BRAAP

I was just checking as you mentined V-6, which narowed down the fieled to the 300-ZX line. The earlier cars, 240, 260, 280 Z and ZX have an inline 6, aka, L-6. Mine was typical of most carbed V-8 Z conversions. '75 280 Z with chev 355, W/C T-5 5 speed, 3.90 ratio welded diff, street car, on the way to the drag strip got exactly 20 MPG and ran 12.3 @ 113. The Big Block Chrysler 440 280 Z, Torque Flite 727 with manual shift body bested something like 15 MPG. The EFI cars like the LT 1's and LS-x are doing MUCH better. Ron Tyler's LT 1 6 speed 240-Z with 3.90 ratio diff recorded 28 MPG on the freeway, and he feels the car was worth 30 MPG if more attenion was paid to mileage vs cornering performance, i.e. tires, alignments, gearing, etc.

So which 300-ZX cars are you reffering to with V-8 converions, Z-31 or Z-32?

I have also ran pseudo returnless system. I ran the supply and return lines in the trans tunnel, regulator on the firewall directly behind the valve cover. The supply from the regulator to the fuel rail was returnless, hence the pseudo returnless term. Whenever the topic of returnless fuel routing comes up, the debate of possible issues always arises, though we haven’t heard any confirmed data to back up any suspicions, yet. I personally haven’t experienced any issues on mine, my returnless section was rather short, and I didn’t really put much running time on it before selling it. It did help in cleaning up the engine bay and simplify the fuel rail plumbing. This could be taken even further by placing the fuel pressure regulator back at the fuel pump so there is only one line, supply, running up to the front of the car. Some OE manufactures are doing this currently, some with regulators and I think I heard somewhere that some are pulsing the fuel pump as the means to regulate fuel pressure, no pressure regulator, though I can’t confirm that. Here is the typical general fuel flow routing that we are used to dealing with; Pseudo returnless as I used; As installed in my race car. The black fuel pressure regulator on the firewall where the supply and return lines come to, and the short returnless supply line out to the fuel rail; The dead end at the fuel rail;

I have successfully reused these gaskets on my own N/A car with header, no leaks. As long as the intake manifold doesn’t tear the paper gasket material when removing it, yes, they are reusable. This one tore when intake was removed, no longer useable.

WOW! The uniqueness, quality of craftsmanship, attention to detail… Looks like something that came from MONZTER’s shop. Seriously, anyone that has seen any of Jeffs work would agree.

Happy Birthday Justin. Now get back to work on your car and that intake manifold.

Double post, wanted to delete it but can't as the delete options isn't available anymore.. Hmmm

It was Jim that convinced me to use the World Class T-5 in my first V-8 Z. In our phone conversations he kept telling me the WC T-5 would hold just fine and can be built even tougher if need be, which he had done with his his. I put over 15,000 miles abusive miles running 12.3 @ 113 MPH, and 4th gear stomp and dump burnouts with my W/C T-5 and no issues. He sent me some photos of his car showing the Taurus headlights, Callaway tailights, flush qurater window and shaved gutters etc. I still have those glossys stashed around somewhere in my boxes of old Z stuff. If I can find them I'll scan them in and post them. I remember Jim talking about his buddy Mark Stielow, (most of you probably know Mark from Hot Rod Magazine), telling me about all the cool stuff he was doing while building his Pro Touring Camaro back in '97-'98. Those were the days...

Ok guys, I llinked this video elsewhere, but felt it was worthy of its own individual thread. Most of you may already know about this car, but for those who don’t, it is wicked, to say the least. I think the video speaks for itself. At the end of the 2 minute clip is the worlds best, coolest all time foggy ever, BAR NONE! Enjoy… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgnCtkrmWUs

Yeah, someone did the same thing with a Hyundai Tiburon. Twin Motor, both engines turbocharged, car looks bone stock. I first read and saw it in an issue of Sport Compact Car magazine in an ultimate street car shoot out. Just little over 300 wheel hp each, (600 HP total), Wicked quick straight-line, 10.9 ET, around the road course they just drove it grand-dad style as I guess it wasn’t to road race savvy. They also did the absolute COOLEST foggy ever! With one engine in reverse the other in first, and it would just sit there fog all 4 tires and spin in a circle at a high rate of .. uh… I guess it would be called YAW. Any how, it is an AWESOME! Here is video of that car on the dyno, going down the strip, and doing that most incredible AWD foggy EVER!! Bar none!… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgnCtkrmWUs .

Or.. use the FWD LS-x set up out of the Impala, Montecarlo, Bonneville, etc install it behind the driver seat for a mid engine RWD! It would launch hard and might even make for a nasty autocross car. Along those lines, I have had passing thoughts of taking the 2nd gen Nissan Pulsar, N13 (’87-’90), and installing a FWD VG30 behind the driver seat, sort of a Nissan V6 version of the Toyota MR-2. Or, building a GM version of the SHO-GUN, Geo Metro with a late model caddy V-8 FWD set up in the back seats. Seeing the expressions on near by drivers faces as you pull away from the stop light doing a wheel stand in a Geo metro would be priceless..

Uh, like that is even a contest. That’s like asking a drift driver, (or are they called drifters?) which they prefer for drifting, FWD or RWD?

Cool Hybrid. Nice to see someone following through with a radical swap such as that. Reminds of the 350 Corvette powered and suspended GRM 2004 challenge CRX. http://www.dilysimotorsports.com/V8CRX.htm

Very nice. Thank you for sharing. That package should bring big grins every time you mash the loud pedal. What EMS are you planning to run on this project?

I'm pretty sure he meant only 8 injectors that flow 44 lb/hr.

This gasket has a steel core, the kicker is the exhaust ports of the gasket are sandwiched in a steel, just like a head gaskets” fire ring” surrounding the chambers. I’ve not seen these used on Turbo applications, but my guess is that with an iron turbo exhaust manifold that is truly flat, this gasket would hold up just fine. Too bad this gasket is no longer in production. I have been using these gaskets exclusively on all of my customers and personal L-6 engines with headers. If the header flange is thin and prone to warping, I will double these up and wa la, no more leaks. They also work great for square port headers used on round port heads. This gasket was removed from a running round port head, square port header combo and all the exhaust ports looked just like these, no leaks.

We need to be more specific here and not just blanket statement that head bolts should be replaced every time as that is not the case here with the L-series. In the case of the Datsun/Nissan L-series, it is completely and totally acceptable to reuse the head bolts, main bolts, rod bolts etc. They are not a “torque to yield” bolt. “Torque to yield” fasteners should never be reused because if they were installed properly, then those fasteners were torqued to their yield point, hence the name, “torque to yield” i.e. the bolt is stretched to the point that it is now “sprung” and if tension is ever released, they are no longer reusable. Some manufactures used torque to yield fasteners on various engines, but not the L-series. For the record, YES, you can reuse ALL the Datsun/Nissan L-series head bolts, rod bolts, and main bolts. For mild to moderate N/A applications, the stock head, rod and main bolts are fine. If the compression ratio is such that it requires race fuel, you are running race cam, boost, etc, then I strongly recommend that you step up to the ARP head studs. If the engine is going to be spun at 7000+ RPMs often, then I would recommend the ARP rod bolts. If you are planning to run more than 12+ lbs of boost, then I’d also recommend ARP main studs.

My race car used to have a 1/3 style lightweight dash, I removed that lightweight version and installed a heavier versions using the frame/Skelton from a 240 dash, wrapped in non ferrous sheet metal painted with wrinkle paint, notched for the rollcage and tach.

The S-130’s, aka 280-ZXs, don’t have a rear spindle pin like the S-30 cars. The 280-ZX is a semi trailing arm rear suspension. The rear strut is more of a “coil over shock” in design and by his description, I'm pretty sure he was referring to the lower “strut” mount coming off it s locating pin. If an S-30 did loose its spindle pin, the wheel wouldn’t slam up into the wheel well as the wheel would still be attached to the strut which would still be attached to the strut tower, though I guess it could very well swing way out into the road if the half shaft and brake lines didn’t contain it… .. (not a pretty thought.)

I like the concept, the cut away is WAY COOL! One thing. The title says Hybrid-Z, though the picture is not so hybrid. Now if that cut away had an alternative power plant, anything other than L-series, custom suspension, body work, etc, that would flat out ROCK!!!! Personally I’d be partial to seeing it as an S-30, though the S-130 works too..

This has been covered time and again. Search for anything related to L-6 N/A performance and you will be rewarded with pretty much everything you need to get started pulling your engine, but keep in mind, power cost not only your time in labor, but LOTS of money as well. Within this forum you will find the easiest and least expensive route to get you close to your goal. Also, keep HP in perspective. 250 N/A L-6 HP can be quite fun. 300 streetable L-6 HP will only come from some form of unnatural aspiration. Now its time to turn you loose with the search button… We’ll be here when you’ve exhausted that..

One of the masters has spoken. You can ignore everything I’ve posted. When the boys of JnJ speak about Supercharged SBC’s, take good notes. There is another SBC Savvy engine builder/machinist on here by the name of Grumpyvette. These guys will steer you in the absolute right direction, and don’t second guess their advice. You can rest assured their advice comes from years of experience building, driving, and pushing the envelope to find out what does and does not work.

I know Zgad and JnJ aren’t running L-series, but aren’t they running the stock suspension?

Here is my Roots Super Charged SBC build up. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115326 Currently, everything is in hand except for the cam, headers, and coils. Scat cast steel crank, Scat Rods, KB Hypereutectic pistons, (because of my driving habits, I probably should’ve stepped up to either the TRW L-2441 or the SRP forged 24 CC dished pistons), Eaton M-112 super charger from a V-12 Jag, Trick Flow 195 Duttweiler signature heads, Hamburger shallow road race oil pan, ARP main studs, ARP head bolts, Fluid Damper, Centerforce Flywheel and CF II clutch, T-56 6 speed trans, Ron Davis Radiator, WOLF EFI system that will also control 8 LS-x ignition coils. Haven’t settled on the cam or headers yet. Ideally I want a 180 degree 1 ¾” primary headers because I’m weird that way, but will most likely end up with 1 ¾". Shorties.

Haven’t heard that about roots blowers before. Street manners wise, ALL crank driven super chargers are pretty docile street manners wise, the roots offering the most predictable flattest torque curve of all superchargers. Boosters 101… Roots Blower, (positive displacement super chargers). Roots blowers generally deliver the flattest power curve, no lag, etc. It is generally viewed as the most drivable of all the unnatural aspirators due to its predictable demeanor, flat power delivery, and generally mild cam specs for optimum super charger power, i.e. wide LSA. They generate GOBS of torque at idle all the way through redline. Centrifugal blower/super chargers are RPM dependant in regards to boost. Down low, depending on the set up, they will generate little to no boost, and the boost level will increase with RPM. In graph form, the Torque curve will resemble a typical Horse power curve, rising from idle to redline. Turbo chargers. These are the most complex, yet most efficient at turning fuel and air into tire smoke. Depending on how the application is built and set up will determine how the power is delivered, throttle response, lag, etc. They do have a high initial and long term cost. Turbos can be set up to be quite drivable, again with great attention paid to the design and tune of the project. In a cost no object Turbo project with lots of cutting edge anti lag enhancement’s, Turbos are wonderful. Nitrous. This artificial induction of oxygen in the form of Nitrous Oxide from a bottle via nozzles in the intake provides instantaneous power. It is fun, harder to modulate the power and you have to refill the bottle when it’s empty. Great for short quick squirts up the road. Where a Turbo works best for one application, a Roots blower works better in another, and a centrifugal super charger works better in another. It just depends on the application and where the builder/owner is willing to make his compromises in regards to acquiring artificial aspiration.