EMWHYR0HEN

I Agree! at least no one got hurt.

Thanks for the comments. I'll take a shot of the engine bay where the filter is located. I know running fuel beside you doesnt sound like the safest option but my reasoning is that the aluminum is much softer than the stock steel lines and can easily get more damge outside of the car from rocks and pebles. If everything is secure in the car (which should be when I drive this car) there's nothing that should come in contact with it. if you take another look it's in a safe location IMO. Additionally, iv'e seen plenty of race cars that have ran fuel lines inside. I think the question of safety arises if this car were driven as a daily street car, which it isn't. I'm not tottaly stuck on the location. Any Tech inspectors or racers want to chime in?

I finnished off the plumbing using 3/8 aluminum hardline and braided line. I got all my stuff from ANPLUMBING.COM which is local if your in the LA area. Huge selection of Earl's fittings, hoses, etc. I ran the hardline through the firewall/footwell then using nylon clips ran the line along the trans tunnel inside the car. The 10' lines ended 1.5' short of the tank after exiting the inside of the car through the passenger side storage compartment. From the hardlines i used compression fittings that then converted to AN stlye fittings. I fired up the fuel sysyem today and everything works properly with out any leaks, Phew. It was my first time using all the AN style stuff And I must say it's really easy to use and seals very nicely. However, This crap adds up FAST! so make sure you know what you need before you buy. Heres the finished product:

Thanks for the commments guys. I made a correction, It's a 10 gallon cell not 12 and it's dimentions are 16.5 x 16.5 x 9.0. When it sits flush with the floor the bottom of the tank sits about 1'' below the roll pan and the frame about 2''.

Looks Good, I'm glad you didn't use the fence post as well. Not to be picking on you or anything but your steering rack boot is broke meaning foreign objects can enter, like slag from the welding or other stuff from grinding. Just looking out... So whats next for the chassis?

In hopes of getting better fuel delivery, and making the car safer I replaced my old smelly fuel tank with an Aluminum 10 gallon fuel cell from Summit. It was kind of tricky making a fuel cell frame for this aluminum cell because there are really no safe mounting points. I used 1x1 x 16 gauge square tubing and first built the bottom making sure that the weight of the tank was going to be supported by all 4 corners. With the cell bolted to the tabs I welded on the bottom I sized it up and realized I had to make the cell removable for maintanence or repair. I came up with a way to remove the cell from the bottom by welding bolts inside of the square tube with the threads facing downwards. Then I welded 4 "L" brackets out of .125 onto the bottom cage and drilled holes for the bolts to slip into. For added strength I added one little gusset to each "L" bracket. To finish it all off I covered the floor with 22 gauge sheet and tacked it all up following that with seam sealer. I'm still considering if I should weld in some flat stock across the top of the cell even though the cell already fits super tight on top, and if I should cover the cage with some sheet. Stay tuned for fuel plumbing.

Not really. You'd be dead wrong to say the new GT-R is all about brute power. It's power to weight ratio isn't that far off from the competetition. It's the entire package that's packed with technology that makes it fast. If you want to go fast buy a GT-R. If you want a penis car buy a Porsche! It's just friendly competetion Mike.

I just got done with the exact same swap. Here are some tips: 1. cut off brake line bracket and relocate it away from e-brake bracket. The frame rail above is a great place. 2. switch the right e-brake cable to the left side and left to right. It shortens the length of the cabe a little bit. 3. with everything connected and the wheel off, jack up that corner as far as you can safely to see if anything will hit/touch. once thats all clear, do it again with the wheel on. Hope that helps. Good luck

John, after you did the rear disc swap what front brake were you using? How was the balance?