sims76

I also emailed, but it bounced back. I live about 1 hour away in Philadelphia. I refuse to bid sight unseen and with this minimal description.

I was seriously considering this, but look around and you can find the AEM Single Channel UEGO for about $320. This includes the sensor and controller. The Techedge does beat the AEM in price and the fact that a display is included. IMO, either way is a fair value. I can't wait to plug one of these into my megasquirt setup and see how far off I have it tuned just using the wideband. Here is one for $327.25 http://www.import-store.com/aem_uego.htm Here is another for $319 http://www.hopupracing.com/aemugosiwiue.html

Sometimes it can be confusing when people advertise those with something like "MSD 6AL for 92 Mustang" or whatever. I think sometimes they include a harness that will basically plug into an existing harness somewhere on that specific vehicle, but the MSD box itself is the same.

Here are a bunch of pics from my megasquirt installation. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mls228/album?.dir=/Zcar&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/mls228 I have put approximately 7000 miles on this setup, with no problems.

Moby, Thanks for the nice writeup on MSS. I've stored my Z for the winter, but this gives me the next 4 or so months to collect the parts (or parts car) for a turbo conversion. I was looking into a retard box (MSD boost master), but then I realized that since I already am running the MS, why not just go to the squirt n spark... Did you start your tuning with a stock ignition curve? -Sims

Boyd, http://www.bgsoflex.com/mstach.html Read this carefully and follow the instructions. I may take you and evening of fiddling, but MS should correctly read your tach signal. Yes, you do trigger the MS of the (-) of the coil. You are on the right track. If you do these modifications to the MS tach input signal successfully, your stock tachometer in your dashboard will work as it always did, and the MS will read the correct RPM. I was unsuccessful getting MS to trigger correctly. If you install an MSD 6A box like I did, your tachometer in your dashboard will not work and you will need the tach adapter that MSD sells, but MS will still function correctly.

For the spacer.... http://www.jskinnovations.com or http://www.ebay.com

Calibrating the sensors is not difficult. Just use the "EasyTherm" program on the MS website. Chill them and measure resistance. Take another resistance at room temp. And another holding a heat gun or hair dryer to them. Boiling water will work too. This method worked for me. My calibration got them to within 5 degrees of the actual temperature. You must have a full range TPS and not the switch type. You will not believe how sensitive the driveability of your Z is to the acceleration enrichment, which is totally dependant on the TPS output. If I turn off accel. enrichment, I get a lean pop out the intake every time I try to accelerate.

Check out this link for pics of how I mounted my air temp sensor in the "homemade pvc cold air intake." http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mls228/lst?&.dir=/Zcar&.src=ph&.begin=9999&.view=t&.order=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mls228/lst%3f%26.dir=/Zcar%26.src=ph%26.view=t or this http://photos.yahoo.com/mls228

I bought eight new connectors off ebay for $25. Six for the injectors. One for the water temp sensor. One for the air temp sensor. They didn't have the nice boot over them so I made my own out of large heat shrink tubing. By the way, I'm using the stock Nissan water temp sensor and a KIA air temperature sensor (which incidentally accepts the nissan style connector.) IGNITION: I couln't get a good signal from the stock ignition. This was the last piece and I got lazy, so I bought an MSD 6A from summitracing.com. Works great. It took longer to mount it than it did to hook it up.

I'm running alternating, but didn't notice any difference the few times that I switched to simultaneous.

z-ya, I originally did not have resistors on my stock 2.4ohm injectors. I was using the PWM method. I fried my flyback circuit after about 20 minutes of running. Smoke literally came out of the MS box at my feet! I might have been able to tweak the PWM settings so that this wouldn't happen, but instead I installed resistors and turned off PWM: These were about $25 six 5 ohm (25 watt ) resistors from Digikey They look exactly like the ones on this page: http://members.shaw.ca/megasquirt/manual/minj.htm To answer your question.... Yes, I have three injectors on one driver and three on the other with one resistor inline with each injector. Funny thing that I found was when I dismantled the stock resistor pack. There was 2 resistors with a common ground and the other four shared a different common ground. I was going to re-configure these, but I cut all the wires from the leads only to find out that the metal posts on the stock resistor packs are not solderable. To save yourself $25, just use the stock resistor pack and turn off PWM.

I have been up and running with the MS for months now. No complaints, it's great. PLEASE somebody post your Megatune configuration files on the Yahoo website when you're finished. I know there are a few of us out there, but people don't seem to do this. I have posted mine here... http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt/files/Megatune%20settings/ I started by completely removing the FI harness and re-wiring from scratch. Time consuming, but not difficult. Make sure you have a factory service manual. You can see pics of some stuff at http://photos.yahoo.com/mls228 Good Luck, -Sims

I'm an EE. I do generation and transmission planning for a large power pool.

Eric, As long as you can handle the engine swap, you will be doing little if any extra work to get it to run on a turbo as far as megasquirt is concerned. When you go turbo, the car should theoretically run similar when off boost and you will just have to tune the boosted areas of the fuel map. One more thing, you will have to tell the megasquirt that you are using new injectors and it will automatically scale your Required Fuel value for you. That's it.

I used a 240sx TB and TPS for my megasquirt. It would only read from 3.5V to 5V. If you loosen the two screws that hold it on the TB, you can adjust it a few degress (that translates into volts to your SDS) either way. I found that I could not get the dynamic range close enough to 0-5V. What I did was take the two screws out and rotate it a few degrees more than the slots in the TPS would normall allow. By rotating it about another 45 degrees clockwise, you will see that you can then put the screws back in and they will wedge the TPS in place. (You will know what I mean when you see it.) My TPS now reads from about 0.5V at idle to 5V at full throttle -- good enough for megasquirt and probably good enough for SDS too. -Sims

I installed an MSD 6A last night. Using the tach output from there as input to the megasquirt, it started right up. I think I'll sleep for a few days now. -Sims

I am using Crane 8.5 mm wires that I bought a little over a year ago. I don't think they are the problem. They are advertised to be RF friendly. I have tried getting the tach input from the (-) side of the coil. No luck. I took the past two days to clean up the wiring while waiting on the MSD box. I also used a piece of 3" PVC pipe to put in place of the air flow meter that I'll no longer be using. The MSD 6a comes in the mail today. I'll report back on the results. I'm trying to be patient, but at the same time, I'm very eager to see it run. Here are the details that pertain to this project: 1976 280Z 2+2 Everything fuel/ignition related is stock unless otherwise noted Completely removed existing FI harness 240sx TB + full range TPS, Port matched intake to TB 4 wire Bosch NB O2 sensor welded into a MSA Header Stock dizzy/ignition that (hopefully) will trigger the MSD and use the MSD tach output as input to the megasquirt Stock 2.4 ohm injectors without dropping resistors (I setup for PWM) Stock water temperature sensor KIA air temperature sensor

Xander, I saw that you got your Z running through the Megasquirt Yahoo list. That's great, congratulations! Mine in installed and ready to go on my 280z as of last week, but I am having a heck of a time getting a good tach signal. I tried the resistance and capacitance changes in the tach input circuit that the manual suggests with no success. Tomorrow, I'm going to try a MSD 6a and use the "nice square wave" tach output that it has as the input to the MS, hopefully this will do the trick. Did you have to do any of the signal conditioning modifications to the tach input? There are some pics of my prep work here: http://photos.yahoo.com/mls288 Good luck and keep us posted, Mark