BRAAP

THIEF!!!!! Ok, I'm just jealous... Congrats on the VERY nice score...

WOOHOO!! “Posts- Last 24 hours“ …was brought back!!!! Thank you…

SuperDan, Thank you for the clarification of what is going on. In regards to the ads. Have your thought about, or would you entertain, the following?... I’m sure ads on any level wont please even 75% of the members, but I’m sure the members will put up with quite a bit, especially if the donating members have some involvement or at least a teeny voice in what is displayed/sold to us, and to what group it is displayed, (i.e. the “Intimate date” ad, a bit risque..) Option #1; Donating members are allowed ad free access, same ole Hybrid that we are used to. Non donating members view the forum in its current iteration with the ads, (I’ve seen other sites offer this, i.e. become a donating member and no ads). Option 2; Place limits on the ads that do show up for those donating members, maybe on a sliding scale? The more you donate annually, the fewer ads you have to wade through to read about performance Datsuns. Non donating members get ALL the ads. That in itself is incentive to become a donating member. Option 3; No-ads forum… In trying to read between the lines here, seeing ads on Hybrid unannounced, does give the impression that Hybrid Z is need of more financial support. First, I want to make it perfectly clear that we all appreciate the effort in both time and finances that Super Dan and the other admins and moderators make to keep this forum alive and the quality forum that it is. Thank you Dan. Thank you admins and moderators. Now, if the forum could use more financial assistance, being as it has some 8000 member’s, how much $$ per member is needed to help keep it afloat and justify its existence? I for one would be more than glad to up my donations at least another $10 a year. The wealth of info we glean from this forum is worth way more than most memberships paid. How about the non donating members? Can you guys swing the minimum donation annually? (I feel like I’m doing one of those OPB membership drives now). Thanks again Dan for the heads up. Paul Ruschman

Okie Dokie, Can I kick it in the nads instead?

Okie dokie, Apparently Hybrid has received a face lift. Did any of you know about this before hand? (I didn’t see anything in the announcements section that this was coming.) I do have a few questions and comments regarding the new Hybrid-Z 1) So what happened to the old top menu? I for one REALLY liked the old menu at the top with such features as; Posts in the last 24 hours, Posts in the last 3 days, etc. And all those posts it the last 24 hours showed up every time I clicked it, whether I read them or not. The new link is “new posts” which only shows posts I haven’t read yet. I guess we’ll get used to it. 2) And, in the threads that have pictures, this new face lift Hybrid took on wont show all the pics in those threads. About 1/4 to 1/3 of them don’t show, i.e. 1/4 to 1/3 of the pics is the little red “X” box, and it seems to be random with the pics it chooses to show and not show. A bug related to the ads?… 3) And one more thing. We should probably look into implementing some form of filter for new registering members as it seems over the last week we have been hit with a rash of new members that are only here to SPAM the forum!!! I’d love nothing more than to do foggy burnouts in their driveway….

Chya… right?!?!?... Sorry, couldn’t resist…

I agree. Hybrid-Z is a VERY well moderated, family friendly, performance oriented forum with tech talk on a level that no other forum can match.. Though… the new face Hybrid took on today… I’ll post my opinion on that in another thread...

Yeah, the key is getting the mixture right, and when it is correct, you know it. A nice crisp BAM! We were working on a Propane injection version, utilizing a Datsun cold start injector fired with a 555 timer for introducing the proper amount of propane each and every time, and also utilizing some form of Multiple Spark arrangement using an automotive ignition coil. I gathered all the parts, started the wiring, then came across pneumatic launchers. Built my first one and never looked back to combustion since. Been building and playing with pneumatic launchers of varying degrees of power and capabilities now for close to 10 years. Here are some mechanical propane injection spud guns… http://www.advancedspuds.com/propane.htm http://www.burntlatke.com/lp.html http://www.advancedspuds.com/ghetto.htm General spud gun links.. http://www.advancedspuds.com/index.html http://users.frii.com/bsimon/backyard.html http://www.spudfiles.com/ Latest launcher is an all PVC bolt action 4 shot magazine, (5 if you preload the chamber) paint ball sniper rifle with a cheapo Bushnell fixed power 4x32 scope, parallax set at 30 yards, barrel is fully moderated, (silenced). Spent the better part of 20 hours machining just the bolt action. During the proof of concept phase after shooting approx 200 shots through it, (and it was working beautifully, ready for the trigger timer and final battery mounting etc) I dropped it on the ground and the gun broke at the action, DOH!!!! I plan to build another one, probably not till next winter though. Here some pics. Bolt action during fabrication, broken gun fully assembled.

It's all good Capt Bubbleguinea, Just trying to help out those who want to know the proper terminology for the parts of their engine so when they are communicating with experts in the field of engine building, machining, and tuning, they wont sound so, "bubba shade tree". Call them what you want, I guess. The term freeze plug erroneously came about from that exact situation bubbleguinea described. By chance, sometimes those plugs will pop out if the water freezes, (shouldn’t be 100% water in the engine in the first place right?) but those plugs in NO way are the relief valve or a safety to keep the block and/or head from cracking. As water freezes, it expands in all directions regardless if there is path up or out, and as such, blocks and heads will crack, even if the core plugs do pop out. The plugs purpose is NOT relive pressure from freezing water due to lack of IMPROPER coolant maintenance on the owners behalf, and sometimes those plugs will pop out if it freezes, but more than likely the block is still cracked. Sometimes it cracks internally, sometimes externally, sometimes both. As a professional engine builder, I see this ALL the time, especially in spring time when new boat owners would bring in their engines that just one year old with cracked blocks, heads, and exhaust manifolds because they forget to winterize the engine after last summer. Here is one such unlucky boat owners block. His head and exhaust manifolds were also busted.

Here is your source for spud gun tech. http://www.spudtech.com/ Some guys are using Tazers which are expensive an supposedly offer less misfires, (HOT ignition source). I have had good luck using the BBQ lighters, but mounting the button in such a way as it is protected helps. I have only had one BBQ igniter ever fail in well over 1,000 plus shots. I have since quit making combustion spud guns due to inconsistency and misfires, the sticky gooey mess, etc. I now only build and shoot pneumatic starch launching devices as they are consistent, reliable and NEVER misfire. Also, the pneumatic launchers are between 2 and 4 times more powerful than the combustion spud guns, (i.e. hair spray/ether ignition source launchers). I build them with interchangeable barrels, i.e. Paint ball, 50 caliber, 75 caliber, 100 caliber, 125 caliber, 150 caliber, 200 caliber and 250 caliber Paint balls are my favorite, though apples, potatoes, etc are also fun in the 125-200 calibers. For my paint ball barrels. With the gun tuned down to shoot at 300 FPS across the chronograph, (full power is 800+ FPS paint balls) the gun is mouse fart quiet and fairly accurate. 12” pattern out to 30 yards. Anything over 400 FPS and accuracy diminishes terribly as the round paint balls flight path tend to spiral and hook. Here are a couple shots of my small rifle style Pneumatic launchers with dot sites, one is also wearing a home made laser site.

For a street car, I think that would be bad. That is where the “fresh” cabin air comes from. I’ve often thought about ducting the V-8 intake air into that cowl space as picture below, for a couple reasons. One being it is supposed to be a high pressure region, i.e. natural supercharging at speed. Though I don’t think it will yield much more power, or enough that we’d ever notice, but it would be a source for cleaner air, and for those of us that like the sound of the induction system, we would get that more of that as well.

Jet washing is the preferred means for cleaning aluminum in automotive machine shops. Hot tanking is reserved for iron blocks and iron heads etc. In fact, some shops only use a jet washers due to DEQ disposal reasons. In design, Jet wash cabinets are an industrial version of your wife’s/moms dish washer, but much BETTER! Just let the shop know you want the engine and its parts cleaned, they WILL by default, use the appropriate means to clean the various parts. No need to remind them which process to use as you will only be insulting their intelligence.

Your killing me here Cpt Jack. They are NOT freeze plugs!!! I repeat, NOT freeze plugs!!! They are CORE PLUGS!!! Those plugs have absolutely NOTHING to do with freezing, and EVERYTHING to do with allowing the sand out of the block immediately after the casting process, hence the name Core plug. Another term often used for them is soft plug, but please do NOT call them freeze plugs!!! Mumble grumble.. I know I’ve covered this at least 10 other times just in the last year on this forum.. mumble grumble.. . The reasoning behind replacing those core plugs is an effort to thoroughly clean out the coolant passage cavities, it is good idea to remove the CORE plugs prior the cleaning process. Also, most core plugs, especially the factory ones, are steel, and if the coolant maintenance was not kept up, those plugs rust and they will eventually rust through. For that reason alone, when an engine is rebuilt/overhauled, the core plugs should be replaced. They are quite inexpensive and easy to install. Go through and read these threads about CORE plugs. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121062 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110406 .

I REALLY like your IAT placement. Totally insulated from engine heat so it can read ONLY what it is supposed to, the temp of the inlet air! And it plugs that hole in the boot. Looking good…

Good point about the plan Mike. As for "not commenting further"… you know a statement like that is an invitation for further prodding… ...

Phil, VERY nice work. Thank you for the contribution here. How long have you been running it boxed in like that? Any other aero mods to the car that you'd be willing share BTW, that cylinder head looks familiar. A custom N-42 perhaps?

Whatever you posted here didn’t take.. (being Honda related, the issue is probably lack of torque…)

Interesting ideer. This is what you are referring to in the pictures below right? From what I understand, that slot around the perimeter of the rim is the air outlet. Behind that and towards the center of the rim are the vanes, i.e. the wheel itself is a centrifugal air mover evacuating air from behind the wheels. I’m not sure if the purpose was for moving air around the brakes for brake cooling or evacuating air from under the car for down force. Some Datsun race historians here should know for sure. Something to keep in mind, (Helicopter pilots and A&P technicians will understand this), that the wheel is rolling on the ground. As such, the bottom of the tire in contact with the ground is not moving through the oncoming air stream, whereas the top of the tire is advancing into the air stream at twice the speed which the vehicle is traveling. The air flow over the outside of the wheel will have some influence on the wheels “blade” to evacuate air.

1) Req fuel, I don’t recall. I let MT calculate it with either 19 or 21 lb/hr injectors, 173 CID, 6 cylinders, 220 HP and it calculated it for me. Injectors pulsed every revolution and staggered. 2) Fuel injectors were OE ’85 Corvette, (either 19 or 21 lb/hr, I forget which now). 3) Fuel pressure was 36 PSI, vacuum disconnected. Hope that helps.

That has to be one of the nicest and cleanest 620’s I’ve ever seen. Very nice… If you don’t mind, would you be so kind as to post some more pics of this beautiful Datsun? Thank you, Paul

Uhm!.... . . . . . . Cross posting…. Better delete one of them before Daddy sees it…

ZbigTim, Welcome to Hybrid-Z. Congratulations on your startup. As of the Escort VR and Exploder EDIS-6, yes, the wires are swapped, color wise or it will not work spark at all, as you found out. Looking forward to seeing your pictures… Here are my old “spark” and “fuel” maps during my tuning phase of my N/A L-28, 11.5:1+ compression ratio, mild cam, MS-1 V3.0, MSnS-E, EDIS-6. For all purposes, it was nice street engine with too much compression ratio for pump gas. The ignition map is a bit aggressive, (AV gas), so you might taper the max timing back to 40. This should at least give you a good starting point from which to fine tune. Top map is spark, lower is fuel. SPARK FUEL

Weighed my ’93 Z-32 N/A 2 seater last weekend. Myself and 120 lb daughter, less than an 1/8th tank of gas, (car is totally stock except for few suspension mods and lighter weight brakes,) 3600 lbs even! DOH!! Must be that VG30DE… FWIW, A couple years back I weighed my ’96 Infiniti Q-45, and with myself and half tank of gas, 4090 lbs.

I seem to recall that a couple Nascar teams played with single plane cranks in the mid 90’s. I haven’t heard of or know of any other forms of Motorsports where people were playing with flat cranks in domestic V-8’s. I’m sure there has to be and as such, those used take out cranks have to be floating around somewhere and be still more than capable to run in a mild to moderate street application. Personally, I have been wanting to build one of these flat crank V-8’s for myself and every once in a while over the past 10 years or so, I’ll do a search for "take out" 180 degree cranks for SBC or SBF, (not picky, I’ll take one for either in ANY stroke). The idea of a domestic 16 valve engine with that sweet crisp exhaust note under the hood of Z car is quite alluring. From what I understand, Bryant built a few and they are floating around, though I have yet to see a used one up for sale. You can always have one manufactured from one of the major aftermarket crank manufactures such as Cola, Bryant, Callies, or other high end crank manufacture that produce billet cranks, (not Eagle or Scat). In going that route, prepare to spend lots of money for that custom billet exhaust note… I have also thought about a forging. Some of the lower cost aftermarket forged cranks are a “twist” forging. They come out of the forging die as a single plane crank, then they are twisted while still hot so the crank pins end up at 90 degrees. I’m not sure that the crank pin config of the non twist forgings are in an acceptable arrangement though. Those cranks come out of the forging dies in the pin config circled in BLUE below. All the 180 degree cranks I have seen have the crank pins in the drawing circled in GREEN, (same as the inline 4 cylinder cranks.) My guess for the specific crank pin arrangement in a 4 cylinder and 180 degree V-8 crank is to mirror the fore and aft crank pins to each other in an effort to reduce couple induced vibrations. That is my hypothetical guess any how. All the major cam manufactures can grind a cam to match the revised firing order for just a little more than an off the shelf cam. Spark plugs wires are easy to swap around, but of course, we would use EFI and DIS right? I’d gladly trade my Eaton M-112 Super-charger straight across for a single plane domestic crank… Then top it off with one of these intakes…

Justin, Your solids works looks pretty good thus far. The angle of the OE injector port is 54 degree off the head/manifold mounting flange, (see pic below). The injector is aligned directly with the intake valve which is offset in the opening of the port itself, (port is cast off center from the intake valve). Also, you will want to keep the length of the injector bosses short so the fuel is able to spray into the port and not against the interior walls of the injector boss. I used to individually bore the injector ports in the fuel rails and manifolds for O-ring style injectors with a boring bore, (several step operation). Talk about time consuming. We recently purchased the 14mm injector cutting tool pictured below and it sped up that process considerably with comparable quality. For what it’s worth, Nissan placed and angled the injectors such that they spray directly at the back side of the intake valve when it is on the seat. The picture below is through an OE injector boss looking at the base of an intake valve with the OE manifold bolted to an N-42 head with an intake valve just off its seat to allow a little light in for the picture. You know, I still have that intake manifold for you to use for reference. I might even be persuaded to let you use a bare head with an intake valve as well if that helps?...