BRAAP

This diagram below, to me any how, is much easier to interpret and is known to work. Follows what z-ya has been saying... 1) NO diode. 2) Pin #4 is unused. My L-28 with MSnS-EDIS was wired exactly to this and functioned perfectly! We used this same wiring on our EDIS test bench for the EDIS-4, EDIS-6 and EDIS-8 as well. Link to the EDIS test bench; http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=14920

The oil pan wont tell us anything. The LS1 and LS2 GTO oil pans share the the same front sump pan. No difference.

LS2 GTO exhaust manifolds arrived yesterday, (as well as another cool goodie. An OE GM .525” lift LSx camshaft with matching springs and pushrods...) First things first, a few GTO exhaust mani glamour shots, then a quick and dirty mock up. After that, the question of manifold outlet size popped into my head… I’ll skip the boring details and save that of the LSx swappers guide supplement later. Short version is the driver side GTO manifold could be made to work, though will require creative down pipe fabrication to clear the steering shaft and rerouting the P/S steering hard line. Passenger side GTO manifold “just” contacts the frame rail. Angle milling the passenger head flange would tuck that side in little closer and clear fine. These are unique in that the out let is aimed aft, not down or partially down. Down side to these manifolds is the small outlet size! Even the outlet of the my stock 5.3L truck manifolds is ½” larger ID!?! For my weenie little 5.3, these exhaust manifolds may not be restricting it too much. But for those of you with an LS2 GTO with stock manifolds, you have more mid to upper RPM power available in getting rid of those manifolds for a set of properly fitting headers! For those wanting a simple Z-32 LSx, not concerned about every last ounce of 400+ HP, these manifolds might be a viable option. Here are some shots I took today… Here are the Z32 GTO exhaust manifold fitment shots. Driver side; Passenger side; Till the next update when the Caddy CTS-V and Vette LS2 manifolds arrive which according to online tracking will be next week some time for both. Awaiting a reply about a set of F-bod exhaust manifolds with possibly a pair of scrap LS heads for mock up only purposes.

For what it's worth, the exhaust manifolds are positively 100% GTO. As Goober mentioned, casting numbers are the definitive...

You will see that sort engine mount in roundy round cars and also in the hardcore extreme road racers, drag racers etc. Here are just a few of the commercially available engine plates; http://www.campbellenterprises.com/mid-motor-plate.php http://www.kenlowe.com.au/KLRC_Ford351.htm https://www.appliedracing.net/index.php?cPath=72_308&osCsid=ea841ca577e519c8fbc20e82eba28668 Our very own BlueOvalZ is using that method in his V-8Z Oxendales 240-Z w/SBF Photos courtesy of Terry Oxendales various web pages… cross member w-P/S and front engine plate, SBF;

I didn't think of it in that light, my apologies. The old school oils may have been just good enough to allow the lifters/cam to live past 200,000 miles... Hmmm... I am considering using a semi-synthetic, possibly full, not sure this 150,000+ mile short block is worth that sort of attention as it will only be in the car for maybe 2 years tops.

Heavy...

OOOhhhhhhh yeeeaaaaahhhhhh....

As pointed out, that IS an EGR manifold. In GREEN is where the EGR valve attaches; In MAGENTA is the EGR plenum. Under each plug of each intake runner is the port that connects the EGR plenum to the individual intake runner.

Crash, That hole is the O2 sensor bung. Can easily be plugged if you choose not to run an O2. Threads are 18mm x 1.5mm. The Old FORD large spark plugs are commonly used as a plug if the O2 is deleted. 260DET, The cam failure I’m pretty sure was not oil related. As I understand it, the lower concentrations of ZDDP in modern oils mostly affects older designed power plants with a flat tappet style cam-lifter interface. Modern roller valve trains are not as susceptible to that sort of failure, which as I understand it, is one of the reason the industry has been able to reduce the Zinc levels. Add to that the 5.3 and 6.0 truck engine are the ones experiencing his failure on a more regular basis than the LS1-6, etc. One theory is that one of the molds of the lifter trays has the lifter twisted, i.e. it is not aligned 90 degrees to the cam lobe as it should be. #10 on the tray and my 5.3 had two of those trays, the lifter was definitely not aligned true! For those interested the Vortec cam failure analyses, read along here; http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1075148-cam-lobe-failure-analyses.html

I agree, its purpose was for entertainment, it just failed to deliver something original. It had the, "oh so typical", beat to death plot. Gigantic egos, fights, car chases, etc. They intermixed that same old teeny-bopper style ego movie with cars and the ricers, (unoriginal car guys), are going nuts over it! The problem with the FnFurious crap is that it has no originality. We didn’t necessarily expect a documentary, though that would also be rather cool, (Anyone reading this thread old enough to remember “On any Sunday”?) We were just hoping it would be a movie with cool custom cars that is original, a movie “car guys” would appreciate and want to see, maybe even twice! Tokyo Drift was probably the most original of the series so far. The story, how the plot builds was typical, but it was original and it was a movie about a side of the automotive sport that is new and original, not so typical. It was still just OK, but better than the others because it was original, fresh, current. The example I used earlier, the original 1968 "Herbie the Love Bug" was fantasy, lots of "unreal" content, far from being any sort of documentary, though entertainment wise was head and shoulders above the FnFruoious. Herbie was original! The plot, the characters, how the movie flowed. etc. Entertainment wise, if people like to see the same old warmed over car chase, fight, more car chase and fight scenes with a boy kissing a girl in the end with some CG thrown in, and with just a splash/smidgeon of a variety of cool custom cars, FnFurois will deliver. If you are looking for something original, new, fresh, with a plot "involving" cool custom cars... the latest FnFurious; FAIL!

Hoke summed it up pretty well. Warning, NOT so humble opinion contained within… I see these box office numbers as proof there are more and more people fixated with their image and ego, wanting to be something they are not, (ricers) vs being genuinely original. The box office figures mean squat diddly regarding the quality of a movie. Look no further than how many kids think their big exhaust tips on a stock four cylinder wrong wheel drive 4 door economy car is a straight up race car! Or at least they want everyone else to think they are cool enough to be driving a racecar on the street... This is the crowd producing those big box office figures! Go figure. Today they are called "ricers". When I was younger we called them posers. same thing really, just a different generation, but a WHOLE lot more of them today! Straight up, the original 1968 release of “Herbie the Love Bug”, (we play it in the shop DVD player regularly), is HANDS down a higher quality movie than ALL of the FnFurious ricer movies could ever be, combined! The characters, the drama, even a good portion of the plot is attentive to the cars by comparison. Some may even say its more realistic/believable!?!?! Stepping down off my soap box...

Crash, Keep us posted. Hope you are able to jump back into the LSx soon! Thank you for the link. Turns out the seller is WAY cool! picked up a pair of her LS2 exhaust manifolds! A little spoiler for those following along. With all the OE LSx goodies I have been acquiring, I will posting a LSx swappers guide. Really more of an addendum to the book pictured below. The book is great, but is definitely geared more towards swapping into 60’-‘70’s domestics, touching on the Vorshlag BMW conversion and a Jag conversion, (no love for the Z car or FD, etc). The book “mentions” the different oil pans and even mentioned the word exhaust manifolds a couple times but is pretty weak in that department, so I plan to supplement that here on the forum with specs, dimensions etc, mocked up on the LS1. Will be a few weeks to month or so out, stay tuned… Courtesy of CarTechBooks

Phil, It wasnt the topic that sent "that" thread to the shed. It was the bickering, which I think Ron stated in the last post.

Thank you!

I agree! So much focus on boasting and egos, yadda yadda... Characters are cool with good history we can relate with, but would be nice to see more focus on all those uber-cool cars, a bit more realism, less prancing ego's, less of the approach to appeal to only 11-14 year old boys who don't know any better. Could've definitely been a more popular series, they just took it so far over the top with the immature ego crap and the beyond fantasy car stunts. In this one, the overall amount of "mine shaft tunnel" work could've been shortened to approx. 30-60 secs, MAX!! My $.02

I'm thinking the same thing. I've got my eyes open for set. Let me know if you stumble across any for sale... Paul

Style is post '70's, if it is an OE wheel, it will be pre '91, i.e. no air bag. If this is an OE wheel, a Shelby car for the '80's. The only that come to mid are the FWD Mopars, CSX, Charger, Omni,... CSX; Charger; Omni GLH; Here is a Shelby CSX steering wheel. Similar style, engravings, etc, but 4 spoke vs 3 spoke...

The Z-32 5 speed is more than adequate for mild to moderate LSx. As you mentioned, retaining that trans would cut down some of the other little projects of such a conversion, such as driveline, speedo drive, shifter, etc. It wont solve any of the firewall or rack & pinion issues we are struggling with. The LSx engine, (if attached to the Z-32 trans), would still sit in the same fore/aft location as I have already choosen with the T-56. This position coincidentally shares the same bell housing mating surface position, fore and aft within the engine bay. Thank you for the tip on the early Vette manifolds. In my manifold research, I had found ’97-’99 Vette “Y” body manifolds were double wall stainless. To be honest, if I were to go through the trouble of hacking up stock manifolds and welding them back together, I would just start from scratch and build my own using the pre-made LSx header flanges available for $60 http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/106259/CSP2385?osCsid=39612603050dd763f7f9e32511ab61af I am also eyeballing other OE manifolds right now. Vette LS2 is similar Tri-Y design, but MUCH shorter overall. I don’t think it is short enough though as the there would not be enough room to get the header pipe/collector turned to clear the rack. GTO manifolds might be an option as well as the CTS-v manifolds. Here are the OE manifolds my research has uncovered thus far that also have my attention; CADDY CTS-V; GTO; (one is sort of a Tri-Y, the other is just a manifold, exit is more horizontal ) LS2 Vette; F-body; Here is Vette, F-bod, and truck mani’s; Here are the double wall steel '97-'99 Vette manifolds 1fastkingcab mentioned;

I want to make a few points public here. Phreds reply to the question is totally acceptable and not only do I agree 100% with Phreds info, his post was EXTREMELY generous in freely offering such wisdom! Thank you Phred for sharing your wisdom with us. I for one, as I’m sure many others will agree, are grateful for your time given to share with us. I truly hope you don’t let one persons ungratefulness deter you from sharing in the future. Your information is always welcome here. Wild Bill, Your reply to Phreds post was out of line. Those sorts of rebuttals are not welcome on this forum! HybridZ Rule #12; http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=135&a=2

Dodge Charger or Omni GLH?

Got inspired to mock up these super-whiz-bang exhaust manifolds tonight. Stabbed the LS1 mock up block with one of my 5.3 cylinder heads in the Z-32 mock up mule tonight, attempted to drop in the Vette exhaust manifolds only to find the collector runs smack dab through the pinion gear of the rack. Shucks! That didn’t work. I really REALLY REALLY wanted to use these exhaust manifolds. For giggles I tried the truck exhaust manifolds. Again no go! The collectors exit just touching the frame rails and the driver side collector passes right smack dab in the middle of the steering shaft! I even tried swapping the Vette manifolds left for right, i.e. "forward dump", just incase I could make that work! NOPE! Crashes with the cross member. Here is the Vette manifold, driver side. The collector is sitting on top of the rack, needs to go “down” approx 3” from this position. Picture below that from underneath the trans tunnel, manifold sitting on the rack! **************** Here is the truck exhaust manifold loosely hanging on the bolts, needs to tilt outwards a little, none the less, collector dumps through the steering shaft which is disconnected in the pic. (MAGENTA arrows linking rack to shaft) That darn Rack and firewall!?!?!?... I’m starting to reconsider the notion of saving the firewall, admitting defeat and realizing … %#*&$%@#... Back to the drawing board…

Its all good, please forgive my brash approach at clarification. For clarifications sake, (your picture is a good one by the way), because all the head bolts broke at the top of the threads, all but one that is, that leaves those bolts just protruding above the deck surface. Now with the one bolt left long, the head will rock/rotate towards the side with the long busted head bolt, (the other busted bolts are low enough, the the head will easily clear them), and will end up "bending" that long head bolt, which is fine, it is no good now any how. I assumed that I had explained that above, though if I would have been more concise then, it wouldn't have led to this confusion. Again, my apologies.