boardkid280z

Nice, I always thought those were cool. Make sure to post pics when you get it. You say "my project" as if you have just one.

Looking great Frank, good luck on everything! It looks like you're getting it mostly figured out. My T/SC project has slowed down a bit, but now that we're moved, and I got rid of my little VW Bug-gy project I had taking up garage space, maybe I can focus on my Z again. Of course, changing the radiator, needing new brake rotors, and busting a half-shaft U-joint don't help much in the progress/finance department . Now I am definitely going to have to look you up next time I am in Belgium.

I liked tehm in the valance - reminds me of the Renault Clio V6:

price = free?

One thing to consider is getting cooler/fresh air to the filter, on the turbo inlet side. Reducing those inlet temps before the air is compressed will help keep the air more cool and therefore dense after the turbo. Also, agreeing with Tony, #2 would be better than #1 because you are not "potentially" reheating the air in the engine compartment after it has passed through the intercooler. And from reading Corky Bell's Boost book, #3 intercooler is better then the #1/#2 intercooler because: the path the air has to travel through the IC core is shorter which helps reduce pressure drop across the intercooler, but the IC has a similar crossflow area, so your cooling efficiency is about the same. Also less piping is less volume to pressurize, another reason I will never make my piping larger than 2.5inches diameter. What does Austin do with his filter/air intake? Just a cone filter on the turbo or is there some piping there too? I would like to see pics of your setup too, dapiper! Datalog would be great too, does that include temps? or just pressures?

I wouldn't call those oil ports "oval" per se. The top one is small round and in the middle of a diamond flange, the bottom oil drain port is squarish with rounded corners in the middle of an "oval" flange. Square drain port needs to be basically straight down, flowing downhill to the oil pan. The threaded ports are indeed the water coolers. Pretty sure inlet/outlet doesn't matter. Clock those housings to your hearts desire.

Video!>!?!?!11!!

Man that looks good, can't wait to see it in paint!

Hey man, where did you get those pics of that Lancia. I love those cars, but there aren't many websites around for them. Did you see one IRL?

Yea, I've been running Megasquirt for a year now and feel totally comfortable with the tuning part. Everything that needs to be upgraded is going to be upgraded. I'm just on a tight budget here.

Well 300 is the minimum I am shooting for. I know people say to pick a "hp" goal and shoot for it, but I'll just be wanting more when I reach a goal, so whatever I can afford is what I'm shooting for. And if I can get 350hp out of 200$ pistons instead of having to pay $600 for forged pistons for 400hp+ I might just go with the cheap pistons for now. Addendum: Should I get them ceramic coated or whatever?

Anyone have any opinions or experiences with this set of 89mm dished pistons made to overbore the L28 Turbo from 86mm to 89mm. I thought about finding some 87-88mm forged dished pistons to overbore my block for my supercharged project, but if these are good enough I might do this instead. He claims that this set of cast pistons is just as good as or better than forged for street apps. "Forged pistons require large clearances with the cylinders since they expand far more than cast pistons when they get hot. If your engine doesn’t stay at race temps then this is bad. Large piston clearance at street temps is noisy, causes blowby, serious ring wear, and massive oil consumption leading to fouled plugs and thick carbon deposits on the pistons, combustion chambers and exhaust valves and ports. 10k miles of this and your new engine will need rebuilding. Dad says please trust him on this, there’s a reason why Porsche and Ferrari don’t use forged pistons in their street engines and it isn’t just to save cost." http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Nissan-280Z-280ZX-L28-3-0-Turbo-Piston-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ140692QQihZ001QQitemZ110117210328QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

You could get your turbo exhaust housing thermal coated. From what I understand there are only advantages to retaining heat in the turbo system. (on the hot side that is)

Yea, that sounds right, since their SC has a clutch to disengage it, so I guess they are twin charging, just not compound charging. Vindicare - A bigger turbo will happen eventually, right now I have a stock hot side with a Grand National compressor, which I think is close to some common T3/T4 setups. I don't care much about high end, mainly 2000-5000RPM, so if power starts trailing off around 5grand because the turbo is bottlenecking, I'm OK with that for now. We'll see. Frank - what kind of IC are you gonna run, and how are you going to run the tubing? (turbo>SC>IC>motor?) I would love to see some pics and will try to post some of mine when I start mocking it up. UPS should have it here Thursday, then I can see if and how much I'll need to modify the intake manifold. I'm getting more and more excited about this project.

They are using one on the Golf and Touran(van/MPV) in Euroland - it's a 1.4L TSI. It has 14% more power but uses 5% less fuel than the 2.0L FSI (N/A). Looks like they've used it in the Golf since '05. Also, note the 10:1 CR. (All my 'facts' come from wikipedia . I've read it produces 177 ftlbs of torque from 1750-4500RPM. No turbo lag indeed.

Hey Tony, did you mean that the total compression ratio would be 2.25:1 (1.5*1.5) and not 3:1 (1.5+1.5). Using 2.25:1 I get the 18.375 you mentioned. And that's how the calculations work out in my example.

Thanks Tony, I'll just have to compress what I learn from the books and run them by everyone on the forums before applying it. I am definitely intercooling the air after the turbo, before the SC, I had a turbo setup on my car for about a year and had it intercooled, so I will try to use some of that setup. My roommate has a Buick Grand National and a Mustang SVO and talks about running alcohol injection or something like that. So after he does that, I might try a similar setup on my car to cool the supercharged air. My numbers are a bit generalized since I started with 14psi for simplicity's sake instead of 14.7 actual atmospheric pressure.

Hey guys, I just ordered Corky Bell's books "Maximum Boost!" and "Supercharged" and hopefully they will have answers to my questions. But for now I figure I would ask you guys what you think. I am pursuing a project similar to Frank's plans to twin charge his Z. I bought a used JCR supercharger kit which should be in the mail any day. I plan on using the stock turbo/exhaust manifold setup and modifying the JCR manifold as necessary for a) fitting over the exhaust manifold+turbo, ported fuel injection similar to stock EFI. Here's my question about boost. As I understand superchargers they provide a constant ratio pressure increase, meaning if I have a SC that runs 7psi, it has a 1.5 compression ratio, because it's compressing atmospheric pressure of 14psi (approx) to 21psi. >21psi/14psi = 1.5 ratio So what happens if instead of 14psi absolute at the SC inlet, you have precharged air from the turbo at 7psi gauge or 21psi absolute. Will the SC compress that air at a ratio of 1.5 again, producing 31.5 psi(abs)/17.5psi(ga)? >1.5 * 21psi = 31.5psi absolute(abs) >31.5psi - 14psi(atm) = 17.5psi gauge(ga) So, my question is, if I setup the turbo to produce only 7psi (boost) at the SC inlet, will that produce approx 17psi after the SC with that stock SC pulley that I described above? Any replies or ideas or comments welcome. Also, Frank280ZX, I am curious if you have made any progress on your twincharging setup. I am hoping to beat you to it only because I haven't heard of anyone else having completed this setup. Anyone else have any record of this setup on an L28?? ref: (Lancia S4) Thanks guys, Matthew Brazle

Actually when I was in Europe I saw a lot of cars that were grounded through a rubber strip that had a metal mesh core. It hung from the back of the car by the exhaust down to the ground.

Ocean's 11? I'm thinking more on the lines of Mad Max when reading this thread. As for the shielding, I like the idea of havinig 2 shields around MS, one that grounds to the MS grounds, and one that grounds somewhere else completely. I do have a question about the wire shielding though - what type of wire shielding should one use to shield individual wires, not bundles, since wires within bundles can interfere with eachother? I searched for wire shielding, but the results were limited...

Alex, Not a winter beater Z, but a winter beater ZX! LOL :0)

My friend bought an extra turbo for his Buick Grand National but it turned out to be jacked up - bearings went out, the shaft has tons of play. The turbo is from an 86-87 and is only oil cooled. Because of the shaft play, the compressor wheel and housing had some good contact and there is some serious scathing on both. I have been told you can use the compressor wheel and housing (including the backing) from these Buicks to upgrade the Z T3 turbos. I would like to know if this compressor wheel and housing, if transferred to my turbo would work or not. I think there would be some blow by and it would not compress the air as efficiently, but it may still be an improvement from stock, so I am just looking for some other opinions here. What do yall think? Is this thing trash or useable? Here are the pics:

As an update to my last post, I think when it was stuttering MS was resetting, because I had my laptop hooked up and I heard the sound MS makes when it connects two of the times it stuttered. Since my last post, I haven't had any problems, and have slowly been getting on it more to see if it will blow the fuse and it hasn't yet. I really need a wideband O2 sensor, cuz going off the narrow band to see how my fuel is is not accurate. I will check the plugs tonight and see how they all compare.

I made the changes as suggested by metro and changed the "req fuel" parameter back to what it should be. It would not stay running like that. I changed "req fuel" back up to 23-24 and it will run like that. But, the first time I got on it, it blew the 2amp MS fuse. I replaced the fuse, and blew it again. I have been driving carefully since then. But now it stutters really bad randomly, seems like it is in 2nd gear when I'm slowly accelerating. When I accelerate faster it seems to run fine... I can't tell what's causing it. I also disconnected all the injectors individually, and everytime I do, the engine runs a little rougher, then smooths out when I reconnect them. That happens for each injector, not as noticeably with inj 1 and 3, so I will check them again later. But I think they are all working. Any other suggestions?!?

Well, that stinks... I do have the stock turbo injectors, and yes I was aware that they are low impedance. I guess I just didn't read the manual thoroughly enough to find all the details explained. Things are a little confusing with the differences between the V2.2 and older and the V3 boards, so I thought had it set right. Thanks for the clear explanation and reference in your reply. It still seems to be running OK with the req fuel adjustment I had to make... is it possible that the car will still run with fried injectors with changes like that? Or is that probably something unrelated? What would the symptoms be of fried injectors, would the injector solenoid freeze up and let a constant amount of fuel through, be it none, or a lot? or what? If I did fry my injectors, this will be a good excuse to find some bigger cc injectors