sims76

Finally got it running and drove it for an hour.... I took my car off the road on April 14th, expecting this turbo and MSnS conversion to take a few weeks. I was previously running MS on an NA motor. Five months and a complete turbo motor swap later I finally got to drive it tonight. I did all the work myself. This is the second time in my life that I have ever driven a turbo car, the other being a friend's Honda S2000 that we installed a turbo kit on. What a rush, when the boost hits, it feels like someone just threw a few hundred pounds out the window. Moby, I used your fuel and ignition map and didn't have to change anything. I was expecting to have to tweak the fuel map, but the PLX Wideband was displaying a healthy 12.x:1 to 13.x:1 AFR under boost and everywhere else under throttle. Good map, thanks! I am using a 81 NON turbo distributor. I am not using the E12-92 module that came with it. I tapped the pickup inside the dizzy and used a 1330 ohm pullup resistor to 12V. I couldn't get a signal with either the Nissan Module or the GM HEI module. Go figure. This resistor has to be 1330 ohms in my application. Any more, no signal during cranking. Any less, severe RPM spikes. I am using a 470 ohm resistor for R10 on the MS board. I have to check my intake piping (intercooler not installed yet) because the turbo sounded very loud and my passenger thought I had a blow off valve, even though I don't. Air must have been leaking. Questions: 1. I don't have any boost controller installed. I am using a T3/T04E turbo with the wastegate actuator that James supplied with it. The boost rises very quickly and pegs at 11 psi. Can I thread the wastegate actuator rod out to lower the maximum boost? I want to run around at < 10 PSI until I install the Spearco sitting in the corner. Can't wait to drive it again tomorrow. -Sims Here's Some pics... PLX WIDEBAND SPEARCO 2-221 WIRING THAT I WILL CLEANUP TOMORROW 440CC DSM INJECTORS AND PALLNET FUEL RAIL

Everything you need to know can be found on these two sites.... http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html http://home.att.net/~jason510/

Update: I had installed a replacement #6 piston, turns out I didn't make my measurements carefully enough and put a smaller piston in there and it was slapping around in the cylinder like crazy when I finally got it running. It ran smooth and sounded fine (other than the severe piston slap.) I also had a good amount of oil in that cylinder. I have it all apart again and should be back on the road in another week or two. This is turning into Bastaad's car....

I got nice SS clamps from a local hydraulic shop as well. About $2.50 per clamp. I bought every 2.5" clamp they had.

I think it may run well enough to drive it tonight.... 1. I found that my trigger works best when not using the HEI as a filter. I'm just tapping the stock VR sensor with a 1k pullup. Also, I had to put 190 ohms (very low) at R10 on the MS board. 2. I had to advance all of the spark plug wires one position on the distributor cap. This solved many headaches. Here's some photos.... Oil drain: 2.5" downpipe into 3" exhaust. Please hold the comments on my welding... Pallnet fuel rail with MSD 2222 FPR and 440cc/min DSM injectors T3/T04E Turbo and Oil Feed (thanks James) Oil Tap at block: Dynomax Bullet with 3" Pipe Overhead Shot: Me confused and reading Moby's MSnS Sticky:

This might sound militant, but I think it might help. Prevent new users from starting new threads until they have been a member for a few weeks/months. This way, they can't get a membership and start creating repetitvie threads immediately. It will force them to use the search function because they won't be able to come right out and ask the question. I believe this is not excessive because most of the answers to mods to hybrid z's are already here in the archives.

I think MSA sells rebuilds from these folks http://http://www.atkengines.com/ Not 100% sure, but I think they actually mentioned it in one of thier previous catalogs.

http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=zClassifieds&file=detail&cat=72&de=526 I'm selling mine for $200 in very good condition....

Original post edited. Mike's suggestion is much better (and cheaper) overall. If you have some spare change, I would suggest buying 50 or 100 crimp connectors of all types and a few hundred feed of some wire from Waytek. You may only need a few for this project, but you WILL eventually use all of them. Radio Shack is only good in a pinch (expensive).

Use a terminal strip... http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=274-658 and a jumper... http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=274-650 Also get some spade connectors... http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=64-3124 That terminal strip doesn't look it, but is very flexible and can be mounted on uneven metal. Good luck.

The fuel pump only gets voltage when the engine is cranking or running. More specifically, whenever air is going through the air flow meter. Check out this page (not mine). http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

I fixed the link above. This is the file that I used for my car. I tuned it with a wideband O2 meter.

Use this file: Datsun_280z_nonturbo_19lb_injectors.msq from the following page.... http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt/files/Megatune%20settings/ This Megatune settings file is what I have used in my car and others on this board have had success with it also. You might want to give it a try or at least examine the startup values. Maybe you're not in the ballpark. Good luck, Sims

Nice harness Tim, I can also vouch for these guys. I bought a harness from them for $60, that is much nicer than I could ever make myself. http://www.a-e-a.com./new_page_2.htm

Done...

Thank you all... I like the driver's side windsheild cowl idea the best. Will look into the fender wall under the battery cover as option #2. This gauge is patiently waiting... 240sx TB from JeffP with JSK Spacer and Pallnet o-ring fuel rail (not shown)

This is for the MSnS turbo project I'm working on... To aviod running wires all the way into the cockpit, I mounted the MSD box and HEI module right above it on the fender. I did mount the HEI to a heat sink that also serves as the ground. Opinons? Will the heat from the turbo cook these? I also made a simple heat sheild out of sheet metal to protect the brake master and the terminal strip that I mounted there. The turbo should be shipped tomorrow. I know I said I would be finished in two weeks about two months ago, but this time I mean it. Thanks guys, Sims

Last year at Englishtown, NJ. I was demonstrating the Megasquirt to someone in the NJ Zcar Club. Ran a 16.3....I wonder what it will do after the turbo swap is finished....

I know this guy that put a sticker on his hybrid and gained +5 HP. Sorry, couldn't resist. I'd be in for a hat and a sticker.

Using an HEI module as an ignition amplifier might be an inexpensive way to find out if this is your problem. I was unable to get a good signal with any of the MS tach mods. Right now, I'm using a MSD unit as the trigger. For MSnS, I'm going to use an HEI as the trigger/amplifier, and MSD to deliver the spark. Good luck, this is a very frustrating part of the install. http://www.sherco-auto.com/ignition.htm

I agree Taffy. When programming Megasquirt for the first few times, I sometimes had trouble telling the difference when the AFR was way too lean or way too rich. The narrow band measurement did help in this case. For any other measurement, it is pretty much useless like you said. After I installed the PLX M-300, I found out how wrong my butt dyno and narrow band tuning was. 16:1 AFR at 500RPM, ouch. One of the members here sells the M-300 for approximately $310 including shipping.

I used a narrow band for two years. Better than nothing. If you are on a tight budget, get a narrowband sensor and gauge. It will help. If you have the money, I also reccomend the PLX wideband. Don't forget that you don't need a gauge with this one because it's built into the controller. Plus, if you don't like it, they have good resale value. Or, if you ever go programmable EFI, you already have a good sensor to use.

I have used various laptops with: Win2k Win98SE WinXP

Pete, That's great, I'm happy to see that someone successfully used those settings. I would like to claim some great tuning intuition, but the truth is that I let Megasquirt autotune itself for most of the table and then just tweaked the WOT by watching the PLX Wideband meter. How was the driveability? Did you have to play with the accel bins at all? -Sims

...Should be about another 2-3 weeks without rushing. Here is an old post where you all helped me choose a turbo. I went with a T3/T04E 50 Trim from James T. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=32488&highlight= I welded the weights and plate in my distributor so they don't move the magnetic pickups anymore. I turned the distributor by hand and the coil was crackling like crazy every time a tooth on the reluctor went by the magnetic pickup. I'm using a HEI module between the pickup in the distributor and the MSnS box as a filter/amplifier. MSD6A will finally deliver the spark when it gets the trigger from MSnS. Hopefully, the trigger is still accurate. I replaced a piston that had damage from what looked like a foreign body. James T tapped my oil pan. P90 head is on. New timing chain & sprokets. Pallnet O-ring fuel rail. Boost gauge. The list goes on. I've been busy and I'm starting to get excited. Does anyone know where I can get OVAL injector connectors to fit the 92 Supra Turbo Injectors I'm using? I have had no luck finding them. This is the only part I need to finish this project. Thanks! Sims