EMWHYR0HEN

Dude, relax. I just measured the depth of my zg flare and it comes out around 2 1/8 '' so you should be fine w/o a spacer. However, you always have the option to run spacers.

As some have mentioned, I would shave off some material from the air dam and maybe the fender. In addition to that I would get an alignment, maybe you have too much positive caster. I would also check out some better spacers like the ones that bold on to the hub ( I think they're called hub-centric spacers..?) or at least something that is flat so that the wheels can lay on the whole surface area and not just the area of 4 or 5 washers. I would be scared of my lugnuts coming loose!

Sure sounds like a Ford Guy.

If your sure you used a 37 degree flare, You've used the wrong flare. A double or inverted flare is a 45 degree flare the one you used sounds like an AN type. Since your also having the same problem with the clutch, I would check all of your new fittings for leaks.

I would go with your first choice. If your sectioning the struts to re-gain some suspension travel your going to want to take off as much strut as you can.

Well said!

I hear you on that one! There's so much talk about it shoulda looked like *blank* or it's uglier than *blank* The car is Totaly function over form. If you wanted the performance and looks of an exotic there's always Porsche, Ferrari, etc. It can perform and its priced like a Nissan because you get what you pay for. That's all that really matters to me anyway...

The paint looks great Jon. I'm sure after you wet sand, buff, and wax it, youl get the look you were looking for, maybe even more! Oh and great choice in color. It really does hide alot of imperfections, not that you did bad work or anything, but makes sence because you weren't going for that show quality finish. At least that's why I chose white.

Although I don't think everybody LOVES them, I do think the S30 is respected simply for it's history and it's timeless shapes.

Thanks guys for all the advise about the edge. I think i'm going to stick with it though.

Thanks Dave, Haha yeah I was able to pry the incredible hulks grip off and i'm going to run it straight out the header out the fender. When's the next canyon run?!

I wouldn't even mess with the CAS just yet, or timing or anything like that. As stated earlier, pull out one of the coil packs shove a plug in it and have some one crank the engine. There should be an arc coming from the plug. If your fuel system is working properly you should smell some fuel in the cylinders. if all that's ok then I'd check the timing.

Thanks Jerry. Edit: I got 2 2X4 aluminum sheets, not 4x8! I could have made a car with that much metal! Can you share pictures of the door panels? I was thinking about it, I just need to get a picture in my head.

Good to know, thanks Jon. Jaytho, Welcome! Many of your questions can be answered by checking out the archives. My main goal is to stiffen the chassis, I only have a roll bar for safety.

Thanks J. You can find the parts here : http://www.automec.co.uk/frame_set.html Give me my sticker dahmit!

Thanks for your compliments and also your concerns of my saftey. I made the top overhang 1/2'' because it just looked more " classic " to me. I'm still considering on just slicing a peice of rubber tube in half and covering the edge but I dont know yet. I'll always have a 5- point harness on so I'm not worried about smacking my head on it, and plus i'll have a helmet on at the track. Kevlar gloves? haha

The driver side attachment is a little longer, that's just that way it would clear the engine from touching the bottom of the bar. Here's a close up pic. The bar is touching the core/freeze plug, I don't even know why its evevn there, Cleaning? Anyway, I was thinking, the manifold is two peice so I could remove it and cut the plug out and fill & grind it flush. Good or bad idea to remove plug?

By front end are you talking about the fender wells and upper frame rail? if you are, then yeah they were slightly out of shape. Once I started to weld new staright peices on I used a hammer and dolly to straighten them back up. It's pretty easy to see what needs to happen once you get into it. __________________

I blew my two front struts using those peice of sh*ts... The bearing they provide isn't contained so it can slide around, and they're like $100. save your money and something nice and only buy it once.

It's not the ordinary copper line you see at Home Depot, lol. As Jon stated it's copper nickel and used in lots of european applications. One thing I did notice about the tubing was that the wall was thicker than the stock steel lines. I heard stainless lines are a PITA to bend and flare, which is why I stayed clear from that as I have no experience with hydraulic plumbing. Thanks tkach. I placed the prop. valve there simply because I didn't wan't my jack ass freinds messing with it ( sad, I know) and once It's set, It's set.

I got 2 4x8 sheets which was more than enough for no more than 30 bucks. I work pretty fast, but it took me around 4 hours to make. Sorry I tossed the Jig. Even though the strength of the dash wasn't a priority it turn out to be pretty firm. The main thing for me was weight, simplicity, and access to the gauges. The car is my weekend/track car so i'm not too worried about it. Umm, about the VIN thing, you could mount it anywhere on top of the dash, But that would be the least of my worries with a loud exhaust, lowered, no speedo, etc.

Fixed.