sims76

This doesn't exactly answer your question, but I feel this is still useful info for others. I went through the same thing looking for a good affordable high pressure pump for my turbo conversion. http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/fuelsystem.htm Check this site out. Following their advice, I visually identified a pump via ebay and bought it for $40. Find a bosch pump with the "long nose" and I'll bet a few bucks that they are all the same with just different part numbers. The one I bought was listed as "Ford Powerstroke fuel pump." It's installed and works great. You'll notice that many of the big name manufacturers re-package this same pump with a wide variety of prices.

Just some friendly discussion of the way I understand it ...is this correct? The CFM is dependant on the pressure ratio, the motor, and the RPM. For the same L28 at the same RPM at the same boost level, the CFM will be the same regardless of what turbo you are using. The only assumption is that both turbos are capable of maintaining the flow. At what RPM? A t3 60 trim will easily flow 200cfm, otherwise they couldn't maintain 7psi above 3250RPM. Please check a compressor map again on the above webpage and I think you'll see what I mean.

Disconnect the throttle linkage where the linkage coming out of the firewall meets the linkage on your intake. Have a helper hold the throttle plate open using the arm on the throttle body while you start it. Mark how far it should be open at idle. When you hook the linkage back up, if the throttle is not closing enough, you have found your problem without having to worry about the fast idle valve. -Sims

fatones, 7 psi coming out of the old stock turbo is the same 7 psi coming out of the newer, larger turbo with one exception.... The larger turbo is likely to be more effiecient than the stock turbo (check a compressor map to be sure). The temperature of the compressed air that the new turbo is putting out at 7 psi on the same motor will be cooler than the stocker. The answer is No, more air will not be "pushed into the engine" provided that you are at the same boost level. See some compressor maps here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/turbo/turbomaps/

I've had the same bolt shear on me. If you have access to a welder, tack another smaller bolt on to the sheared off bolt, then unscrew. Good luck, we all have shared your frustration at one time or another.

I also set my O2 correction switch point to 2 volts. This ended up with all of my air/fuel ratio's being in the 13's. I leaned out some of my cruise areas by hand. This was for the PLX Wideband. Your techedge might be different.

Moby, Here is a link for the RV8A1 Megatune Program. This one has the "Autotune" function and should work with the firmware that you're using. http://www.geocities.com/perboddum/megasquirt.html Play with the autotune settings so that it aggressively tries to tune the map. I tuned all of the non-full throttle areas of my map like this without a helper and it worked great. For full throttle, get a helper. Or, start conservatively rich and lean out as needed. By the way, I used your acceleration enrichment values and my car runs perfect now. Thanks, Sims

I should have been more specific. You can leave the Req_Fuel alone and scale the table. Or, change the Req_Fuel and leave the table alone. I would leave the Req_Fuel that you have and use the "Scale VE" button. Use the following logic: Old Req_Fuel = 12.8 (the value that I'm using) New Req_Fuel = 12.8 * (19lb/hr) / (your injectors in lb/hr) Example: Let's say you have 42lb/hr injectors. Old_Req_Fuel = 12.8 (my value) New Req_Fuel = 12.8 * (19/42) = 5.79 5.79 is 45.2% of 12.8. The program will multiply all of the values in my table by 45.2%.

Motorsport 6-1 headers Stock L28 compression ratio Schneider 274-F cam. 60MM TB Everything else is stock. The cam is too much when combined with the stock compression ratio, IMO.

Moby, See my other post with the new fuel map. This map is for 19lb/hr injectors. You can scale the table for your larger injectors. I'm using 2 squirts alternating. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=33313&highlight=

For those of you that run megasquirt, here is my updated Megatune *.msq file that I just finished tuning with my new PLX Wideband. I was constantly making adjustments last year without the wideband and never got it right. I was running 15+ air/fuel ratio at 4500 RPS's and up. Not good. This map is pretty good, 13's at full throttle and 14's everywhere else. It's for a non-turbo L28. Here is the linky to the Yahoo board where I uploaded the settings: http://f3.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/oNWFQAWw3pgFgZPWmOS4wK4z9HSj2do-T15GeQ7OpRwE39NlXL9P7bKS4zbuBxJk9_Gr7TDpgZs52vo5fipGdOANJvI/Megatune%20settings/Datsun_280z_nonturbo_19lb_injectors.msq EVEME 1.0 UserRev: 1.00 UserComment: Date: 04-20-2004 Time: 22:26 Page 0 VE Table RPM Range [ 8] [ 0] = 5 [ 1] = 10 [ 2] = 20 [ 3] = 30 [ 4] = 37 [ 5] = 45 [ 6] = 55 [ 7] = 65 VE Table Load Range (MAP) [ 8] [ 0] = 20 [ 1] = 30 [ 2] = 50 [ 3] = 65 [ 4] = 82 [ 5] = 90 [ 6] = 95 [ 7] = 100 VE Table [ 8][ 8] [ 0] [ 1] [ 2] [ 3] [ 4] [ 5] [ 6] [ 7] [ 0] = 52 58 60 57 52 52 41 41 [ 1] = 55 56 68 69 64 61 68 70 [ 2] = 52 56 59 69 81 86 85 79 [ 3] = 57 57 60 82 96 99 96 96 [ 4] = 60 58 72 88 96 95 103 103 [ 5] = 64 79 83 93 105 109 109 109 [ 6] = 70 88 98 108 112 127 125 113 [ 7] = 70 88 102 107 121 134 136 125

Moby, This may not be the best way, but this would be my approach. 1. Take note of manifold pressure at a constant idle rpm. 2. Spray some WD-40 where the intake meets the head. 3. If either the MAP or RPM change, there must be a leak. By the way, I ordered a HEI module from Sherco Auto Supply. I'm going to try the MSnS using the HEI as the trigger and a MSD 6A as the output. MSnS will be the middle man contolling the timing. I'll let you know how it turns out so you can update your sticky. -Sims

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mls228/album?.dir=/Zcar&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/mls228 Everything black in the engine bay is the POR-15. Like I said, better than nothing.

I went at my engine bay with a can of POR-15 and a cheap brush when the engine was out. I only had a few hours to get it done, there was no time to mask everything so spraying was out of the question. It's better than nothing.

Thanks guys, I'm glad you approve. I'm pretty sure that the "5 bolt flange" is misleading because it acually exits to a round 3 bolt flange just like the picture that Jersey has is his profile. I will call James tomorrow about porting the wastegate flapper. Jersey, Since my pending setup is so similar to yours, and since I'm somewhat close to you (Philadelphia)... Would you mind if I stopped by sometime to check out your setup? I have never had a ride in a turbo Z. Hint, hint, hint... -Sims

Here is what I went with for the turbo. Thanks for all of your input. I bought it from James http://www.speedshopthagard.com/ Garrett T3/TO4E Turbocharger Internal Wastegate w/5-bolt Flange Downpipe Flange Spacer 270deg Thrust Bearing TURBINE SPECIFICATIONS: T3 .63 A/R Housing Stage III Turbine Wheel COMPRESSOR SPECIFICATIONS: TO4E .60 A/R Housing With 3 Inch Inlet 50 Trim TO4E Compressor Wheel

Thanks for all the input. I will let you all know which way I go, and how it works out. I will be starting the install in a few weeks. It should go smoothly. I got my NPR last night, it is nice looking. My only comment is that the tubes are very small compared to the spearco I just saw. IMO, it's overkill on the surface area. But, for $225 almost new, the price is right and it will allow me to get my feet more than wet. Tony D: Yes, you are right. Having a capable fuel and ignition system has given me a "why not" attitude toward turbo charging. Two years ago, I said that I was happy with my current power level and I would never go turbo. Another comment about Megasquirt. I just finished helping a friend install an 8psi turbo kit on his Honda S2000 (11:1 comp ratio!) We did some tuning with a standalone EMS unit ($1200). Guess what? Other than more detail (and I'll argue that it's not needed for MOST applications) it looked and acted just like Megasquirt. Take care, Sims

Thanks Lockjaw, To give an example of what you just said, I believe this one would do the trick: http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gart3to460tr.html Also, I spoke with Alex Costa a.k.a. "Zcarsmakemyheadhurt" the other night (very nice guy) and he also suggested a similar setup. It also appears that "240Z Turbo" can supply this brand new with internal wastegate for $660. http://www.speedshopthagard.com/

I know this gets asked all the time, please don't flame me. I have never driven a turbo Z, so I am having trouble relating the technical specs of a turbo to how it actually feels and weather or not I will be happy with it. I have been collecting turbo conversion parts for the past 6 months in anticipation of doing the job in the Spring. Please assume everything is stock unless otherwise noted below. I also have all the parts in hand unless otherwise noted. My question to all of you: What is a reasonable HP goal for this setup? If this was your vehicle, what would you choose? Please suggest a turbo for me........ I feel that 300 RWHP is reasonable and I would like to size a turbo that meets that goal and that will work well with the rest of my setup. Here is what I have: Body: 1976 280Z 2+2 (weight 2850 lbs without me in it) Motor: Stock turbo motor with P90A head (stock Turbo Nissan Headgasket) Fuel Control: Megasquirt (I put 8000+ miles normally aspirated on the MS and I'm comfortable tuning it) Feedback: PLX Wideband O2 Sensor (still have to order this) Intercooler: Medium NPR (Like Jersey's new one) Intercooler Pipe Size: ?????? Suggestion ?????? Fuel Delivery: MKIII Supra O-ring Injectors @ 420CC/MIN Fuel Rail: Pallnet O-ring rail (still need to order from Pallnet) Fuel Pump: Ford Powerstroke Bosch Pump (it's the big Bosch style) Ignition: MSD 6A Ignition Control: Either MSD Boost Master or MSnS (preferred) Rear End: 3.90 gear ratio (can swap my 3.54 back if I'm unhappy) Downpipe: Two 90 degree 2.5" mandrel bends Exhaust: 3" Oil Cooler: Nope Thanks in advance, Sims

Moby, Great progress. Would you mind posting your Megatune *.msq file to the Yahoo Group? You will find my normally aspirated map there too. I have been following your progress closely as I have been running Megasquirt for over a year now with great success. As soon as I get my car out of winter storage, I will be performing a L28 turbo swap and I would like to use Megasquirt-N-Spark. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt/files/Megatune%20settings/ Thanks for your time, Sims

1. Check valve adjustment as suggested. 2. Make sure that there is no exhaust gas leaking from in between your head and exhaust manifold. Also check where your exhaust manifold meets your exhaust piping.

I just got back from lunch after looking for the same exact thing. My decision was to go with the silicone hose and call it a day. The silicone hose is what many manufacturers use for oil filter relocation & oil coolers. The temperature range is more than acceptable, and as a drain hose, it won't be seeing any pressure. Just stay away from heater hose.

I have a few thousand miles on mine too...

I bought a set off ebay for a turbo conversion. They are o-ring injectors. One interesting thing is that they are the "Lucas" style disc injectors...no pintile cap to break. Also the 3rd gen supra injectors are 420cc/min. I will be contacting Pallnet soon for one of his fuel rails....

Here was my approach...