BRAAP

Upgrade? In what way? 1) If performance is your goal, the throttle body is NOT the place to start making changes. The stock throttle body will support in excess of 185 N/A HP. A good tune, and optimum ignition timing is the first place to start. 2) All L-6 Throttle bodies have the same size butterfly and I am pretty sure the '82-'83 Turbo TB is the same Turbo and non turbo, maybe save for the TPS.

Funny thing is I just committed to such a project myself. I came to the realization that to get my LSx in my Z-32 it would require that I cut the firewall, (not willing to do that that particular Z-32), and then the need for a 4 seat car is important for my daily driver is important, so my daily driver Z-32 just sold last night and I'm in the market for a clean E36 sedan, and that will recieve my LSx and T-56 sitting in the shop becoming the new daily driver... Just in case you are serious about an LSx E36, here are 3 companies selling kits that bolt the LSx into the E36, (like the JTR kit but for the E36) In no particular order; http://www.vorshlag.com/index.php?cPath=0_1_4_63 http://www.nahrods.com/ http://www.nash8503.com/index.html One of those kits is in 318Ti runs 11.9 @ 118 MPH! Another car, bone stock F-bod LS1 runs 12.7@ 113mph on all season tires! Teaser shots;

This thread linked below, post #15! (Post numbers are in the upper right hand corner of each post in a thread.) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=146552

Haven't installed an LSx in a S-30 car, but have been collecting exhaust manifolds for another V-8 Z project that has been scrapped. Still in the market for set of F-bod manifolds and possibly LS3 if they are much different than the LS2. Here are some of those OE exhaust manifolds for those interested… I'll try to get pics of the rear dump truck manifolds today if time permits. The C-5 LS1/6 manifold is a pretty nice looking piece for and OE Iron manifold. Primary diameters appear to be approx 1 5/8”- to possibly 1 ¾”? not quite round shaped, more oval shaped. All the merges are smooth and fluid, no steps inside. They are very close to equal length and in a true tri-Y design. Not sure the "Tri-Y" design in of itself has much benefit. Iron being less prone to exhaust leaks, though a little heavier than tubular steel. The interior walls are rough cast, not smooth like tubular steel headers. This pic of the back side shows where the primaries and secondaries pair up in the casting. This pic is looking up the collector. VERY difficult to make out in the picture, but you can just see the primary merge for the forward pair and the merge for the secondaries. The merges look nice and clean. VERY nice casting… GTO manifolds, “smallish” 2” id header flange/dump; Caddy CTS-V LS6 exhaust manifolds. Interesting manifolds these are. The outlets are 2 different sizes. Driver side is 2 3/8” opening, passenger is 2 5/8”?!?! On the driver side, there is quite a bit of material in the casting around the header pipe flange to open up the one side that is fed by the front 3 cylinders therefore balancing the outlet dimension a bit. It is clear that GM spent more time and attention on Vette exhaust manifolds. Here be the pics, Cadillac CTS-V LS6 exhaust manifolds; Parallax in the pic, actual measurement is 2 5/8" ID, not 2 9/16" as depicted Vette C6, LS2 Exhaust manifolds… Outlets are 2 3/8” for both, with a cool header flange gasket. Note the recess in the header pipe flange. Not sure if the Vette pipe flange will be needed or just a flat flange. They seem to be for the most part symmetrical like the other Vette manifolds.

Just a heads up with OE exhaust manifolds. I have been collecting various LSx parts, oil pans exhaust manifolds etc for my ’93 Nissan 300-ZX LSx conversion, (Oil pans, C-5 bat wing, Truck, GTO and F-bod, exhaust manus Truck, LS6 Vette, GTO, LS2 vette, and Caddy CTS-V). I discovered the GTO manifolds, are really only worthwhile if you are satisfied with mild to mundane LSx performance. They are not a performance piece. The outlet ID is only 2”! The C-5 Vette and Truck have 2 ½” outlet ID, At any rate, here are some pics...

Tony, Please read our Rules & Guidlines linked here; http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=135&a=2 1) Thread retitled per Rule #3. 2) Thread moved to appropriate sub forum. Regards, Paul

I'm assuming you mean for your 240-Z. The truck pan will physically fit but the sump is quite low and if the car is lowered the sump will drag the ground. The F-bod pan seems to be the most popular. I have heard that a few have successfully used the Vette bat wing pan. http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/817787-lsx-oil-pans.html

Trade you my D70s for your D80, straight up!

Here is your reading assignment...

YEUP! That is EXACTLY what I'm up to myself. Selling my clean Z-32 and acquiring a BMW E-36 with intentions of installing the LSx that is sitting on my engine stand...

Richard…. Don’t do it! No, really, don’t do this! BMW’s best selling car, the E-36, able to readily accept the LSx pretty much as a bolt in, almost as easy as the SBC S-30 Z car! At least three different companies selling LSx conversion kits… don’t do it… http://www.vorshlag.com/index.php?cPath=1_4_63 http://www.nash8503.com/ http://www.nahrods.com/ Resistance is futile...

HBZ quote of the month..

Looks normal to me. Here is a screen shot of what I see. Yours look like this? Is there a chance that you may have possibly selected "Save Search Preferences" at the bottom with it configured for basic search?

The EFI is the Electronic Fuel Injection. A system designed to deliver gasoline directly into the engine itself. EFI came standard on the ’75 and newer Z cars. The factory Datsun/Nissan EFI does NOT play well with aftermarket cams as it can’t be tuned around cams other than stock,i.e. the stock '75-'83 Z car EFI is programmed for the stock cam and is NOT reprogrammable. You see, a different cam changes the engines fuel requirements at varying RPMS and loads. An aftermarket EFI system allows the owner/tuner to “tune” the system, i.e. adjustable, thereby allowing you to tune or adjust the fuel delivery to match the engines needs. Make a change those needs, such as installing a different camshaft and you can adjust the fueling to match those new needs. The details of how and why are bit more complicated than that, but that should help explain the basic principles.

The Multi-opti-pupil-optomy helps... HBZ supports the "don't ask don't tell" program. Problem here is, you told. My cover, (lovely wife of 20 years) is also a member of this forum and if she finds out?... Member Profile, Goerge Bush :lmao: ....

The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is found in a few locations, but only one of those is the actual definitive Vehicle Identification Number! On the S-30 these are found stamped in the firewall, etched/printed on a plate in the engine bay, on a plate in the drivers door jamb near the striker and stamped/etched into a tag riveted on the dash as seen down through the windshield drivers side. The firewall stamping IS the VIN of the car! That is the one that MUST match the VIN as listed on the title/registration of the car to be legal. If not, you probably should get that straightened out with DMV and verified as clean through your local, county and state police etc. The title/registration of ANY car belongs to the firewall, not some plate on the door or engine bay or dash. Now how much of that firewall technically constitutes the car by definition, I don't know. The dash tag, engine bay plate and plate at the door striker are merely redundant and for quick reference only, not the official VIN numbers. Dashes are often legitimately swapped out for various reasons, hence not definitive. Door striker plates and engine bay plates are just as easily swapped with a drill bit and pop rivet. So long as the VIN as stamped on the firewall matches that on the plates, the rest of the info on those plates belong to that car. If those do not match the VIN as stamped into the car body on the firewall, that will generally raise red flags to the authority that notices the discrepancy and further investigation into all the VIN numbers displayed on various tags, title, on/in the car may take place. My thought here is better off volunteering that discrepancy to the appropriate authorities now than possibly in the back seat of a Ford Crown Vic with your hands behind your back. Not saying that would happen if the chassis is indeed stolen resold to you unknowingly, but it could. Another admin on this forum was pulled over in his LT1 powered 240-Z some years back as the description of his Z matched that of a recently stolen Z in the area. He replaced his dash, which had a different VIN than what was stamped on the firewall printed on the registration. This did not help his situation in the moment! He was in cuffs as they ran both VINs which obviously turned up clean belonging to him. At any rate, the firewall VIN IS your cars VIN and must match your title and registration VIN. On newer cars such as my Z032, the VIN is also etched into the glass of both T-tops, supposedly to deter thieves from stealing and selling T-tops, NOT for vehicle identification. Here are 4 of the VIN locations on a '75 280 THE VIN! Engine bay plate; Door striker plate; Dash plate; Hope that helps, Paul

Howdy Sparks... I think Scott summed it up pretty well. There is probably a few more highlights and some low-lights as well he or others could fill you in on...

Someone knows his way around a camera! Nice work.. Very nice...

I have the G-Tech Pro SS, (would much rather have the RR) and the iPhone 3g with LOTS of apps. If you are wanting an automotive G-force measuring instrument that you can TRUST, one that will measure repeatedly, for the most part accurately, i.e. with data that you can actually use for tuning or entertainment purposes?... Get the G-Tech Pro, NOT the iPhone/iTouch apps. For lack of a better analogy, think of it this way. If you want a Wart removed from your body, would you go to a doctor that has years of schooling about the human body and experience using the precision tools required to do the job or would you go down to Lumberjack Bobs and let him remove it with his chainsaw because you heard from a friend that Lumberjack Bob has done it before? Having both G-tech Pro and iPhone 3g with those G force Dyno apps, I finally deleted all my apps in the automotive genre as they don’t even come close to being “usable”. Ghetto Tech Pro RR for the win, or better yet, some other dedicated software G-meter such as GEEZ! http://www1.pacific.edu/~j-lee10/Data%20Analysis.htm The G-Tech and other accelerometer based automotive data loggers/tuning tools are solely designed around one premise. They generally do NOT hiccup, stutter, stall, etc and the engineers that designed these did a good job at filtering vibrations that WILL skew the G-force measurements that the iPhone/iTouch just doesn’t do! Trust me on the vibration part! The iPhone/iTouch apps in this genre are only fancy dash lights that may be impressive to Ricers and are not reliably repeatable with enough resolution or accuracy to be deemed useful in tuning or measuring. Remember, the iPhone/iTouch sensors, hardware, and software that is reading the built in G force sensors were designed for generic usage and always has the Apple operating system running in the back ground which is not the most stable operating system. Sure the Apps software is powerful with lots of versatility and is up to the task, it’s that interface to the Apple portion within that gets all mucked up. Also, keep in mind, 98% of all the apps are written by Joe Blow on his Mac. Approx 2% of all the apps are actually written by large software entities that have the time, financial, and collective pool of engineers, “resources” writing these apps. That’s my $1.98 on the subject.

Happy Birthday Dan.

WARNING! Technical info to follow.... Seems to be more and more common today for people to throw out technical terms without actually knowing what those terms are, or mean. Not trying to throw anyone under the bus here, just trying to educate those who may read this so that when they are communicating technical info, they are comminuting the correct technical info and receiving the proper technical help. MAF, (Mass Air Flow sensor) and AFM, (Air Flow Meter). 2 totally different sensors that are often incorrectly mistaken for the other. The AFM, or Air Flow Meter, as used on the ’75-’83 Datsun/Nissan Z cars is NOT a Mass Air Flow Sensor. The AFM measures the FLOW of the air, i.e the volume of air entering the engine, not the MASS of the air. The Z car AFM does utilize an air temperature sensor to help correct for air density due to temperature, but still does not directly measure the air MASS which is also affected by humidity, pressure, etc! The MAF, or Mass Air Flow sensor measures the actual MASS of the air, taking into account not only the volume, but also the pressure, temperature, humidity, etc. Therefore, you can clearly see that these two instruments are not interchangeable physically nor in casual or technical conversation. MAF is not AFM or vice versa. Sorta like the difference between a 2 stroke and engine and a 4 stroke. you don't call a 2 stroke engine a 4 stroke, well... because it's not.

Thanks for the link.

Mostly will only post in the public sections of the forum any info related directly to the LSx power-train that would be of benefit to this forum. If I discuss the car and the conversion, it will be just the highlights with some details and pics, etc, in the members projects section, "Other Vehicles"

My car is now up for sale; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147405 Made up my mind on the new car. It will be an BMW E36, 4 door car, manual trans. Ideally an M-3 keeping the option open for any 3 series if the price is right. Next Z car project, if I start one any time if the near future, will be something more serious, weekend warrior track car, something fun, extreme, but street legal so seat time wont be limited to just track days. A gutted and seriously lightened up Z-32, cut the firewall and move the engine back till it fits "just right" with a nice moderately prepped LSx would be rather cool! Finding a beater shell that I wouldn't mind hacking up for pennies will be the key to that project...

Spartan, Thank you. Glad all my efforts thus far were not in vain. I will continue mock up and supply any info I can and do find that may of benefit to you guys that pressing on… The Plastic mock up block will help tremendously. Another key component is to also bolt the trans or a replica of the trans you plan to use as that will establish set back and height due to the bell-housing and trans body clearances etc with the Z-32 body/tunnel/fireawall. Any way, looking forward to seeing your progress. If I can be of any help, don’t hesitate to ask. Same goes for your to Crash.