gearheadstik

Grayzee, measure that stock bolt again and I think you will find it's not 12mm.

Did you ever know that your my hero......

Why did you change the req fuel...If I understand correctly it realy does not matter what it is set at, but does alter your map....so if you use a different req fuel and the same map as moby, you may have changed your values....Is that right?

I also used everything stock.....but the bolt... did the same thing as Phil.

I'm using a HE-351 and Big-phil is using a holset of some kind a HE-351, HY-9 or HY-35w...12x1.5 worked for us... just drilled through the center to make it a banjo bolt.

Can I get those at toys r us or what? Go elmo..

I was thinking you pull the limp and set it at 10.....

For the second time.... No, it's made of some blend of pot metals...My bad third time....

No welding...I could have made the fit tighter, so it could have been pressed on or heated...but I wanted to be able to clock in case I moved my sensor. The wheel moved some on the way to SEZ and I now have 4 set screws for safe measure.

A switched ignition wire is all you will need... probably a black w white stripe wire under the steering.

Maybe it's just me, but I have three HVLP guns and all hvlp fittings and hoses in my booth but I can never seem to get them to spray as slick as my High pressure guns...I did like the fact of low overspray so I first purchased hvlp for primer guns to use out in the shop, but soon went back to a Hi pressure ATD with a 2.0 tip and just spray at a low pressure...the only times my hvlps come close to spraying slick enough for me is when you jack up the pressure to near what a hi press gun uses. Racerx what kind of pressure do you spray at and can you guys even use high pressure guns in CA? I'm a 27yo Pro firefighter/paramedic now, but always worked in shops comming up and went to the VICA national comp in 98 competeing for Alabama and scored in the top 10 in painting and top 20 in all around paint and body...There was one competator from each state... Just put this in to credit myself a little...I dont do this for a living and know less about production work...most of my exp is in restoration... The competition stuff was alot of fun but made me realize that the south was behind in most modern automotive body and paint equipment...I had never even seen some of the equipment we used..like I said just my .02

I'm now using Braaps old setup with a holset HE-351...set up my edis wheel on pulley for A/C for like 50 bones...Works great so far...see my 280 gallery for pics

I love it so far...but would have it pro built.

It will be tonight before I have time..but yes I will answer all your questions... But just know with paint you pay for what you get... Are you prepaired to spend 1200 or so on just the materials? If not say so now and I might can make you some good recomendations on what you should do...Aaron

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ATD-10-Piece-AVLP-Spray-Gun-Set-for-auto-paint-New_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43987QQihZ002QQitemZ4616402519QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V This brand is a cheap yet a good copy of a SATA style gun...most paint auto paint supply stores have or will get them for you...I have 2 sata and 3 devilbiss guns...these spray just as good when set up correctly...just dont last as long... A good sata is 500 bones or so...you are correct about the idea of having a gun for different paints...if you dont want to spend as much money from the start, get a primer gun and a paint gun...get the tip on the primer gun big as you can...say a 2.0...most primer surfacers are thick, the large tip helps. Its sucks to not have a gun clean enough and a flake of metallic fly out in your clearcoat...if you have a gun devoted to clear this will not happen. If local laws permit stay away from hvlp guns, they never spray as slick unless you have a very high dollar setup...due to the lower air pressure not atomizing the paint as well as a hi pressure gun.. you do not need heat lamps if you use paint entended to air dry...most are dry to tough in 4hrs...you can speed this to a hr or so if you wanted to but I like slow drying paints, they flow out or slick out better with the slow dry times...Just my .02 ....p.s. i do paint cars, and have my own booth at home...for what it is worth..hope this helps..Aaron

One is the orig stud, the other is the ARP.