auxilary

Haynes: Rotate counter-clockwise. Translation: Clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer counter-clockwise. Haynes: This is a snug fit. Translation: Clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: This is a tight fit. Translation: Clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly with a hammer. Haynes: As described in Chapter 7... Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start. Now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox. Haynes: Pry off Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into... Haynes: Undo... Translation: Go buy a can of WD40 (giant economy size). Haynes: Retain tiny spring... Translation: PINGGGG - "Where the hell did that go?" Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb... Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the socket part (and maybe a piece of glass or two). Haynes: Lightly... Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: Weekly checks... Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it. Haynes: Routine maintenance... Translation: If it isn't broken, it's about to be. We warned. Haynes: One Difficulty rating. Translation: An infant could do this... so how did you manage to **** it up? Haynes: Two Difficulty rating. Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, teensy weensy number... but you also thought the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you). Haynes: Three Difficulty rating. Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days. Haynes: Four Difficulty rating. Translation: You're not seriously considering this are you? Haynes: Five Difficulty rating. Translation: OK - but don't ever carry your loved ones in it again. Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this... Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha. Haynes: Compress... Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on it, throw it at the garage wall, then find some vice-grips and a hammer... Haynes: Inspect... Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are Looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one" Haynes: Carefully... Translation: You are about to suffer deep abrasions. Haynes: Retaining nut... Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust. Haynes: Get an assistant... Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know. Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed. Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs. Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Translation: Yeah, right. But you swear in different places. Haynes: Pry away plastic locating pegs... Translation: Snap off... Haynes: Using a pin punch... Translation: Clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer. Haynes: Everyday toolkit Translation: AAA Card & Mobile Phone Haynes: Apply moderate heat... Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Alternatively, clamp with vice-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer.

225/50/15 front, 255/40/15 rear ?

So...uh...how much to get one like that made for me? and what's the capacity on that?

there's no such thing as a USDM ca18[d]et -nissan didn't produce a 1.8 liter turbo for any US bound vehicles.

it's hacked apart, i'm working on gathering necessary [and expensive] parts right now. shit, the rebuild kit alone is 1100 bucks!

TGIF collision repair in fremont has a frame alignment rack, but it may be around 120-150 to do a full frame inspection+computer junk. Call'em and find out some details

they're lightweight centerline wheel knock offs. those wheels weigh 12 lbs in 17" form

actually.... those almost look like wheelie bars!

do they cater to ricers now?

got a buddy with a 240z? try it on their Z and see if the fit is any different

my 73 240 is at 2427 with a full tank of gas an a 20 lb bag of tools, no spare. this is with the stock motor

thanks! that could come in very useful. i'm not doing any work right now because it's raining and cold, but i'll check out the car in more detail for more cancer when it's dry

Not a datsun tranny, pretty sure. Datsun trannies have the clutch slave on the bottom side of the unit.

I might just take you up on that offer, depending if there's anything local here! the floorpans are ok, as far as i can tell. It's just several spots on the frame rail (i need to get it up on the lift and check it out), and my friend just called me to tell me his buddy has a lift and a good welder. If that falls through, I'm gonna hit you up for that offer

Well, found the worst. My car's not as perfect as I thought. While changing the oil and fixing my speedo cable leak, I chipped away some paint on the passenger side frame rail. Horrified, I saw rust. I hit it a few times with a wrench, and bent the metal up and opened a small hole.... It's cancer I haven't gone to check if any other rails have the rust issue, haven't had time. Now, what's the best way of eliminating it? Since I don't have a welder, and no lift, how much am I looking at to repair?

you ain't seen nothin' until you've seen someone doing a stoppie with an R1 with the same type of rim with the spinning center

here's my $14.06 take on that little problem. The urethane airdam tends to lose rigidity after a while, since there's no support in the middle, it starts to sag and becomes flappy like a sheet of rubber after a while. Not wanting that to happen, I ventured out to a hardware store, and picked up the following: -6 x 5/16 nuts at $.05 each -4 x 1/4 flat washers $.03 each -2 x 5/16 lock washers $.05 each -1 x 3 foot 5/16 threaded rod $2.39 -1 aluminum bracket plate (don't remember thickness off top of my head, maybe 3/16s or 1/5) - $9.75. it was a large sheet because i figure i'll have uses for leftovers. -4 x m8x30mm bolts - $.20 each -2 x 5/16 tee nuts - $.30 each tools needed: -quick setting epoxy -hacksaw -angle grinder -drill -5/16 wrenches and sockets -die grinder (optional) So I made plate brackets out of the alumnium plate, 2.5" across, 4" long each. I used the horn mounts for the bolt location since they're already tapped and ready for used in the radiator support. Each rod I used is about 11" long. I took the tee nuts and cut them to half the size with an angle grinder, because otherwise they'd be too long to fit in the hole I drilled in the airdam. The holes aren't drilled all the way through, but enough to set an indentation for the tee nut to use. The tee nuts are held in place with epoxy. The rest is pretty self explanatory, and the airdam is now rock solid. Doesn't budge, doesn't move, and yet if it encounters a curb, it will have some leeway and not crack like a fiberglass airdam. Tee nuts, regular sized on the right, aux-modified on the left (5 seconds with an angle grinder is fun. I swear, it's the best tool next to an impact gun) Plate brackets I made (they do not flex at all, not enough leverage to cause any bends). They're bolted where the stock horns mount. The horns are not back on yet, as this was a trial fit. Tee nut mounted on the back of the airdam. None of this is visible on the front assembled threaded rod/bracket/nuts/washers Finished product. The horns are mounts in front of the bracket, so the bracket is mounted directly to the rad. core support. High res. images available here: http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4290435153

Heck, my choices were between sr20det, 13b, and an rb25det. I was almost set on an sr20det, i agree with jamie, do it.

Oh, I know I just wanted to inform you that I'm aware of what Tea bagging is, and I hope to never be a victim!

uh, 100mm...in what aspect? stock Z bolt pattern is 4x114.3

T Baggin? I am NEVER falling asleep or passing out anywhere around you!

well, one would have to design custom intermediate (middle separating) housing, intake/exhaust runner ports, and a balanced extended eccentric shaft (crankshaft,if you will). Can't just weld two eccentric shafts together since the inside's riddle with oil baffles and passages. In fact, there are oil jets on the shaft used to deliver oil to the rotor. I don't have much wankel knowledge just yet, but I'm picking things up quick - these things are so cool

numnumnum forget the 20b rotary! we can build a.. uh...45.5b rotary! Believe it or not, there are 4 complete motors on that shelf in front of you. (one rotor housing is on top that you can't see)

if your backspacing and offset is right, then you should be far from rubbing. people have fit 265mm wide tires in stock wheel wells

Dumb question: Can I run 2 fuel pumps in line? or is that a dumb idea? Brad: with FI for turbo applications, how vital is it to have a sumped tank?