EMWHYR0HEN

Sorry fellas. There's gotta be an easier way than uploading them on hybridz...

Just wanted to share pics on how the engine sits with the new mounts. Fabbed up an aluminum radiator mount. Iv'e got about and inch of room from engine to firewall. I swear I had about 1/16 th of a inch between the STB and intake manifold when I fabbed it. Now after I installed the engine it touches a little bit! So im saying F*** it, unless theres a good reason to alter it. I think I got lucky AGAIN, the shifter lined up perfectly with the seat and steering wheel! I need to finish my rear brakes and that pretty much covers it for this section. Can't wait to drive it again!

Sorry, tried somthing new. Enjoy

I tossed the stock dash for one reason, weight. First I mocked up a cardboard jig just to get an idea (Thanks Clifton for the pics and specs). Then I pulled some measurments and cut the top out (.40 thick) with some heavy duty sheers. Then I cut out the front face and side supports (.080) with a cut of wheel and had a cool wet rag near by to keep the metal from worping. I don't have a TIG welder so everything is bolted bogether. Fairly easy, I just cut it out so that there are tabs every 4'', then bent the tabs in the direction or angle desired. After that I just lined it up and drilled through both peices. I weighed the new Aluminum dash with my scale I use for fishing (pretty accurate) and it weighed 4 Lbs 3 ounces w/o gauges. Finished it with flat black because it was like a mirror in the sun. Finally, I mounted it to the car using scraps bent into "L" brackets using the stock mounting points. Oh and all the materials only set me back 30 bucks at IMS! Easy to cut, priced ok, doesnt rust, I think i'm starting to LOVE aluminum!

I got rid of the old lines and fittings and replaced them with new 3/16 copper nickel line, 10mm x 1 brass nuts and replacied the saftey switch with a 10mm brass 3-way tee. Also, I got rid of the stock proportioning valve and replaced it with a wilwood adjustable one. I got all the hardware from automec,which is located in England, best prices Iv'e found and received it in a week. I recomend the copper line because it's super easy to bend, and it forms/ seats nicely when the fittings are tightened. I was on a budget so I got a tubing bender from Harbor Freight, pipe cutter and a 45 degree flaring tool at Sears. This is my first time doing all this stuff so it doesnt look the greatest, But I'm happy to say Iv'e got no leaks! even with cheap tools! I'm planning on running the Modern Motorsports rear brake setup, and from the info I got here the F/R bias with the AZC front is almost perfect, being just a little front biased. I installed an adjustable prop. valve just in case the setup is rear biased, or if I plan to make some rear brake changes. With the Adj. prop valve installed, will it decrease rear pressure even if the knob is turned all the way down? Iv'e got to give credit to BJ for giving me the idea to route the line FR line on the cross menber. Thanks BJ!