BRAAP

That is a good one, thaks for sharing, but that is a dual plane crank V-8 like the domestic V-8's. We, (me especilly,) are intersted in the single plane crank V-8 with that BRAAP.. BRAAAAAP.....BRAAAAAAaaaaaa....... exhaust note instead of the rumble grumble, bumble grumble note of the dual plane.

Sometimes a post will go unanswered for 24 hours, 13 views and less than one hour isn’t anything to really get excited over, please be patient. You did come to the right place for your questions, though some more details would help. Bait the hook really good and you’ll attract all sorts of boosted V-8 fish from this pond. Really, there are WAY too many unknowns to offer any real direction in regards to parts. You’re going to have to meet us part way here. Please give us a LOT more detail about your project... 1) Any more details on the heads that you want? 2) Is this a race car, street car, show car etc? 3) Are you planning to run some form of intercooling with the 6-71? 4) Are you planning EFI or carb? 5) What emissions requirements do you need to meet? 6) Any other details/goals you are trying to achieve with this car? 7) Pump gas, race gas, E-85 etc? Depending on what kind of power plant you are building, (i.e. the blower being just for show or you are planning to run sub 10 second time slips), will dictate what parts you should choose. Budget is ALWAYS a concern as you could easily wrap up $10,000+ just in the engine alone, no including the parts and fabrication for the V-8 conversion into the Z.

Pretty cool. On par with some of the big productions for sure. Did you guys see the last take out/blooper at the very end of the credits? OUCH!!!

Thanks of the TVR tip guys. I found this TVR Cerbera 4.2 V-8 soundtrack…

I recently received a PM and felt it was relevant to post publicly. Here is that cut and paste with the question and my response, though the name was changed for privacy.

Austin, Hmmm… For some reason I’m envisioning a custom induction VH45DE like that one in Japan. Something along those lines, but of course custom and not like that one. maybe super charged?... It sure would look gorgeous under the hood of your car… Gobs of Nissan Torque... And it has LOTS of Wow factor which compliments your car, i.e. LOTS of WOW factor…

Hmmm... Never thought about that and those are probably sized with reason I’d suspect. Cool. Keep us posted on the feasibility.

Functionally, that weld job is fine, granted, cleaning the area to be welded prior, such as bead blasting woud be prudent. The welds on this particular head pictured below looked about the same prior to us reshaping the chambers and decking the head, though we bead blasted the head prior to welding. The only real difference between this one and the Japanses head in the ad is this head had more material added around the spark bolt boss.

There you go again, thinking about male tooshies...

Been reading this and wanted to put in my $.02 Please don’t take this wrong way, but I’m not understanding how the Nissan CAS that works perfectly fine for the Nissan ECU and other stand alone EMS’s, yet not so well with this AEM EMS, is a Nissan issue? Nissan has been using that sensor with its EFI on several other Nissan engines for several years with no issues, but the AEM is having troubles reading that Nissan CAS on the RB, (and did I read that right that the SR is also having the same issues with the AEM and the CAS?) Based on just the RB issue alone, then doesn’t this seem more like an AEM issue, not a Nissan issue? If I’m missing or misinterpreting this in any way, please let me know and set the record straight for others that will stumble across this thread. FWIW, Similar Nissan CAS wheels are working flawlessly in at least 2 Datsun Z car applications that I am personally involved in, triggering a comparable EMS firing 6 coils, and those CAS’s are being driven off the L-series oil pump drive shaft at that, not the timing belt, (those 2 cars are being driven today and tomorrow to the Datsun/Nissan show in Canby OR). Something to consider when using the Nissan CAS with any aftermarket EMS. Verify what part of the slot in the trigger wheel that the EMS is triggering from, i.e. the leading edge or the trailing edge of the slot itself, (this would apply to the 6 slots, not the 360). I believe, though I can’t confirm this, the AEM, as well as the other plug and play systems, utilize the 6 holes for the trigger, not the 360. And because the Nissan CAS 6 slots are of varying widths, depending on what part of the slot the ECU is triggering from, i.e. the leading or trailing edge of that slot, that would very well affect the timing for those individual cylinders. One way to verify this is using a timing light on each cylinder and verify that the coils are indeed firing exactly 120 degrees apart from each other. If the leading/trailing edge trigger is the issue and it is not an optional setting within the EMS configurations and set up menus, the Nissan CAS can be disassembled and the chopper wheel itself can be flipped over. Just a thought.

That is the most logical explanation for sure. I could see a reality TV show building that, as a joke, though I get the feeling this very expensive joke was privately funded….

Ah, the ole worn Datsun relays issue. We’ve had good success bleeding the smoke out of those old Datsun/Hitachi relays. After a good smoke bleeding, you won’t have any more relay chatter and they will be more consistent in their time spent in the open condition. Good luck, hope to see you there.

We have a few more NARP brand light bulb repair kits in stock if the blinker fluid isn’t strong enough. Let us know. We take the following forms of payment, cash and coin. We stopped taking the wooden coins recently due to the dry-rot epidemic here in the Pacific Northwest, sorry.

How the heck did I miss this one.. Happy belated B-day Bartdude.. And I 2nd Mr. David K…

GregZ33, First off, welcome to Hybrid. You’ll find that 99.9% of the members here are friendly, pleasant, and are very supportive of even some of the most odd ball of projects. Your project is NOT at all oddball, and very much falls into the Hybrid mindset, “mods to our beloved Z cars that satisfies our inner cravings to make it better!”. We make an effort not to discriminate on techniques and parts used, though some of us will question why on some ideas and concepts. At that, the reasons “why” really only needs to satisfy the owner/builder doing the project and we should/will make every effort respect that. In short, welcome. In my not so humble opinion, the concept, execution, and craftsmanship, of your projects are clean and have that OE look and function as you inteded. Nice work. Looking forward to seeing more of your work here on Hybrid.

Justin, Ahh… Looking VERY good.

If you are going to use the Poly-Rubber combination, you want the poly bushing on the front and the rubber bushing on the back, regardless of which direction the T/C rod is facing, i.e. rearward as on the S-30 or forward as on the S-130, Z-31, Z-32, PL-510, etc. (front being the furthest forward, towards the front of the car, rear being furthest back or towards the rear of the car). On the early S-30 cars, the T/C rod is in compression for 99% of its life as the wheel is being pushed against it, especially under hard braking. On the S-130, (aka 280-ZX), the T/C rod is in tension so it is always being “pulled” on, especially under hard braking. So placing the poly bushing on the forward side in either instance, the poly bushing is doing its job of limiting wheel movement, limiting caster change etc, yet the rubber bushing on the opposite side is allowing the T/C rod to pivot and articulate while keeping the T/C rod attached the car and not overstressing the T/C rod to failure. The rubber side of the T/C rod will only really be working while braking in reverse. Not really a situation that needs to keep suspension movements to race car standards, rubber is more than adequate in that situation. This Poly-Rubber arrangement is not ideal, but MUCH better from a performance stand point AND safer than the Poly-Poly arrangement. Hiem joints/Spherical rod ends are a far superior suspension pivot on many levels that only adds a little more harshness. For the weekend warrior that just drives at 7 tenths, the Poly-Rubber T/C bushing combo is more than adequate. For the hard core enthusiast and racer, Spherical bearings. Hope that helps, Paul

DARN!!! I was hoping someone would buy it… Oh well. When I built our real shop here on our property, (30x60x14), I also built a 1/24 scale version of it complete with removable roof. Though just after completing the scale version of the building, on the prints, I mirror imaged all the doors & windows for the real building. Had to do with placement of the full bath in the back corner and putting it closer to the service entrance. My daughters play with the scale version using their Polly pockets, Barbie’s etc.. I borrow it once in a while, you know, for photo shoots.. Any how, here is the scale version and the real shop. Ron Tyler, Dave Lum, my father and couple other friends helped with the initial truss lifts, setting some of the framing and pouring/rolling the Epoxy on the floor.

Arighty, I’ll play. Not many people even know I own either of these two cars. In fact there are some family members that don’t know about the Ferrari. Here ya go, original 1962 Ferrari 250-GTO and a somewhat well kept all original ’72 S-30 240 in the Rusch Motorsports shop. (Cats out of the bag, you happy now Ron?)

We are planning on being there Sunday with the Z-32, no booth this year.

AH. Good stuff. Thank you for the update. This info is quite valuable. Thank you,

Thank you guys. Per request, here are those two in higher res. .

If your engine is a mild to moderate street engine, N/A or boosted, the OE 2” will serve you well, the 60MM wont hurt anything other than it will be just a little harder to modulate the power, especially notable off idle when taking off from a stop. The fact that it has the right TPS on it does make it more attractive for sure, especially if it can be had for pennies. In regards to huge by large throttle bodies, here is a good read… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119899 Good luck with your project, Paul

Tonight while shooting “update” pics for our customers, I made a small attempt to take some creative pics of a pair of N-42 heads we are custom building for a couple of our customers in Europe. Nothing spectacular photography wise and in the end, I converted most of the pics to Black and White. For some reason when viewing these pics on my computer, this subject just felt better in B&W vs color, at least to me anyhow.

Dunno. all dressed up in DRAG, (honoring diversity), I’d run it with the infamous foggy motor home…