EMWHYR0HEN

As Long as the gland nut is tight against the strut youl be fine. Ive never seen anybody use a washer there. I too had the gland nut come loose on me. Cleaned it up, and a little thread lock or silicone solved that problem.

With the parts you mentioned your car should be up to par with alot of modern sports cars today, but what it really comes down to is your driving. Just to give you an idea of what i'm talking about the last track event I went to at the Streets of Willow I was faster than a modded mr2, 240sx's wrx's, and even a vette. However, There was a guy out there with an old beat up VW rabbit that was probably the fastest in our run group. I spoke to the guy later that day and found out he's been driving his car tracks for years. It happens all the time. If your trying to be quick out there I would sugest building a balanced car as a whole, then get plenty of seat time. Your local and I also need to brush up on my driving, interested in some track events or spirited driving?

I hate to hear stories like this. I keep checking this thread because I want to find out what happend. If you can't find EXACTLY what happened I wouldn't just pick and choose guessing what went wrong. The safe way to approach your problem is to fully inspect ALL steering parts and replace even a slightly suspicious part. When's the last time you got your rack inspected? it's not too expensive to get them rebuilt. Good luck, and be SAFE!

If your willing to make brackets for a larger calper, or a bracket for a larger rotor w/ 240sx caliper, I'd be interested in buying oa pair from you and i'm sure many here would be also. Now I guess the problem is which rotor or caliper to use. It's going to be hard to find a soilid rotor bigger than 11'' as it will also be hard to find a bigger caliper that uses non vented rotors. I guess a vented rotor would provide what were looking for here, besides any machine shop can drill holes to make a 5-lug rotor to a 4. Just throwing this out there, would a toy 4x4 caliper be suitable for the rear?

I have the same calipers up front and I WAS considering MM 240sx/300zx rear setup. I just wasn't sure about the F/R bias. Thanks for the info! The dual master cylinder mod seems kinda pricey. A cheaper way would be to keep the 300ZX Rotor (Z31) and swap the 240sx caliper for a larger one. I was considering the rear calipers of the Z32 300ZX which are dual piston and much larger than the 240sx, but it uses a vented rotor. What other larger rear calipers could we possibly use with the solid Z31 rotor? Donor car? Sorry for the thread jack.

if it's rusted that bad in that area, I woudnt be surprized to see more rust under all the paint. If you think it's a deal then go for it just remember metal is always fixable. I wouldn't drive the car daily. That's an important structure of the car, and if it's gone your probably gonna hurt other structures.

That should work. I did some similar work on my boat. I would lay 2 or more layers before riveting, then use chopped strand mat to go over the rivets because it's a little thicker than cloth and will hide the rivets better ( i'm assuming your trying to make it look flush).

You could do a v mount if your willing to make it functional and by that youl have to hack your hood and make some ducting for air to flow properly. You could move your rad further back as well for better weight balance, or as you mentioned two turbos sounds nice! I'm looking forward to see the car running as i'm also considering the VQ for a future powerplant. I still can't beleive how big the VQ looks in the Z33 and how small it looks inside an s30 bay. By the way are you planning on running the stock Z33 wiring and computer?

Thank's for sharing. The GT-R has always been a car that only appeals to some people. I saw it in person recently at the LA auto show and leme tell ya it's curves look great. You don't get the same effect with pictures.....

first thing coming to mind is Acura

Ok so it's not your cup of tea. Everyone has their own style. It would suck big time if all cars looked the same. It's not soo much the car i'll hate, but mostly the drivers.

Although the LS1 is a good source for power, I think it's too soon to say it was a good choice for your car based on another car. What it comes down to is whether your successful in what your trying to achive. Drag? Auto X? Street fun? Road course/ competetion? It really depends what your doing with your car, because the right choice for you could be the absolute wrong choice for someone else.

I recently removed alot of rust on my car and now i'm just starting to paint some of the bare metal and rusty surfaces with RustBullet. I bought a gallon ( which I realize now is wayyy to much ) for $115 and I'm appling the paint with brushes and rollers. Here are my impressions: The paint is thick and it's self leveling, I found when using a brush and rollers you kinda have to work in quick, short sessions. It adhears to anything, its great, bare or rusty metal. The paint's surface was tough when dry, almost like it was powdercoated. I like it, but if I were you i'd spary it on. By the way you guys recomend spraying the insides of bare metal surfaces, wont it just burn away when you weld on it? I think it would be better to drill small holes and use some kind of extendable spray nozzle to paint inside.

I agree!

That's too funny, But not all Engineers and Engineering students are total dorks. At least I think I'm not......or maybe I'm just to busy to think about it. lol.

I6, V6, why does it really matter? it makes nearly 500HP in it's stock form. Look at the majority of most Nissan's powerplants today and youl find the stout VQ engine nessled under the hood. Coincidence? I think not. The VQ has proven to be a good platform, and I support Nissan for slapping it in the new GT-R. So the big question is.....Who on Hybrid is buying one??!

Congrats an excellent choice in year/model. It looks like a good base to start with the project. If your not going to FULLY restore it, I would take a look at the common places for rust and treat them now so that it doesnt get any worse. Something I should have done a long time ago...

Wow, that's impressive! That transmission sounds like butter!

Not a common place for rust on the early z's. No paint= rust.

That wasnt too bad. Check out the vid of eddie griffen crashing the enzo, It just hurts to watch!

Definatly my CNC machine.. Right... I'd have to say 8-19mm spaners, sockets, and a 3/8 & 1/4'' ratchet considering you could probably take appart more than 70% of your car with those tools.

Keep it up Jon. I noticed your welds are getting nicer and nicer every time, especially considering how it's such a PITA to weld on the cars old, thin, contaminated metal. I wouldn't worry about the position of your jacking point. I experimented at a track day jacking everywhere along the bottom of the rocker, and basically anywhere on the rocker will lift both wheels off the ground. Post a picture of you jacking tool too i'm curious, I like the idea. Oh and what setting do you hvae your welder on when welding new sheet to the cars sheet? i'm either too cold, or burn through. I think I have the same welder as you... 2006 Miller 135 wirefeed?

That looks fresh!

Still my favorite IS. Sweet car man. Congrats

its hard to tell from that picture, but if that area is just "dimpled" and not bent along with the frame around it you should be fine. it's definatly repairable. Cut n' paist with sheet metal.