JustinOlson

I'm just curious if a 4 linked or ladder bar rear suspension has a tendency to squat and leave that much harder then a IRS suspension car. I guess JNJ and RIP are both IRS and have wheelie troubles as well. Justin

Are you out of the carbon fiber business palo? Justin

Why do all the back halved cars wheelie so bad? Is it just the size of tires that they are able to run? Or is it that they hook that much harder? Justin

Just found this picture showing the addition of rare earth Sm2Co17 magnets to the back of a HKS cam gear. With the addition of this trigger wheel and a a hall effect sensor one can do away with the factory GE distributor and factory cams. Regards, Justin

So at the limit does the car push? How has the handling changed from when you had equal width front and rear? Justin

Here you are: http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/board/viewtopic.php?id=26285 Regards, Justin

Yeah, Its bad ass! Justin

Just saw this and I love. I really want a first gen celica now

If you weren't going to modify a Z car, what car would you choose to hybridize and modify? Do you guys have other projects that aren't datsuns? Just looking for some ideas for a non datsun project. I've been looking at the following for my next project/driver: Audi Coupe Quattro: BMW 2002: Nissan S14: VW MK2 GTI(already have a couple of these): MG MGB-GT: Lexus SC300: E30 325 coupe with 2JZ Regards, Justin

Clifton any sense of the savings of a fiberglass door vs a gutted factory door? Are you doors hinged or pinned on? Thanks, Justin

Do they still make them? Justin

My R230 TT diff and axels should be here tomorrow. Once I have the coin, I'm throwing down the money for this setup! Justin

Clifton, Thanks for the video!! Did you make the fiberglass doors? Justin

Yeah, you can even do a PDA interface I believe. Its a lot like a SAFC I guess. It just is pretty advanced and has lots of control. Justin

Just throwing these pictures up in here so I keep everything together... I am not making much progress, but these pictures are kinda cool to check out....

Mmm, I see. Maybe I'll be able to control the Auxilary Timing control unit as well. I really don't know much about the Unichip or the L28 ECU honestly. I have a friend that is very good with them that is going to help me go through the install and tune. Is there a pinout for the timing control unit? Justin

Mmm, I see. Maybe I'll be able to control the Auxilary Timing control unit as well. I really don't know much about the Unichip or the L28 ECU honestly. My cousin used to be the head engineer/developer over at unichip so he's going to step me through this. Justin

Looks good! Justin

I have a 77 280z with a factory rebuilt motor. I got a free unichip to put on my car. I found the pinout below searching through the forum. I just wanted to make sure this is the correct pinout for my 280z L28. The Unichip Q is basically a piggy back computer. It allows you to retain the factory ECU yet go to larger injectors and pull back the pulse width (You can't really add pulse width. Most applications you go to a larger injector and pull out injector open times to achieve the proper Air Fuel ratio). It can also do timing control, but I'm not sure how much I can do with my distributor. I will be pulling the factory mass air flow sensor and going to a MAF out of a Subaru impreza (have one lying around so its free to me). Also, I have to add a air temp sensor. I'm going to use my Innovate LC1 to tune it http://www.unichip.us/unichip_features.asp Here's the pinout/color/purpose in a 280z. 1/B/Coil (actually goes to the 4-pin connector, more on that later) 2/B/TPS #2 3/B/TPS #3 4/G/Start signal to stock ECU not used in Megasquirt 5/B/ Ground 6/B/ AFM #6 7/B/AFM potentiometer 8/B/AFM 9/B/AFM 10/L/Switched 12VDC from ignition relay...more on this cluster later 11/not used 12/B/to altitude switch-not used in megasquirt 13/B/H20 temperature sensor signal...2500 ohms at 80 deg F 14/B/Injector #4 switching pulse 15/B/Injector #1 16/L/GROUND..has a bit of yellow paint on the end 17/L/GROUND..has a bit of WHITE paint on the end 18/B/TPS middle wire (I put this to ground on MS-II) 19-not used 20-not used 21-G/Cold start injector 12VDC comes from 4-pin connector Can be reutilized as in my install 22-not used 23 thru 26 also not used 27/B/AFM 28 and 29 not used 30/B/Injector #5 31/B/Injector #6 32/B/Injector #3 33/B/Injector #2 34/G/Air regulator 12VDC lead I reutilized this (without the 12VDC naturally) 35/L/ GROUND..has a red mark on the end by the "DB-35"(datsun-bullcrap 35pin) connector

I dont have the money or time for another project, but its forsale here (No Affiliation with seller): http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/548136791.html

That looks so clean!! Why not get a bit bigger turbo while you have it all apart?

Did you open the fender well with a BFH? Justin

I imagine this is on 28X9 like before. What has to be done to the fender directly in front of the tire to gain clearance? Looks like it is awfull close and must get closer on the top end due to tire grow. Ever have any problems with this? Regards, Justin

Looking at getting this car and fixing the rust issues. Justin

I think it looks good! The gap behind the back of the tire is kinda weird to me. Must just be the angle of the side view. Justin