BRAAP

WOW! The uniqueness, quality of craftsmanship, attention to detail… Looks like something that came from MONZTER’s shop. Seriously, anyone that has seen any of Jeffs work would agree.

Happy Birthday Justin. Now get back to work on your car and that intake manifold.

Double post, wanted to delete it but can't as the delete options isn't available anymore.. Hmmm

It was Jim that convinced me to use the World Class T-5 in my first V-8 Z. In our phone conversations he kept telling me the WC T-5 would hold just fine and can be built even tougher if need be, which he had done with his his. I put over 15,000 miles abusive miles running 12.3 @ 113 MPH, and 4th gear stomp and dump burnouts with my W/C T-5 and no issues. He sent me some photos of his car showing the Taurus headlights, Callaway tailights, flush qurater window and shaved gutters etc. I still have those glossys stashed around somewhere in my boxes of old Z stuff. If I can find them I'll scan them in and post them. I remember Jim talking about his buddy Mark Stielow, (most of you probably know Mark from Hot Rod Magazine), telling me about all the cool stuff he was doing while building his Pro Touring Camaro back in '97-'98. Those were the days...

Ok guys, I llinked this video elsewhere, but felt it was worthy of its own individual thread. Most of you may already know about this car, but for those who don’t, it is wicked, to say the least. I think the video speaks for itself. At the end of the 2 minute clip is the worlds best, coolest all time foggy ever, BAR NONE! Enjoy… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgnCtkrmWUs

Yeah, someone did the same thing with a Hyundai Tiburon. Twin Motor, both engines turbocharged, car looks bone stock. I first read and saw it in an issue of Sport Compact Car magazine in an ultimate street car shoot out. Just little over 300 wheel hp each, (600 HP total), Wicked quick straight-line, 10.9 ET, around the road course they just drove it grand-dad style as I guess it wasn’t to road race savvy. They also did the absolute COOLEST foggy ever! With one engine in reverse the other in first, and it would just sit there fog all 4 tires and spin in a circle at a high rate of .. uh… I guess it would be called YAW. Any how, it is an AWESOME! Here is video of that car on the dyno, going down the strip, and doing that most incredible AWD foggy EVER!! Bar none!… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgnCtkrmWUs .

Or.. use the FWD LS-x set up out of the Impala, Montecarlo, Bonneville, etc install it behind the driver seat for a mid engine RWD! It would launch hard and might even make for a nasty autocross car. Along those lines, I have had passing thoughts of taking the 2nd gen Nissan Pulsar, N13 (’87-’90), and installing a FWD VG30 behind the driver seat, sort of a Nissan V6 version of the Toyota MR-2. Or, building a GM version of the SHO-GUN, Geo Metro with a late model caddy V-8 FWD set up in the back seats. Seeing the expressions on near by drivers faces as you pull away from the stop light doing a wheel stand in a Geo metro would be priceless..

Uh, like that is even a contest. That’s like asking a drift driver, (or are they called drifters?) which they prefer for drifting, FWD or RWD?

Cool Hybrid. Nice to see someone following through with a radical swap such as that. Reminds of the 350 Corvette powered and suspended GRM 2004 challenge CRX. http://www.dilysimotorsports.com/V8CRX.htm

Very nice. Thank you for sharing. That package should bring big grins every time you mash the loud pedal. What EMS are you planning to run on this project?

I'm pretty sure he meant only 8 injectors that flow 44 lb/hr.

This gasket has a steel core, the kicker is the exhaust ports of the gasket are sandwiched in a steel, just like a head gaskets” fire ring” surrounding the chambers. I’ve not seen these used on Turbo applications, but my guess is that with an iron turbo exhaust manifold that is truly flat, this gasket would hold up just fine. Too bad this gasket is no longer in production. I have been using these gaskets exclusively on all of my customers and personal L-6 engines with headers. If the header flange is thin and prone to warping, I will double these up and wa la, no more leaks. They also work great for square port headers used on round port heads. This gasket was removed from a running round port head, square port header combo and all the exhaust ports looked just like these, no leaks.

We need to be more specific here and not just blanket statement that head bolts should be replaced every time as that is not the case here with the L-series. In the case of the Datsun/Nissan L-series, it is completely and totally acceptable to reuse the head bolts, main bolts, rod bolts etc. They are not a “torque to yield” bolt. “Torque to yield” fasteners should never be reused because if they were installed properly, then those fasteners were torqued to their yield point, hence the name, “torque to yield” i.e. the bolt is stretched to the point that it is now “sprung” and if tension is ever released, they are no longer reusable. Some manufactures used torque to yield fasteners on various engines, but not the L-series. For the record, YES, you can reuse ALL the Datsun/Nissan L-series head bolts, rod bolts, and main bolts. For mild to moderate N/A applications, the stock head, rod and main bolts are fine. If the compression ratio is such that it requires race fuel, you are running race cam, boost, etc, then I strongly recommend that you step up to the ARP head studs. If the engine is going to be spun at 7000+ RPMs often, then I would recommend the ARP rod bolts. If you are planning to run more than 12+ lbs of boost, then I’d also recommend ARP main studs.

My race car used to have a 1/3 style lightweight dash, I removed that lightweight version and installed a heavier versions using the frame/Skelton from a 240 dash, wrapped in non ferrous sheet metal painted with wrinkle paint, notched for the rollcage and tach.

The S-130’s, aka 280-ZXs, don’t have a rear spindle pin like the S-30 cars. The 280-ZX is a semi trailing arm rear suspension. The rear strut is more of a “coil over shock” in design and by his description, I'm pretty sure he was referring to the lower “strut” mount coming off it s locating pin. If an S-30 did loose its spindle pin, the wheel wouldn’t slam up into the wheel well as the wheel would still be attached to the strut which would still be attached to the strut tower, though I guess it could very well swing way out into the road if the half shaft and brake lines didn’t contain it… .. (not a pretty thought.)

I like the concept, the cut away is WAY COOL! One thing. The title says Hybrid-Z, though the picture is not so hybrid. Now if that cut away had an alternative power plant, anything other than L-series, custom suspension, body work, etc, that would flat out ROCK!!!! Personally I’d be partial to seeing it as an S-30, though the S-130 works too..

This has been covered time and again. Search for anything related to L-6 N/A performance and you will be rewarded with pretty much everything you need to get started pulling your engine, but keep in mind, power cost not only your time in labor, but LOTS of money as well. Within this forum you will find the easiest and least expensive route to get you close to your goal. Also, keep HP in perspective. 250 N/A L-6 HP can be quite fun. 300 streetable L-6 HP will only come from some form of unnatural aspiration. Now its time to turn you loose with the search button… We’ll be here when you’ve exhausted that..

One of the masters has spoken. You can ignore everything I’ve posted. When the boys of JnJ speak about Supercharged SBC’s, take good notes. There is another SBC Savvy engine builder/machinist on here by the name of Grumpyvette. These guys will steer you in the absolute right direction, and don’t second guess their advice. You can rest assured their advice comes from years of experience building, driving, and pushing the envelope to find out what does and does not work.

I know Zgad and JnJ aren’t running L-series, but aren’t they running the stock suspension?

Here is my Roots Super Charged SBC build up. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115326 Currently, everything is in hand except for the cam, headers, and coils. Scat cast steel crank, Scat Rods, KB Hypereutectic pistons, (because of my driving habits, I probably should’ve stepped up to either the TRW L-2441 or the SRP forged 24 CC dished pistons), Eaton M-112 super charger from a V-12 Jag, Trick Flow 195 Duttweiler signature heads, Hamburger shallow road race oil pan, ARP main studs, ARP head bolts, Fluid Damper, Centerforce Flywheel and CF II clutch, T-56 6 speed trans, Ron Davis Radiator, WOLF EFI system that will also control 8 LS-x ignition coils. Haven’t settled on the cam or headers yet. Ideally I want a 180 degree 1 ¾” primary headers because I’m weird that way, but will most likely end up with 1 ¾". Shorties.

Haven’t heard that about roots blowers before. Street manners wise, ALL crank driven super chargers are pretty docile street manners wise, the roots offering the most predictable flattest torque curve of all superchargers. Boosters 101… Roots Blower, (positive displacement super chargers). Roots blowers generally deliver the flattest power curve, no lag, etc. It is generally viewed as the most drivable of all the unnatural aspirators due to its predictable demeanor, flat power delivery, and generally mild cam specs for optimum super charger power, i.e. wide LSA. They generate GOBS of torque at idle all the way through redline. Centrifugal blower/super chargers are RPM dependant in regards to boost. Down low, depending on the set up, they will generate little to no boost, and the boost level will increase with RPM. In graph form, the Torque curve will resemble a typical Horse power curve, rising from idle to redline. Turbo chargers. These are the most complex, yet most efficient at turning fuel and air into tire smoke. Depending on how the application is built and set up will determine how the power is delivered, throttle response, lag, etc. They do have a high initial and long term cost. Turbos can be set up to be quite drivable, again with great attention paid to the design and tune of the project. In a cost no object Turbo project with lots of cutting edge anti lag enhancement’s, Turbos are wonderful. Nitrous. This artificial induction of oxygen in the form of Nitrous Oxide from a bottle via nozzles in the intake provides instantaneous power. It is fun, harder to modulate the power and you have to refill the bottle when it’s empty. Great for short quick squirts up the road. Where a Turbo works best for one application, a Roots blower works better in another, and a centrifugal super charger works better in another. It just depends on the application and where the builder/owner is willing to make his compromises in regards to acquiring artificial aspiration.

The chambers look nice on those heads. So you are building a 350, (4.00 bore with 3.48” stroke, more than likely at least .030” over bore?)Due to the 64 CC chambers, you will need a dished piston. There are a couple routes to take. If you keep this mild, i.e. low boost levels, mild cam, you can run one of the KB Hypereutectic pistons, or if you plan to run it hard, then I’d recommend a forged dished piston. Because of the nice chambers those heads have, I’d strongly urge a D-shaped dish in the piston to retain some squish. With blowers, as well as Nitrous engines, generally, there is more bias towards the exhaust valve. For example, a supercharger specific SBC cylinder head will have 1.95” Intake valves and 1.60 exhaust valves, and even closer sizes. If the head can’t be built with a supercharger in mind, we tend to band aid the added exhaust flow with a more aggressive exhaust lobe. That would be a radical split duration cam. Speaking of cams, for supercharged applications, remember to keep the lobe separation wider than it would be for an N/A application. Between 112-116 is common, 114 is a good all around mild to moderate blower cam LSA. Below are few options for a budget minded 350 SBC blower build up. Here are few off the shelf pistons, $400-$573 (most cost effective vs custom) KB Hypers, 22cc D-dish, with 64 CC chambers approx 8.5-8.7:1 compression. (You are limited to 5.7 rod length with these pistons, but they are affordable for mildly boosted applications, i.e. don’t abuse it too much) 1/16 ring pack, 5.7 rod. http://www.kb-silvolite.com/performance.php?action=details&P_id=224 same as above but with 5/64 ring pack http://www.kb-silvolite.com/performance.php?action=details&P_id=153 Forged for more severe duty… TRW forged equivalent, 5.7 rod, 22cc D-dish. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TRW%2DL2441F30&autoview=sku SRP 5.7 rod 24 CC dish. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SRP%2D139633&autoview=sku For a 6” rod, I couldn’t find anything with enough dish for a roots blower and 64 CC chambers. That would be custom pistons and if you call JE, Ross, Wiseco, etc, they will have a common blower piston for a 6” rod for your application, though plan to spend more than $600 for the set. Blower pistons have a Dish and the ring pack is further down the piston for heat reasons. Rods. Scat I-beam rods, nice mild to moderate street rod. http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=1118&CtgID=1133 Crank, stock will work, Scat offers a decent cast Steel replacement cranks. Here is Comp cams blower cam, 115 LSA, would work better with a cylinder head built specifically with a blower in mind. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=cca-12-400-4 That should get you started…

Yeup. Same here.. Train wreck. That is a good analogy… Have you ever thought about creating such a thread locking post yourself? Maybe even a little "serial thread locking" action? You could sign on under the alias user name Loc-Tite

This more of a rant against the close mindedness of people in paid informational job positions that should not be in those positions. Thank you for allowing me to get this off my chest. Don’t take this wrong Bubble, it is not directed at you. It is truly frustrating to spend so much time and effort trying to educate and help those willing to learn and understand, only to have it get thrown back up and questioned, YET again! You are caught between what is written here on Hybrid and the close minded Slack-Jawed Shade-Tree Gomers, parts counter guys you work with. Those guys arguing to the left and right about this are obviously NOT engineers, machinists, engine builders, or tuners, etc., (the rest was edited out as it really just reflected my feelings toward the blatant close-mindedness of some individuals. If only we can get them to broaden their minds little more eh?…) ARRGHHH... I encourage those same guys at the “Main Auto Parts” to read this thread and I hope they not only can, but that they will in deed comprehend what is being posted here, including the links which also explain exactly what we are trying to convey, (wiki-pedia is awesome). It would be interesting to hear from them as they explain where and how they got their misinformation about “freeze plugs” and why they still want to believe the myth even after being shown factual data that unequivocally does NOT support their argument? I then encourage those same nay sayers to go to ANY automotive machine shop and ask the owner and workers how come those freeze plugs aren’t doing their jobs with so many FREEZE broken blocks and heads lying around? Show them the picture of the block pictured below and then have them explain how and why the freeze plugs failed to do their job! I’ll post why, (doubt it will do much good). Because they ARE CORE plugs, NOT freeze plugs! The only protection ANY and ALL cylinder blocks and heads have against freeze breakage is proper antifreeze/coolant maintenance! PERIOD!!! Have these guys visit a foundry that casts metal parts and ask the guys that actually do that for a living about core plugs, and then ask some engineers about metallurgy and the properties of water, especially in its solid stated. If they choose to keep a closed mind, so be it. I personally am done with beating my head against the wall on this subject. If a closed minded parts counter guy swears that they are freeze plugs, and are only to protect the block, then you can be absolutely sure that parts store will be flagged as a place not to support. In your example of the safe, if you fill it with water, the safe will still bust. Water expands in ALL directions when it freezes. As it does freeze and expand, any liquid water that is near the small hole will be expelled, but the safe will still break. Another example, a glass of water. The entire top of a drinking glass is open which in theory allows for expansion, but the expanding ice will still bust the glass, because ice expands in ALL directions, not just up the and out the available opening. The same is true in engines. The iron and aluminum will flex, but only to a certain point, and then it just separates, ie. cracks. Paul… Out!

Ok, why not a roots blower?