sims76

I have had the exact same problem in the past with no tach noise for a few days and then severe irregularity a few days later (especially when the engine is warmed up.) I have tried every pullup resistor, R10, and Dave Cap combination possilble. The problem was never compeletely fixed with my stock 76 VR Sensor in the distributor. I understand your frustration. I ended up buying a crank pulley with three magnets already mounted in it from someone over at zcar.com for $100. I then ordered samples of hall sensors from http://www.allegromicro.com for free. I now have no triggering problems at all. Nice clean signal. I'm not sure they have samples available anymore, and I have one more spare. If you need it let me know and I can drop it in the mail for you.

A quick note on my setup....I have the relay board (heat friendly) in the engine bay and the MS ECU (not heat friendly) in the cockpit.

Right now I'm running my recent turbo setup at 12PSI and the stock 240MM clutch/pp is slipping like crazy in 1st and 2nd gear if I nail it and also at the top of 3rd. I read all of Jersey's, Bastaad's, and Moby's posts and decided to order an ACT Clutch setup from Courtesy Nissan. "ACT Clutch Kit w/ HD Pressure Plate and Modified Street Disc 79-86 ZX Turbo" Right now I'm running a 3.90 rear. I put this in when I was NA. Should I put my 3.54 rear back in there now that I am running a turbo setup?????? Any comments welcome. I'm also going to the local Dynojet next week, wish me luck. Just for fun, here are datalogs with no clutch slip and with the clutch slipping. NO SLIP SLIPPING BAD

I think what Tony is saying is that the original tach wire (which should find it's way all the way up to the - of the coil) is not part of the injection harness and should still be there, assuming you didn't remove it also.

Thanks Clifton and Bastaad, I did pull the housing just to check the condition of the flapper and it was fine. No safety valve as I using a 76 intake. I have a threaded WG arm, so I loosened it a turn and will try again tomorrow (it's raining now). I'll report back.

I took a few hours and made a decent WG actuator bracket out of 1/8 steel stock....It looks like crap because I'm a terrible welder, but at least it's sturdy. Took it out for a spin, and still no boost. I came back, fixed the IC pipe that slipped off. I took it back out and carefully did a 3rd gear pull. HOLY CRAP, 12psi no problem. The car surged forward like a rocket! I didn't floor it because I'm not sure that it was going to stop at 12psi and I didn't have a passenger to watch the AFR and boost gauge. I think I now have too much pre tension on the WG actuator arm. I will loosen it a turn and hopefully have regulated boost tomorrow. I'll then put the MBC back on and work my way back up.

Jersey, I don't have a POV, I'm using my stock '76 intake. I didn't even consider the BOV (1G DSM) because everything I've read says they are good to 12PSI or so before you have to even think about crushing them. I will consider this also, maybe I'll plug the outlet of the bov so It can't vent as a test. I'll double check the IC connections. They seem well and I'm using sturdy ss T clamps. Thanks for the input. Here is more food for thought...a datalog that I took a few days ago.... From this you all can see the boost response (the lavendar "MAP" line). Is this response typical of a wastegate regulating or a leak? By the way 136kpa on the MAP signal is approximately 5PSI. Ignore the A/F ratio line, it's skewed because of the datalogging interpreter. It stays at 11.1 - 11.8 under boost.

My setup has been running GREAT at 6PSI. I am very happy, but of course still want to turn up the boost. Even at 6PSI, I can smoke em through first and part of second (impossible with my previous NA setup.) Question #1: I was unable to up the boost using a MBC, so I disconnected the vacuum line to the wastegate actuator and took it for a ride (carefully watching the boost gauge) to see if I could get it over 6PSI. Same boost as before. This tells me that the wastegate actuator was never moving and the wastegate puck was likely in a slightly open position (I do have it mounted at an odd angle) causing a constant leak that regulated boost to 6PSI. Correct? Question #2: I removed the wastegate actuator and put as much tension as I could on the wastegate puck arm using cable ties, but then I could only get about 2PSI. How much tension is required? I had the arm pulled pretty tight. Tonight, I'm going to re-mount the actuator in a better location so that It can put a lot of tension on the puck arm. I hope this solves my problem.

EZ-E, Don't forget longer studs for the exhaust manifold. The stock studs aren't long enough for a 1/2" spacer. I bought new studs and nuts from http://www.mcmaster.com/

Zguy, They are batch fired, all at once. The following link is a good read about the reality of batch vs sequential. http://www.sdsefi.com/techseq.htm

Xander, GREAT post. I've been working on the same thing, using a very similar sensor. However, I mounted the magnets in my crank dampener. I made a very ugly bracket (out of steel - DOH!) that looked functional, but wouldn't work. I have since made another braket out of aluminum that should work fine. I got free samples of "Allegra" or "Allegro" hall sensors from the net. They delivered 5 of them for free in 2 days. I like your idea of drilling out a bolt. Have you bench tested it? Let us know, nice work. -Sims

I run those Supra 440cc/min injectors and Pallnet fuel rail in my car. No machining required. I did have to get some smaller seals for where the injectors meet the manifold. The ones that come with the injectors and fit the supra are too large in diameter to fit in the injector bung holes on the Nissan intake manifold.

http://www.speedshopthagard.com/ Try the phone # on his website, he's usually very responsive.

I ran megasquirt on my NA Z for over a year with no problems. This year, I did a megasquirt n spark conversion and turbo swap. It took me a few hours to re-tune and that was it. I highy recommend megasquirt, the fundamentals you will learn are invaluable. DO IT.

No problem Bastaad, I'll PM you my number. Wish you guys were local so we could get together.

ON3GO, I lurk around here alot and run MSnS with a turbo swap and stock NA dizzy. If you want, just PM your phone number and I can give you a call. It's hard to type what can take a few minutes to explain. -Sims

Owen, Here is the best I can describe in words: Before the BOV installation after a shift: shoosh shoosh shoosh shoosh shoosh After the BOV installation after a shift: psssssssssssst

I don't mean to hijack this post, but I have a technical question... My Z sounded like that after the turbo swap but before I installed the BOV. I thought that shoosh shoosh shoosh sound after shifts was "compressor surging." Is that correct?

Haha, I can also verify that they're sturdy. I will be looking for a much quiter muffler in the future. It's Part # WLK-24222 from http://www.summitracing.com Muffler, Race Bullet, 3 in. Inlet/3 in. Outlet, Aluminized Steel, Each They may look like glasspacks, but the Race Magnum Bullet mufflers are made just for racing. Compact and lightweight, the Bullets have a 360 degree welded outer shell and a straight-through, wrap-welded, perf-tube design for maximum flow and minimum power loss. Vendor Dynomax Performance Exhaust Product Line Dynomax Race Magnum Bullet Mufflers Universal Yes Internal Construction Perforated tube Muffler Material Steel Muffler Finish Aluminized Inlet Diameter (in) 3 Inlet Location Center Inlet Quantity Single Outlet Diameter (in) 3 Outlet Location Center Outlet Quantity Single Case Shape Round Case Length (in) 12 Overall Length (in) 16 1/2 Thickness (in) (Not Specified) Width (in) (Not Specified) Case Outside Diameter (in) 4 Outlet Style (Not Specified) Quantity Sold individually. Notes (Not Specified)

It's pretty loud. Dynomax Bullet Muffler, about $30 from Summit. Before I welded it on, it fell off on a test drive. I hardly noticed a difference.

Here's an interesting Megasquirt datalog that I took this morning on the way to the inspection station. Keep in mind that I do not have an intercooler and I have the air filter stuck right on the turbo inlet. Very Hot!!! Notice how the air intake temperature is reasonable (ambient was about 80 degrees F) until the water warms up and the thermostat opens and the radiator gets hot. Keep in mind that I calibrated this sensor myself using temperature/resistance pairs so it may be off a little, but it seems to be accurate within 10 degrees F in my experience. Just thought I'd pass this along. Time to install the intercooler and put the intake in front of the radiator where it belongs. -Sims

Bastaad, Good catch. I spoke with James yesterday and he warned me of the same thing. I'm going to re-tune for 11.2:1 - 11.6:1 under boost. For now, I'm still using Moby's ignition map and have not changed anything. By they way, I just dropped the Z off at the inspection station this morning. I have been driving it at night to get it streetable enough to pass inspection. Please keep your fingers crossed for me. I only drove it 800 miles last year because of all of this turbo stuff, so it is exempt from emissions inspection, which is a bonus. -Sims

This is an executable file that gives you information on different combinations. http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=Downloads&file=index&req=getit&lid=5

Thanks guys, I just want to have some fun with it for now. For the intercooler, RRE Sells them.... http://www.roadraceengineering.com/intercoolers.htm Top End Performance also sells them, but I have read some horror stories about their customer service. http://www.racetep.com The turbo is a T3/T04E 54 trim.