sims76

I did three pulls. I'm very pleased, but I have some more tuning to do. I will put the video up next week, you can see the dyno plots below... **** Here's the Video **** Here's the video link...low quality but you get the point. If the link doesn't work, it's in Hybridz > Video section. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto....&cat=509&page=1 ********************* Boost rose from 11 at the beginning of the pull to 14 on all three. I had the total timing under boost set to 20 degrees. My wideband said I was < 10:1 AFR for all three pulls, I think there is a lot more HP and TQ hidden in there when I get it re-mapped to about 11.5:1 AFR and maybe up the timing 3-4 degrees. Pull 1: 226HP / 270TQ Pull 2: 231HP / 273TQ Pull 3: 245HP / 278TQ I was leaning it out for each pull, but the highest the AFR got was around 10.3:1. Long story, but I found my map sensor line cracked last week. This threw off my whole map and I just didn't get it close enough in time for this test. The ACT Clutch held just fine. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/1st_pull.jpg http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/2nd_pull.jpg http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/3rd_pull.jpg 1st Pull: 2nd Pull: 3rd Pull:

Consult this page for more help... http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html The only thing I notice right off the bat is that factory 81-83 factory turbo heads were P90 or P90a with square exhaust ports. Two of the setups below list round ports....

To summarize below, the STOCK clutch & flyweel is 225mm for all coupes and 240mm for all Turbos and 2+2's. From the Datsun Z Garage Webpage... http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html * If it's 225mm wide then you have a coupe version * If it's 240mm wide then you have a 2+2/turbo version

Yo Vinh, I'm actually out here in the King of Prussia area. I would like to come down to South Philly sometime to check out your Z's. I appreciate your great attention to detail, because that is something I need to work on. Think back about 16 months ago....we spoke on the phone a few times about a turbo motor your friend was selling. Obviously I did end up with a turbo setup, I hope you did eventually sell yours for a decent price. I've also seen your "Bruce Lee" Z in Chinatown a few times. I have many asian co-workers and they have me hooked on the good food down there. My email is mls228 "AT" gmail.com I'll send you my phone number also.

I have been running 12 PSI with spikes to 14. I have been unable to get boost below 12. I remounted my wastegate actuator and have been preparing to pressure test the actuator and port the w/g hole in the turbine housing and add a bigger flapper, etc.. Solution: I have my w/g signal line and my BOV signal line teed off the same port on the intake manifold. I never thought to remove the BOV signal line as a test. I did that today at lunch and the boost held to about 8PSI. PERFECT! I can't believe I didn't think of this sooner. This tells me that the BOV signal line may bleed off some pressure causing my w/g actuator to see a lower pressure than the intake manifold itself, therefore allowing a higher pressure in the manifold. Argh... ****** EDIT ****** I spoke too soon. Now that I have reconnected the BOV with it's own dedicated line and manifold and done the same to the w/g actuator hose, I'm back to 12PSI. The only change since before was that I reconnected the BOV. I'm stumped, how can this raise boost? ****** SECOND EDIT ***** To answer my own question, running with the BOV port vented to atmosphere can cause the BOV to leak because it doesn't have the extra pressure holding it closed under boost. It was basically acting like a stock pop off valve. Finally decided to pressure test the actuator and found that it doesn't open until 12PSI. I was under the impression that it was a 7PSI actuator. Conclusion: The w/g actuator is working as designed by opening at 12PSI. So I went ahead and ordered the 7.5 PSI Dual Port Turbonetics unit from http://www.jegs.com I apologise for the excessive editing, but this info may help someone else someday...

Thanks jmortensen, I didn't even know they existed. My Chevy buddy was surprised that I didn't replace that (referring to his GM transmission) and I was confused because I never read that about the nissan trans, but now I know.

I'm leaking a little fluid out of my transmission where the driveshaft mates with the transmission. This has been keeping up the past few days since I changed the clutch. It is not coming from the speedo cable. I still have the shift boot out and can see it collecting there. Are there any serivceable seals on that end of the trans that I should have paid attention to? I put in the reccomended 1.6L of fluid, but didn't drain it using the drain plug, because I just let it drain out of the end of the trans until the fluid stopped coming out. If I now have 1.6L plus possible extra fluid in there, would this cause the leaking I'm experiencing?

Boosted, This is just for the record as I have just installed an ACT Clutch myself.... http://www.advancedclutch.com/images/ACT_Install_Instruct.pdf "7. Adjust the clutch release system by following the manufacturer’s procedures and specifications. Recommended break in for ACT Street Discs is 200-300 miles of mild street driving. Break in period for the ACT Race Disc can be accelerated by performing several hard slips in high gear prior to racing. Allow the clutch to cool for about 10 minutes between these slips to prevent overheating. The purpose is to lap the surfaces together under controlled load so the full surface makes contact."

Thanks Loose Screws. Yes, the compound bow analogy is a very good way to describe it. Your video is great. I have been playing it a few times a week because I'm having "track envy." (I haven't made it to the strip or dyno yet with the new setup.)

My experience is not with a V8 swap, but I can relate to your situation. Five years ago, I didn't know what any of the parts were under the hood or how they worked. By reading this site, taking my time, and reading this site some more I've progressed to upgrading the brakes, suspension, rear end, transmission, turbo engine transplant, and megasquirt EFI installation. I'm even weld a little too. What I'm saying is all the answers are here and for the few that are not, you just have to ask. Take your time, budget your money if necessary, and just go for it. Don't give up, you can work through just about anything that comes up. The feeling of driving a vehicle that you built (or at least disassembled and re-assembled) is awesome.

The 11/16" 1988 Nissan Pathfinder slave was the first to get here in the mail today from http://www.rockauto.com It was $18 shipped. I installed it, bled it, and viola.... clutch disengages/engages about 2-3" from the floor. I'm having trouble imagining if this is a comfortable spot or not because my old clutch had a much more "linear" feel. This clutch clearly has a point of high resistance and then when you pass that, the pedal pressure decreases. I'm going to take the night off from working (still have to put the driveshaft & exhast back on) and drive it tomorrow. If all is well I'll likely return the 7/8" Tilton MC that I ordered. THANKS for the assistance guys. DYNO results coming as soon as it's broken in!!!!

Ivan, See my links above for both the ft/lbs and $$$. My kit (street disc - Non puck type) was about $350 and is rated for 400ft/lbs.

Everything is not perfect, the ACT will not disengage. I've bleed the crap out of it and adjusted the MC rod and still no luck. I had a friend push in the clutch pedal fully while I jammed a bolt in between the fork and the bell housing so that the fork couldn't return to resting position. Now on the second pump of the pedal, the cluch disengages. I marked this spot. It only needs about another 3/16" of movement to disengage fully. This only works because I don't have a boot on the clutch fork right now. I did order a Tilton 7/8" MC from Summitracing.com. Part # TIL-74-875U for $67. Looks like the 11/16" 1988 Nissan Pathfinder slave cylinders can be had for less than $20. I'll be investing in one of those too. Thanks for this info Jersey, I would be on the verge of tears right now without it. (This is the second time in 3 days that I've pulled the flywheel, clutch, PP, and trans.) Will this combo get me the extra 3/16" of SC travel that I need????

Coming from you Drax I guess I'll restrain myself and perform the reccomended break in. Nuff said.

It makes sense that launching is a bad idea with a fresh clutch. But intuitively I'm thinking that a few dyno pulls wouldn't be as stressful because hard shifting/launching is not part of the process? I'm asking because I will have my new ACT clutch in next week as soon as I get my flywheel back from the machine shop. It will take me a few weeks to get 500 miles of stop and go on it and I'm anxious to finally get to the dyno for my first pull ever on the new setup.

This may not even be in the ballpark, but... SAFETY? Looks like a little too much oversteer in that turn and a couple of people will get taken out.

Thanks Jersey, I will definitely check the fork for stress cracks. I'm tired now, just got done taking the rear out (swapping my 3.54 back in place of the 3.9) and dropped the tranny (and about a quart of fluid all over the floor.) Good to hear that the pedal increase is significant. Here's the link to a site that lists my part # with description... http://www.nipponpower.com/drivetrain/clutch/act_nissan_260z.html Although, I ordered from Courtesy Nissan... http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=NX2-HDSS&Category_Code=

I got the NX2-HDSS kit....no reference to Exedy anywhere on it. The PP is samped with "Made in the USA" and it does have four thick springs on the disc as you described. How much more pedal feel will I have with this thing? Currently my clutch pedal feels almost too light, I almost want it to be stiffer.

I just got the same clutch in the mail today...I'll check mine when I get home.

In Megatune, you need to go to TOOLS >> CALIBRATE TPS and then follow the instructions. I have a 60MM TB and have recently found that MAPDOT runs the car much much much smoother. With TPSDOT, bumps on the highway would trigger the accel enrichment. I couldn't find a happy medium with the TPSDOT. *** EDIT *** Just re-read your post and realized you alredy tried calibrating. Give MAPDOT a try. Good luck, -Sims

I bought a Schneider NA cam from these guys. They also advertise custom grinds on their website. http://www.flatlanderracing.com/

I second RRE, I bought all my hoses and bends from them. They had the best prices I could find at the time. I just noticed the funny comment on the bottom of their hoses page... "Tuning Tip: Red is a good color for all around performance, however with a big turbo blue gets upwards of 10 hp, unless you have stock cams, then only 5 hp. Purple is best for bottom end power, mix with red for excellent mid-range. For NT cars, shift all recommendations one hue towards a warmer color. Yellow hose should only be used on high compression NTs or turbo cars with welded differentials. Proper Sticker Tuning can be a successful work around for any of these concerns. ;-P"