auxilary

Took Jon (Jumbo240ez) and myself (well, jon doing most of the work, haha) about 5-6hours, but that included measuring and planning out everything from scratch, 1 hour lunch break, and making 2 runs to the hardware store. Go to the misc. tech forum, and do a search for mr2 seats, you'll see a detailed post from me about it

My buddy photoshopped them.... yeap, that really works

What's wrong with red? I've been using it on my r200 for almost 2 years, it's hte high temp stuff, and it hasn't leaked a drop

Do what I did: get a tube of permatex rtv sealant (red) and make a gasket

Honestly, Haynes and Chiltons aren't the best manuals. They're ok to have around when you need comparison notes, wiring diagrams and some torque specs. Personally, the best bet is to invest in a factory service manual. It'll cost you about 70-85 bucks, but it's worth it in the long run. I bought mine at a local shop called Allied Auto, it was just sitting there on a shelf. Here's a link off partsamerica.com (kragen stores) http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=HAN&MfrPartNumber=28012&PartType=626&PTSet=A if that doesn't show up, set up the car as your year's Z, and do a search for repair manuals. I think it's 17 bucks to order from them. franklinz: with the poor mechanic reference, i was referring to you bashing the search tool on this site. If a topic hasn't been covered, chances are it doesn't exist on the site, so search will be useless if there's nothing to find. Either that, or you're not using it right.

you're the only one complaining - a poor mechanic always blames his tools torque for moustache bar is 30-32 ft lbs for the bushing bolts, and i think 55ft lbs for the carrier bolts. you could also invest $14 in a haynes manual that has torque settings copied from the factory service manual.

hoosiers or yokohama a032r

money sent. my pay sucks, i can't spare much, but hopefully with more people sending money in we can get enough going.

you don't need them' date=' they're expensive. They're good for autocross because of quicker steering response needed in tight spaces/turns, but steering effort is increased. They will help, but they just relocate the problem elsewhere. They are a good fix for the street for a car lowered more than an inch. A better fix is moving the pivot points of the control arm. check if they do, and if they don't, get them anyway. Worth the extra money. MSA overcharges for everything. You can get the same master kit from suspension.com for a lot cheaper. The bumpsteer spacers can be purchased from http://www.jagsthatrun.com for 50 bucks vs 60, I think. That's where I got mine from. How much are you lowering your car, and the street camber kit from MSA doesn't allow you to quickly change camber settings. Every time you need to adjust it, you will need to drop the strut. This isn'ta problem if you only need to do it once (ie. street car).

This had me laughing my ass off this morning

if you flip it, it's still going to spin the wrong way. if you mean switching the gear directions internally, that might work

only if it's a pc dvd player. you can do it a limited number of times with the software (ie. windvd only allows 5 times). regular dvd player will not allow you to do it unless it was purchased from japan/china/etc. certain brands have hacks, like apex dvd units, so you cna hack it to do multi region

average coil diameter is 2.5" for coilovers used on datsuns

sway bar nuts should be tightened to about 15 ft lbs on endlinks, and 15-20 on the body. don't overtighten. don't forget to grease the bushings. sway bars should be installed with car off the ground, nuts tightened with car on the ground.

i would highly advise against making useless posts just to raise your post count. it clutters up the database, makes searches and parsing longer, and overall pushes useful threads down off the first page.

I think the general rule of thumb is the higher rate the spring, the smaller diameter swaybar. And vice versa

I'd wait on that, and see if anyone here is willing to sell your their rear cylinders, since a lot of people are doing Ross's rear disk swap.

geez Al, I'm really sorry to hear that. He's a good kid, I hope everything turns out well. Let us know how we can help out. I'm testing waters around other boards seeing if anyone's interested in buying hte Z

http://www.zhome.com

They work great in the rain, dry traction is very good. The only other tires I have immediate experience with right now are falken azenis, and the es100s aren't as good as those when it comes to dry grip. Actually, for the value, not many tires can touch the azenis (on my neon). Right now I can slightly outhandle the neon with my Z (Z has coilovers, 200lb/in springs, 1" sway, illuminas, pu bushings). Overall, I am happy with the tires. I paid 450 for 4 at america's tire company, mounting and balance included. You want to change your sizes thought, go with 225/50/16 instead of 225/45

My ES100 in 225/50/15 on my Z. rims are 15x7

i had panasport 14x7s for sale, but that was a month ago sorry

wrapped a chain around the back end, and used 2 bolt holes with misc. bolts to make attachment points

48 cylinders

i'm too much of a nerd, i was expecting a post about RAM