EMWHYR0HEN

Jon's roll cage finished? could this be it?! What's a good metal cleaner before paint? acetone? I'm going to be painting soon as well.

If your gonna take it down to bare metal I would use POR-15 or Rustbullet first, then top it 3M undercoating.

John I wouldn't take the hose to any part of the car with bare metal. If your refering to the phospheric acid cleaner stuff, I'd just wipe it down w/o water. Thanks. As most people do it here, I would do one side at a time. Only cut out where your going to be working. If you do it like that you wont have to worry about the front end flexing . Before you start cutting, make plenty of measurments of crossmember location, t/c bracket, swaybar, etc. Another thing is, If I were to do it again, I would have taken all of the paint, undercoating seam sealers, etc. all at once ( on both sides of the metal). Its such a PITA to go back and remove the crap before you work each time. Lastly, where a respirator when welding. I can't stress enough how bad all the crap on the old metal is for you!

Does the 8610-1437RACE come in a standard body length? Or do you have to specify what body length you want? My Koni sales Rep told me there is only one length...

There's too many seam sealers out there to choose from. I just asked John Hines and he said his 3M sealer cracked in 2 weeks, I was going to buy some too! Anyone have any good experiences with some seam sealer? I'd hate to go back and wirebrush off some crappy sealer.

Say What?! What size? and Where!?

How do you stall doing a burnout!? with a V8?! sounds good though!

repairing rust where? on top near the roof, or on the lower frame? I don't see a need to remove the glass if yoru working low

Thanks for the support! I'll have more pictures soon with more progress. paint first then seam seal? or seam then paint?

If you just want to replace the rusty area without changing the entire panel, I would just cut out the rust and replace with sheet metal ,and WELD it if you have access to a welder. after I'd make sure you protect the rust from spreading.

It's been hard to get my buddies to give me some input on all the work iv'e been doing so i'll post some pix, maybe I can get some here. I replaced the entire frame rail with .120 sq. tube (I know, but that's all i could get.) I left the stock cross menber mounting points on the outer fender well and cut a hole in the new frame rail and welded it all together. Then I used 1'' x 1'' x 16 gauge angle to connect the rails with the fenderwells. I don't plan on enclosing the area between the t/c mount, SFC, and firewall with sheet metal. I braced the t/c mount from the back, will the mount flex under hard braking? also, in general when welding sheets, ex) floor pannels, firewall panel, is it necessary to put a full on bead, or is a bunch of tack welds sufficient enough? I hanv't seen many pictures of the TTT suspension parts here. I just got some and installed the camber plates, check it out I have some close ups to share.

What's next on the cage/structure to do list Jon? Comin together nicely.

what's the catch?