better off at mounting it. You might also want to look at going to a junkyard and pulling an FC crossmember (it's U shaped) . It might be easier to weld/bolt it to the frame rails than creating your own mounts.

The guy's in livermore, a few miles off 205/580 interchange. check out http://www.stormperformance.net , and ask for mark. tell him alex passed you along

If you need a j-spec turbo2 motor, i can get you a guy who sells them. a used one in running condition will be about 900-1000 bucks, and that's with ECU, tranny, flywheel, harness, complete motor with accessories. i also have all upper/lower intake manifolds, injectors, fuel rail, and tps from an S4 j-spec motor. Also have a stock turbo, in very good condition, no shaft play, spins freely.

So, I scrapped the idea of rebuilding the rotary I bought for 300 bucks, because after doing some spec testing, and 4 out of 5 housings aren't useful, and it would cost about 400 bucks just to get replacement used housings in decent shape, plus 1000 bucks for a rotary rebuild kit. I figured, hey, if I'm spending that much already, I can just buy a 2 rotor cosmo block, sequential twin turbo with bigger ports and intake runners. Underrated at 230hp stock with lots of potential [blown apex seals! HAH!] This should be getting delivered next sunday. I took some measurements of the motor, and of the engine bay. Looks like a secondary crossmember is inevitable, the transmission will be used from the old motor I bought, and it is 34.5" long from shifter to end of bellhousing., assiming transmission sits in stock location, which it will. I would actually like the motor to sit as far forward as possible, but even in that position, the motor will be BEHIND the strut towers. The motor mounts are located in the back of the motor, byt the flywheel, so I'll have to design and mount either tabs off the frame rails, or a crossmember to run between the two. This leaves plenty of clearance for the oilpan, and the motor with aluminum runners on the sides as pictured spans 26", while the Z's engine bay shows 30" between strut towers, so that gives more than necessary clearance. This should not interfere with brake MC, at least, I hope it won't. The motor's turbos are located on the passenger side, so the battery will have to be relocated, probably somewhere to the FRONT of the motor, because I'll need more weight over the front wheels. This will leave more than necessary space for radiator and intercooler, which can probably be mounted behind the radiator rather than in front, with a black magic fan in the middle. The flow should be sufficient enough so that the air won't have enough time to heat up, and the intercooler should remain functional enough to do its job. I am probably wrong on this, but it's a thought. The motor comes with a flashed "race" ecu, so this should get me going, the seller also has a wiring diagram, and the harness is not cut up, which is even better. Now I just need to learn to weld, get a welder, and a garage I can start doing this swap in. Oh, and that fuel delivery issue too

danke. I knew 84 had 4 lugs, but didn't know that it was for n/a only.

i think 175/200 is comfortable for teh street, with a v8, i'd bump that number to 200/225

http://www.upsitedown.co.il/anim/rest40.html man, that last meal had me laughing my ass off outloud

this is for the ross c. style rear disk conversion with 240sx calipers. my friend works at an autoparts retailer, and can get me brembo rotors for 20 bucks below cost a piece. he says his system shows two diff. part numbers for '84 n/a and turbo 300zx. I assume they're the same rotors for both, right?

Where's the turbo? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oh, there it is

They're CCW wheels, and the bumper is a nicely painted MSA type 2 airdam

What do you get when you cross a unitarian and a jehovah's witness? Someone who knocks on your door for no apparent reason

Let me know which color makes things seem longer, I have a ..uh.... custom use for it!

Owen - that's a vintage air a/c kit.

let's get something straight - Z's were known for cocaine dealers, not pot dealers! inappropriate!

trick questoin! Ditka is god! hahahha