EMWHYR0HEN

actually its like 20 bucks for that thing shipped. im a cheapo college student, and i dont have a carbon zinc battery (where can i get one) , any other local places that i can get this magic stuff from besides from a battery?

Hey Q, did you give this power? i dont remember if i added that to the list i made.

Well you probably would have noticed it if you removed it because it goes striaght to the injectors. Good Job Q, that was a TEST. You passed, with Honors too. lol. My bad though.. haha

The Blue/white wire Is +12 V. and also joins with the AAC valve and oxygen sensor +12 v. You need to trace all three of those things until they join into one wire and give it power. The LG/red wire goes stright to the ECU. dont touch!

Thanks guys! hope it solves my problem

If i remember right, you only need that one wire(af81) from that 6 or 8 prong harness. all the rest im sure you dont need.

Thanks! that doesnt exactly make a whole lot of sence to me, but your a retired engineer ,and i'll take you word for it!

i just noticed this, didnt you mean raised boiling point and lowerd freezing point?

I have a friend who worked on one my cars way back when, and he topped the rad and engine with 100% coolant, and no water. I thought he was a jackass because he was saying water was your enemy. I always thought water is one of the best heat absorbers. I also made him drain half of the coolant back out and put water. was I, in fact the one who was a jackass? 100% cooalnt = good? pro's? cons?

hmm that looks familiar...... Q what pinout are you talking about? if your just talking about the wire colors and functions posted, I didnt get it from anyone. I made it! but if your talking about the rb25de/det wiring diagram, i got it from gweeds.net.

thanks 73zcar. i'l give that a try. grumpyvette, what is that thing? is it just a magnet? as for the the more anti freeze to water ratio, thats what i thought would be a good solution. although, people usually say run more water than coolant in the summer, and vice versa in the winter. It doesnt make much sence to me because coolant/antifreeze has a higher boiling point than water (almost 100 degrees celcius!) not only that, but coolant has stuff in it that prevents rust.

Ive seen exhaust in the coolant before, and im positive thats not my problem. Thanks though.

Outch. What a POS nissan casting. Who would have ever thought of the need of a forged T/B.

True, but maybe there's rust/sediments slugged up in the core. Im thinking its the core also because I had the same problem with me previous engine.

yeah i dont think i'll try it either. haha thanks anyway. I did talk to friend/ mechanic and he said with older cars suited with newer engines that have rusty coolant usually comes from the heater core, or radiator. Duh! makes sence. maybe i'll try flushing the heater core, or since its starting to warm up maybe i'll just disconnect it.

I noticed that with Iron blocks its seems almost imposible to get rid of the rust that forms in the cooling system. I used green prestone in my L28 and i still do with my new RB engine. However, after about 2000 miles the green coolant turns to sh*t brown. My stock radiator started leaking so im now replacing it with a new aluminum and i wanted to know: whats a good way to flush out the entire cooling system of the engine? what I usually do is run a water hose into engine with a clamp so that it generates pressure and flush it that way. Also, is there any additive i can add to my coolant to prevent rust in the water/coolant? should i go with Orange or green coolant? whats the Difference? and, what water to to coolant ratio should i go with? usually igo with 50/50. sugestions?

"1)When it rains is it true you get worse gas mileage? If so, why?" I would say Yes, your mile per gallon would decrease because there is slightly more resistance on all four tires. However, I don't think the rain has a substantial effect on MPG, unless that is your driving in a 1" puddle of rain. "3)How does humidity affect engine power output (and gas mileage)?" Humidity means that there is a tiny water molecules in the air. When driving in humidity, air, along with vapors, is drawn into the cylinders. Water is denser than oxygen which means that there is less potential to make power because there is slightly less oxygen and the water has taken up more of the "space" in the cylinders. Hope that makes sence, or correct in that matter!

Just curious, I'm not asking Why your swapping to RB25DET, but from your mods listed on your sig. shouldnt you have been in the 300 + hp range? any dyno numbers? what kind of engine management do you plan to run? Oh and dont forget about gauges!

14 cylinder? looked like an inline 10 to me? anyway, what in the world was this used for?! Cargo ship? lol.

Yes'ir..... I dont get it

Ohh no.... I think I just busted a nut in my pants.........

I'm curious, what is the purpose of the humps on the rockers covers on the RB25DEt's? Q, i'm guessing you took them off, anything under the humps?