EMWHYR0HEN

I would say try a lock washer it you can get it to properly seat the spacer onto the hub. If that doesnt work I would go ahead and try to drill a stud with a tiny hole. I really don't see the harm in that if you can do it with out screwing up the threads. However, I don't think it's very realistic drillilng 16 tiny holes on a curved surface unless you have a drill press and something to clamp it with.

That's exactly how it was for me before I fixed it. I could have just left it with the slack up top but it's kind of difficult to heel and toe downshift and brake quickly with modulation. I have a good feeling that this is the problem with the slack on everyone's brake pedal. just to prove that, try putting something inside of the master cylinder and see if it shortens the slack.

Well I fixed my problem. The adjustable screw on the brake booster wasn't long enough even with it all the way out. I don't know if the depth of the hole on the 15/16 master cylinder varies, but the one on mine was deep. What I did to fix it was cut about 2 cm of a grade 8.8 6 mm bolt and placed it inside the hole so that the adj. screw had direct contact with the MC.

Sorry to bring this up from the dead but there was alot of people who had this problem, including me, and it seems like this thread ended with no conclusion. was this the solution to everyones soft brake pedal up top?

I was hesitant to read this at first thinking to myself, Man this guy really needs to get some friends...... lol kept reading though, and you got me!

If your only welding wire choices are .030 and .035 go with the .030. I don't know about flux cored welding but if you were using sheilding gas you would typically use .023 on most car applications.

Are you talking about cleaning the inside or outside? I have no experience with this, but if I were to do it I would pressure wash it with some kind of degreaser. or if your talking about cleaning the inside I would just put some gas inside and shake the crap out of it and drain then repeat.

I Don't think that means your also exempt from running a front plate. If your were to get cited for not having a front plate, your only testimony would be that they didn't give you one. Furthermore, you wouldn't be able to get it signed off as a fix it because you only have one plate. I would at least have another one just in case. Having the front plate on is on you... Just my opinion as I hate dealing with the system.

Thanks for clearing that up for me Jon. As for the wrinkles in the Z's.... I think that's just the way they manufactured the metal. On the plus side, It's alot more ridged than a flat peice.

I was under my Friend's 350Z the other day and I noticed it had a tubular member that connected one rocker to 2 suspension mounting points then back to the other rocker. It looked like a great way to stiffen up the front of the rockers and chassis so I went ahead and tried to make somthing similar with my car. On the rear of the car, I was hacking the spare tire well out and I saw that there was a big boxed member under my STB. If i had realized this before I would have triangulated that area a long time ago! So i went ahead and did that with the same material I used for my front STB. Onto the subject of stiffening the rear frame, i'm currently installing a fuel cell and i'm still stuck on designing the frame for the cell. I've seen different setups where the fuel cell frame connects from side to side on the frame rails, and some setups that connect from front to back also on the frame. I know both setups are strong enough to hold the fuel cell safely, my question is which setup would also help the ridgidity of the stock frame rails?

For those of us who want the 17x9 -13 and 17x9.5 -19 RB's "right away", How long until actual prduction starts and they show up to our doors? I have plans to run a 235-245 up front which should'nt have t/c rod rubbing issues just from looking at the pictures and from what Chris said. Regardless, any large & wide wheel (esp. with - offsets) on an S30 is going to require some cutting, grinding, bending, or other altering to get them to fit properly on a lowered car.

So the ZR-1 might accelerate and decelerate alot better than the Z06.... Look at the cornering speeds of all 3 cars. That's where the GT-R sets it self apart from the competition. Even if the ZR-1 is going to have dramatic changes from the Z06 I still think the GT-R will end up on top. Plus we're still talking about a regular GT-R. Who is to say that Nissan wont come out with an enthusiest/ Nismo edition?

Thanks Chris for all of your efforts. I greatly appreciate it. First off, you didn't mention any thing about your caliper clearences. I'm hoping there wern't any with the Wilwood setup you have. Personally, I like the RB's because the spokes are more curved for better brake clearences. If the RB-R's have straighter spokes I would guess that would shorten the distance from spokes to rotor/caliper. Next, you mentioned possibly changing the front wheel offset from -13 to - 17 which I think is a good idea. However, it all depends on how easy of a fix this would be for the wheel makers. I'm mainly concerned about how long it would take for them to make that change because with the current wheel (-13) you could easily add any thin 2-5 mm spacer to your personal liking. With that said, will the test fit wheels you have now be an availible option, or do we ALL have to agree on the same thing? I'm asking because I like the way everything currently fits/ looks and I want to be able to add/ remove thin spacers on the front depending on different tires/widths. So i'm all in on the RB's 17 x 9 -13 (front) and 17 x 9.5 - 19 (rear) with the only change of the larger diameter lug nut holes. Again, Glad to see progress! Thanks Chris!

Wow, the GT-R completed laps at ButtonWillow on avarage 5 seconds faster than the Z06 and 911 Turbo. Performance wise, I think the new GT-R is on another level.

Agreed. If you pull the pan on the engine youl see the pickup is directed towards the downward slant. If you pop the hood of any car that came with a RWD SR powerplant you'l notice that ALL the engines are slightly slanted. By the way I like how you made your engine mount a cross member instead of 2 mounts on the frame. Free chassis brace!

Welcome to HybridZ. If your interested on the wheels on the yellow Z Search SSR Longchamp. i think i'm just going to lurk this year at the MSA show......

Congrats on the Promo. Say good by to the tight and twisties of CA because your only going to see straight in FL!

Super. I'd definatly shoot it if I were hunting.

Wow, So true. but funny!

Dude that's so RICE. I hope you don't have any Hybridz stickers on your car.