BRAAP

Joe, Thanks for jumping in and helping out with this one. Btw, Ron says he enjoyed chatting with you, brought back memories. Some day we’ll all have to get together and swap V-8Z stories. Sorry for the tangent.

Atronix, First, please open this link and read the entire page, thoroughly. Your previous post was tossed for not following rule #2, this one violates #3. In this instance, the word ”anyone” in the title box doesn’t pertain to your request… http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=69&a=2 I’m not going to throw this one out incase someone wants to helps out… Secondly, if you need engine parts, you need to let us know what engine you are building, L-6, is it a V-6 or V-8 conversion? What year? What displacement? If you need a crank or good used pistons, we need more specifics. Have you called any of the automotive machine shops in the area? All Automotive Machine shops have access to ALL the consumable internal parts for any engine manufactured that was made available in the US. Also, The block will need some amount of clean up and machine work so those new bearings, pistons, rings, gaskets, etc stand a better chance of not blowing up. For used parts such as blocks cranks, rods, heads, maybe good usable pistons, (if your block doesn’t need to be bored), hit the U-pull-it yards. There is one on Foster road in Damascus and one in Boring right on hwy 26 next to Ashley’s A&W that have a few Z cars and you can get complete engines for $150, you disconnect everything, they “YANK” it out with a gargantuan CAT loader. As an engine builder, your post has me thinking something is amiss and the issue/problem isn’t being addressed, just the end result. If you blew up two engines already, I would seriously do some research before the next one scatters itself in the oil pan, 1) Why did the last 2 engines blow up? I.e. were they just thrown together with indiscriminant incompatible/incorrectly sized used internal parts, lack of maintenance, really poor state of tune, etc? If this is an L-6, Those engines are virtually bullet proof N/A. To blow up 2 of them in stock trim?... 2) What steps are you planning to lessen the possibility of scattering another engine? Good luck and please read the entire page of the link I posted above. Paul

Shot you a PM about the other sensors. Hope you are able to find it. Keep us posted.

There is room for at least two of those stacked inline, maybe even three.. Hmmm a Nissan V-18, VG90E...

Are you using the stock ECU or aftermarket? So it will run, boost will build, the engine just doesn't seem to be making anymore power while on boost. Am understanding that correctly?

Your fuel pressure regulator is most likely adjustable. But first verify that your return line is indeed returning fuel back to the tank. Then, be sure that those two pumps aren’t pumping MORE fuel than the return line can flow, i.e. did you size your fuel line for the both pumps capacity? Did you verify fuel line routing as mentioned above? Still LOTS of unknowns here. You can't just throw out a "fuel pressure" and say "fuel pump buzzes" and expect us to just “guess” for 20 posts. We need a lot more detail of possibly how and why that could be or if it is even a malfunction? Maybe your fuel pressure regulator is set at 60 PSI, and your pumps are making normal noises because they are race pumps that are supposed to be noisy? Are the pumps stock, aftermarket? .. Did the car run with this setup before? If so, what changed? Please, throw us a bone and we’ll help as much as we can.

Greg, Cool. Let us know how it comes out. As for the pump, nothing to know other than it is pretty much a straight forward swap. Don’t forget the collar for the oil pump drive shaft etc. Be sure to set the pickup height above the pan floor. Let us know how it works.. Paul

As far as I’m aware, clutch pack and gear type torque sensing are your two major options for the discerning enthusiast. Both camps waive their flags from time to time on here and you’ll find our very own Jmortensen is quite versed in the various differentials. If you haven’t already, read through this sticky linked below. Jon has outlined and detailed with great pics BTW, most if not all the diffs that we would normally consider using in the Z car. Covers LSD, 2 and 4 spider gear carriers, the R-190, spider gear failure explained, half shafts and C/V joints, torque sensing etc.. Incredible source of info and a good read as well. … http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798

First off, welcome to HybridZ. Within you’ll find a vast archive of wonderful and sometimes oddball V-8 Z info that people have either done, are doing, or at least talking about. Don’t hesitate to start browsing the V-8 forums, stickies, and that often forgotten search button at the top.. In regards to your question, just an addition to what TravRMK already stated. Look into the getting the JTR V-8-Z car conversion manual. It is an invaluable source of information about the V-8 Z car. It covers the ins and outs and some of the nuances of swapping a V-8 into a Z car including throttle linkage, automatic transmission shifters, as well as calibrating the OE Datsun tach to function with the Chevy distributor, using the stock Datsun speedo with the Chevy trans, suspension upgrades, cooling issues, etc. Here is a link to that manual. It will be the best $34 you’ll spend on your V-8 Z. The author of that manual is also a member here and on occasion will chime in.. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html Good luck and welcome, Paul

If it is truly a V-LSD, then my not so humble opinion is nothing really special about it. It would have some value to the drag race crowd though. If it is a clutch pack LSD, then it’s a keeper for the hard core corner carver. The Viscous diffs work great for drag racing or cars only driven on wine tasting tours. For true "cornering" performance, the viscous LSD is inconsistent, and break away torque is quite loose, so to speak. The Inside tire still spins readily when driven aggressively such as on back roads or “top of class” autocross competition. That’s my $.02 from my experience owning a few cars with the V-LSD diffs. I don’t like them in a true “performance” sports car.

***Admin note.. This thread has been moved to the appropriate forum. *** Rewiring a car is totally subjective. Of course the 240 is the easiest of the Z car line in regards to wiring and electrical as it had the least wiring in it from the factory. Some guys on here wouldn’t bat an eye on rewiring their 240-Z, if for no other reason than to eradicate the known 240 wiring short comings such as power to the head lights, wipers etc. It really depends on your electrical aptitude. If you have some automotive electrical fundamentals and want to tackle a rewarding project, I say go for it. Especially since you are restoring it with an SR20DET, bringing the wiring up to modern standards would make sense to me any how.. (Restoring a 240-Z, but with an SR20DET?! Is that an oxymoron or a HybridZ?)

First off, welcome to Hybridz, your one stop source for all things extreme Z car related... Now to your issue... 1) Is your car stock, modified, etc? 2) What year is it? 3) What is your mechanical aptitude, i.e. are comfortable with getting your hands dirty working on your car and somewhat EFI savvy? 4) Where are getting your fuel pressure reading from? Based on the limited description you gave, it sounds like your fuel isn’t returning back to your tank, (i.e. no fuel FLOW due to a clogged return line or incorrectly plumbed fuel system), and as result you are severely over working your fuel pump. Don’t let your fuel pump run in this situation. It will burn up VERY quickly if it hasn’t already and they are not cheap. If you don’t already have one, go down to the parts store and purchase a Haynes manual for your car. It has the fuel routing diagram. Make sure your car matches that diagram EXACTLY. I’ve attached a very simplified version of the fuel routing. This is how yours should be routed with the addition of the fuel filter, fuel damper at the pump, etc.

MR BRAAP?.. Now I feel like the mean step Dad... Just plain ole BRAAP or even Paul is fine, really... BTW what was the other thing you learned today? Mr...

Yes they do. We regularly use square port headers on round port heads on N/A builds. We use a Victor Reinz intake/exhaust manifold gasket for the ’75-’76 280 Z. the Exhaust port is surrounded by sheet metal, just like the fire ring in a head gasket. Just be sure to face the wide steel surface against the round port of the head. As you can see in the picture below, this gasket came off just such a project, round port head, square port manifold. The inner exhaust liner dumps into the square opening with nothing covering it, i.e. unrestricted flow.

As jtmny1999 made mention, the R200 uses a different mustache bar than the R-180. R-200’s require the R-200 mustache bar and R-180s require the R-180 mustache bars. HTH, Paul

tfreer, You’re not in trouble, just a heads up. That little button at the top of the thread titled “Thread Tools” has the option to subscribe without actually having to post in that/this thread. HTH. Ok, so you need what is called a “square to round”. You might be able to “beat” the round pipe into submission, er, a square at the entrance with a bucking bar. Being as you are planning to use mild steel, any reason why you couldn’t just use the flange of an existing square port header for its “square to round”, cut the pipes off where you need them or just use the first 2-3 inches for your project? Might be able to find someone’s old rusty square port header cheap or free if it is dented or trashed. All you really need is a good THICK flange with approx 2-3” of the pipe coming off the flange.. Just a thought.

Greg, First off, I didn’t see your response till just now. Sorry about that, I hope I’m not too late. That looks like a good find. Without the kick outs, you’ll have more room for your exhaust. The ad says he is supplying the pick up, so you shouldn’t need to get one. BTW, I just dug up the specs for your new pan. It is 7 qts, and 8” deep! One inch deeper than the other econo pans listed here. Is that going to be an issue for you ground clearance wise? Specs for Gvincents eBay find… http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HAM%2D1098&N=700+115&autoview=sku If you so choose in the future, or if this helps anyone else, here is a quick run down of the Hamburger shallow 7” deep, 7 quart oil pans for the SBC. The 3057 is for the ‘86+ one piece rear main seal SBC which includes the LT 1, (summit part number HAM-3057) All these pans are essentially the same in design and construction. Differences being which side of the block the dipstick is cast, and whether it is one piece or two piece rear main seal. Here are all three variants for this pan availed for the SBC. 3037, SBC ’80-’85 Pass side dipstick $229.95 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HAM%2D3037&N=700+115&autoview=sku 3047, SBC ‘55-’79 Drv side dipstick $239.88 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HAM%2D3047&N=700+115&autoview=sku 3057, SBC ’86 and later, one piece main seal. $223.69 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HAM%2D3057&N=700+115&autoview=sku 3037 3047 3057

W.O.T. with Triple Chocolate fudge at opposite lock.. It doesn’t get much better..

I’m wearing my Cape today.. SUPER BRAAP… Ok, that’s... that's just not right..

I GOT IT!!!! This one’s EASY! Flip the mustache bar around. That is the part that attaches to the back of your diff. You installed it backwards.

I wasn't aware that bigger U-joints were available for the Datsun half shafts? At least I haven’t seen any posts about these larger U-joints. Please share if you have heard of such U-joints. Currently, most people step up to the CV axles. Being as you have the semi trailing arms that are known for severe aggressive squat under launch, (I’ve heard of guys altering the geometry of the semi trailing arm in an attempt to limit that squat under launch conditions, though not sure if that is a help or a hindrance for the hard core strip chassis set ups), but being as you most likely have to deal with all that squat under launch, and as a result, severe U-joint angularity, (the steeper the U-joint angularity the weaker the U-joint is by design. The less angle you have in the U-joint, the stronger), it seems like the CV axle is your logical choice. Unless, you can keep the car from squatting so much, and if so, then just follow the guidelines the other successful hard care drag racing U-joint users have done in regards to U-joint brand choices and set up.

The S-130 is a rear steer system as TimZ pointed out. It will NOT work in the S-30 chassis without some VERY serious reconstruction performed to the S-30 body/suspension, such as relocating the T/C rods to the front of the car, etc. There are much easier ways to acquire power steering the S-30 an it has been covered extensively on this forum, though not sure if all of it is the appropriate section. (If you guys fond one in the wrong section let me know via PM and I’ll move it..) BlueOvalZ, was one of the pioneers in adapting power steering to the S-30 chassis, using Ford parts. Also, the Suby rack is another recent conversion and I think I recall reading that the Miata Rack has also been done as well, I may have misread that so don't quote me. Any how, search the Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis section of this forum and the answers "should" be there. If anyone can find a good definitive power steering thread worthy of Sticky status, please let either Jmortensen or myself know via PM and we’ll sticky it in the Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis section.

Soreal-nice wheels, (kinda catchy..) First off, nice wheels. Looking forward to seeing them on the car. Being as you are using Photobucket for your picture hosting, you can actually embed those pics in your posts. If you are interested, just click the link below, and being as you already have the hard part figured out, so just skip down to #3 and #4. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123389 You can continue to link your pics if you choose, just thought I’d throw this out there just in case you wanted to embed them.. Nice wheels, Paul

That is awesome. Hands down the most coolio awesomistic derby car in the line up! A set of ZG flares and it's a show car.

Are you feeling alright aux? You do realize that you posted, included a link, and everything about it was serious? Hmm.. You probably should make an appointment..