gearheadstik

I don't have the commute but want to be sleeper as possible on this one... I have another that's gonna be a drag car and wont mind the noise...

I too would like to hear it... I am about to do exhaust on mine and was wondering how loud are these cars in person? I kinda want mine quite where I can daily drive it without it getting too much attention... Have been thinking about running true duals to one side with resonators and 2 chamber flowmasters comming out at fac driver side location.. I know room is going to be a big issue...

Don't know about ur springs but u should'nt have to worry too much about the 15lbs.... I ran mine at 25lbs when showing out and 15 or so all the time... All on it's internal wg ported and a AEM electronic boost controller... Mine was a NA motor before finding a turbo motor...

You guys rule..........

Hell yeah... Wow... I'm so jealous... I hope to be starting on a boosted 5.3 here before long. Have almost everything I need piled up already. Gonna do a big single on fac rear and see how far I can push it. Miss seeing you guys at SEZ...

Thanks Matt, but after pulling all my hair out... I found a ground that was not hooked up in my temp mess of wires... The coils grounds were tied into it, that along with a bad wiper motor that was sending voltage through the cars shell.... I was near throwing in the towel. I have fire now.... Thanks again for the quick answer.

I have tried to follow the mobythevan ls1 install notes but can not seem to get a 5v signal. Where should i start looking? I have what seems to be a clean sig from the crank sensor but when spinning over not getting out of the spark outputs. Could it be something to do with firmware? I have used mobys tune and all setup in tune seems to be correct. Thanks for any advise. Should I see 5v on each output with the ignition on? I would think so if it loses ground to fire them...

Love the car, but is it just me or does the rear flare look like its on the wrong side?.. The shape just looks a little off.

It is..... Both mine came in no problems......

Love the family addition.... 510's rule...

True Carbon fiber parts are too high to be making.... A real hood is aroung 3k.... Just so u know.. All the hoods u see are one layer of carbon then fiberglass... I am in process of building a 280z dash mold and if it's a part like a fender, you can buy, you should just do that.. Mold making the right way is way more expensive than the part....for large parts that is....

Flipped, no issues... broke a bucket full of spicer u joints before making the swap...

280z stubs, MM welded adapters,z31 axles, welded diff.....

He is right saying that about the stubs being the weaker link... Our zebra race car and jnjdragracings car have both done huge wheel stands on turbo axles and stock stubs.... And held up well

HAHA... Not worried about his picking on me.... I'm sure I have forgot more that he will ever know about all this car stuff... All injures can be prevented... but they're not in the real world...

Tell them, Brother.....

Sure someone else that knows more about it should chime in, but yes... I am told by my machine shop guy that this type oil has zinc or something like that... a metal that the gov has made producers take out over time due to smog stuff... He says as long as you dont run cats it is great... It clogs cats and that is why it has been taken out over time.... He says that this is the reason there is all these break in oils now days.. every cam comp sell a bresk in additive and it is straight zinc "or I think thats it"... Just what i have been told....

I may be interested.... PM me... Let me know what your plans are...

Those look like the wrong pads for the calipers.... Are the pin hole location is in the wrong spots.... pads just prob too thick.. I have this setup and would have to find my pads box to tell u what kind to use... But you should be able to find in search....

I kinda disagree...I think u better go look.... It may not be all that bad. I would rather have a car like that, that the rust has not been painted and bondo worked over...Some rust like that is not bad to blast off. It has the 240z style bumpers on it and I bet they are worth more than 150 for someone like me to have to straighten and rechrome....

I think that cut off wheels are the one of the most dangerous thing you could use in auto repair. Which I know but still can't seem to get it through my head to wear glasses and gloves all the time. This time i was cutting a frame part at a bad angle. When these things burst, your threw.... You could see the bone and ligaments. But I'm a paramedic as my day job, so I fixed it right up myself w girlfriends help...haha

Reason u should wear gloves...lol. Had my girlfriend sew it up at home... Looks fine now.

Thanks.... That is a good deal... I bought 2 of the 240 style #3124... They look better to me when big bumpers removed...

They are used to tie down the car during shipping.. There was a external piece bolted there when new....