BRAAP

So.. did that poor little FWD car get a sex change to RWD? (went from a Girl to almost a Boy?…) I see the official “Fast and the Furious” sticker in the side window but I don’t see the matching rainbow sticker on the car any where… And what effect do the speakers aimed downward have on bite out of the hole. Or is that bite on the pole, I forget which. Just curious, what purpose, if any, does a nice sound system in a drag car serve other than prove the owners obvious knowledge on how to blend parts that should never come near each other when implemented properly, i.e. drag car and high end sound system… ? The car has now been named PAT after the SNL character played by Julia Sweeney.. Aux, you post the most amazing off the wall stuff.

In photo bucket, you will see the three options for the photo “tag” Use the bottom one as that is what the Hybrid forum supports. It must be bracketed in the By the way, your intake looks VERY nice. Good work.

ECU on the trans tunnel just under the dash. Relay board next to the clutch master where the windshield washer fluid used to reside.

Good points, all of them Scottie. A clutch is harder on the power train than a torque converter, for sure. In jgkurz’s defense, for a stick shift application that is making brutal power, i.e. 400+ HP, even shod with street tries, a clutch can shock load the power train with tremendous energy, especially if the slack wasn’t taken out of the drive train when the clutch is, shall we say, released. Things tend to go “BANG” with that kind of shock loading…

OUCH!!! Thrust is trashed! It is somewhat common to weld the thrust surface and have it reground, I’d prefer to find another crank which may end up being easier and less expensive in the long run. Is this a crank that you picked up elsewhere, or out of your engine? When installing the crank, don’t forget to not only make sure there is adequate thrust clearance, but also, make sure you “set” the thrust bearings while installing the main caps. FWIW, one of the most common causes for trashed thrust surfaces like that in a manual transmission car is holding the clutch in for extended periods while the engine is running, another cause is an improperly set thrust when the crank was originally installed.

John, Well I’m basing this on Z-gads 8 second time slips, (700+ HP I think they estimated that power at the wheels) and he is launching in a “power train brutal” 1.395 60’ time. Can’t leave out JnJ’s explosive 1.360 60 foot power train taxing WHEEL STAND launches with over 700+ Blown nitrous V-8 horsepower, and both these guys are running the long nose R-200 diffs. If these guys aren’t busting the R-200 launching with sub 1.4 second 60 foot times doing wheel stands, then I’m very confident that even a 1000-1500 HP road race/track car, (let alone a 600 HP one), wont bust the R-200 as road race/track cars aren’t able get enough traction to load the diff to the level those 700 HP drag guys do during those explosive launches. The diff in a road race/track car, even if it made twice the HP, will never see that amount of energy due to not being able to transmit that amount of energy into forward motion, i.e. traction. Though, in a road race/track situation where the diff is being loaded so hard for so long, I would think heat build up would be an issue, i.e. a larger reservoir or some form of external diff oil cooling may be warranted. I know R-200’s have been busted, even with L-6’s, in fact, I busted one with my N/A L-28 and it had a stock cam and stock EFI, (car ran a measly 14.4 @ 97 MPH) but the failure had absolutely nothing to do with the engines power. The roll pin that holds the spider gear shaft/pin in place fell out allowing the spider gear shaft to move around in the cage and eventually that spider gear shaft wallowed a slot in the spider cage, (clunked loudly), and eventually that shaft/pin broke. That roll pin issue is the only weakness that I am aware in the R-200.

I like it as well. At first glance, the profile reminded me of an S-130. Nice pixel work...

R-200 is perfect for your application. Strong enough for ultra brutal drag launches with slicks, bolts in, readily available in 3.36, 3.54, 3.73, 3.90 ratios. The R-230 is a bit overkill even for the dedicated nitrous blown V-8 drag races, it is heavier, and the Viscous LSD that comes in those is not consistent, and under extreme use, is a little wimpy in regards to its “limiting” of slip, but that is just my opinion from owning 3 cars that that have that V-LSD diff, (Q-45 and two Z-32s). The V-LSD is great for straightliners. The long nose R-200 with some sort of limited slip, whether it be Quaife or a clutch pack is easy, bolts in, and works great. That's my $.02

OMG.. I just downloaded it, drew a couple lines, line rider lasted not very long before being thrown off his sled and falling to his death on another line below, This is going to be very addictive. I had better just put it in a folder hidden somewhere and get back out to the shop.

Well, as for the + and – of the VR wires, there really isn’t one. The VR sensor produces an AC voltage as the teeth go past so each wire is both negative AND positive, see pic of a VR on Rons Fluke “O” scope below… When it comes to the VR sensors for the Ford EDIS, just remember that your EDIS will spark or it wont, simple as that. They can only be connected one way and one way only. If you are mixing and matching VR sensors and EDIS modules, it is a “try it and see” method of figuring it out. You wont hurt anything doing that. It will either spark or not spark at all. If it sparks, then the VR is wired correctly, if there are NO sparks, the first thing I would do is swap the VR sensor wires. FWIW, on our EDIS test bench, we did discover that the Escort EDIS-4 VR sensor when used the EDIS-8 module, the blue goes to blue, gray goes to gray. That same VR with the EDIS-6 module, blue goes to gray and gray goes to blue.. Here is some good EDIS meat … http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=14920 Hope that helps, Paul

10,000 threads.. WOW! Wait a tic… Ah hem… Sooo, Dan?.... You've been a member for only 1 year and 9 months and pushing 2200 posts!?!?!?… Now who is spending more time on Hybrid than out in the garage/shop wrenching on his Z? Sorry Dan, I just looked over at your join date and post count and saw an opportunity to zing ya.. I’m just jealous that I’ve been here over 7 years and have yet to break the 1k mark… .

Happy Birthday Chewie..

I’ve never heard of “Line rider” before. I ran across it purely by accident and found it to be oddly entertaining and creative and thought I’d share. Can you tell us more about this “Line Rider” game?

Very nice. I always just dealt with the old Hybrid search engine nuances, but this embedded Google search feature being just a click away while here in Hybrid is great. Works like a charm… Thank you.

Hmmm.. If you look REAL close at the firing order you posted and visualize that firing order on the crank pins of an inline 6 cylinder, (120 degree crank pin clocking, see pic below), one of two things are taking place. 1) The crank pins are all in the same orientation as the L-series and the engine is spinning backwards, (as Tony D said, a revised firing order is for a reason), 2) or the crank pins for cylinders 3/4 and 5/2 are swapped in relation to each other. I know that has no real relevance to this thread, I just thought it was interesting…

Speaking of stick figures.. This one is classic.. Stick figure attacking its creator… Pretty funny... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0sjp2PSBxtc

Have any of your guys seen this “line rider”? Quite creative and original. Sort of like the stick figure animations with a twist.

Sounds like you are referring to the Maxima N-47 head. Not really a rare head. They were installed here in the states on the late L-6 powered Nissan Maximas, up to ’84 on the L-24E. We have custom built them for a few customers and run them on our own L-28’s. "1fastZ" is quite fluent in this head as well. FWIW, an L-28 with OE Flat top pistons, MN-47 head, yields between 11.4-12:1 comp ratio. Just do a search on this forum for “Maxima N-47” or “MN-47”, as it is affectionately refereed to around here. I’m sure that I have written at least 2 or 3 novels on those heads here on Hybrid over the past 6 years or so and "1fastz" has posted quite bit if not more on those heads as well.

I think Ron is being conservative here. Having driven this car to our shop from the dyno shop, after the “before” dyno pull, and riding in it this week with the head work, new intake, cam and WOLF EFI, my butt dyno says the low end torque is probably pretty close to what it was, though there definitely is more in the mid range and WAY more on the top as it just keeps pulling harder and harder through 7k. This intake definitely allows the engine to breathe freely on top and my butt dyno tells me it didn’t sacrifice much if anything down low.. I know, never trust your butt dyno. Ron will have the actual before and after dyno figures in the near future to either deny or confirm this… Would you settle for a hug instead?.. Oh, and I prefer to be called simple instead of the other “S” word.. We reserve that name for Ron... You do know that I am just goofin right? .

VH45DE.. . . . perhaps?... I just happen to know of one that is available to the North of you. I’ve seen it in action, strong runner, easily converts tires into a cumulonimbus And I just happen to have a picture of it…

If you are thinking long term, find someone selling a complete OE N/A factory L-28 EFI ECU, harness, and AFM, (be sure to use N/A injectors as well), and use that. It will be more of a "bolt on and run" set up offering just little bit of tunability, but only a little. The Turbo ECU, harness, Turbo AFM and Turbo injectors should work fine on a N/A L-28, (keep it a matched set up, so long as you don’t change things like use an N/A AFM or different sized injectors, i.e. keep ALL the Turbo components together, it should be fine.) As for readjusting the Turbo AFM, you “shouldn’t” have to, but I say that loosely. It should be close enough as is, though worst case it may need a little fine tuning, but no coarse adjustments. Good luck, Paul

Justin, Sorry buddy. I really do like you, but not in that way…

Jon, The picture issue was either related to my PC/internet connection or it was short lived. Either why, all is well with #2 now, no more picture issues. Thank you for staying on top of it. Paul

Sorry Dan. All the changes just caught us off guard and we panicked like little girls. Thank you again for the wonderful forum. Take care, Paul

I just remembered that Nissan implemented such a feature on its production Z car in 1990, the Z-32. I found my original 1990 300-ZX brochure and found that section, picture below.