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Everything posted by BRAAP
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For clarification sakes, not all Turbo dizzys are clock-able 180 degrees, probably should not blanket statement that they can. For example, this particular Turbo Dizzy we have in the shop pictured below with its splined quill shaft shaft also as a half moon on top of the splines, matching counterpart in the dizzy, so it will only clock in ONE position on the quill shaft only not two. i.e. if you remove the dizzy alone, you can not rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall it, it wont go! It will only go in in one orientation. Are all the Turbo Dizzy's this way? I dunno, I don’t play with those much or enough to know for sure, but I don this particular 280-ZX Turbo dizzy wont allow you to rotate the rotor 180 degrees without also rotating the quill shaft. The N/A dizzy with the flat blade/slot arrangement has that slot offset to one side, it also can only be clocked to the quill in one spot only. To rotate the dizzy with the above mentioned designs requires removing the oil pump and the quill shaft 180 degrees, then spinning the quill shaft 180 degrees.
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DIY 180 Degree/Single plane/Flat plane V-8 crankshaft…
BRAAP replied to BRAAP's topic in Powertrain
Tree slayer, Yes, I do agree with your points. Very well stated. The only thing I would bring up is that the import multi valve V-8’s such as the VH and the Yota 1uz, are probably not as limited in RPM as I interpreted form your post based on air flow supported by those cylinder heads for given HP levels head design alone. The ports and chambers of the Import multi valve heads, V-8, and 4 cylinder alike, are fairly similar and for the most part comparable with each other, though they all have their distinctive differences. I would say the VH and 1uz heads are capable of supporting similar air flow for given HP per cylinder head compared to other 4 cylinder heads, at a given stage of modification and cam spec. I agree again. The main reason I went LSx vs VH45DE for my current project, (having both in my possession at the time), is the commonality and simplicity of the LSx design, after-market support, and the freedom of diverse modification that can be achieved on a small budget. -
Staff is aware of the bog and we have our A-team crew working on it. It may take a few more days. Sorry about the inconvenience guys.
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For the most part, past history dictates the quantity and quality of the humor used in specific situations... Touché
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It's all in the camera. Flash photography... These two pictures are a bit more extreme, but you get the idea.
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As I recall the amp for the OE BOSE systems is at the speaker itself. With that, possibly the previous owner may have used the interface for the center speaker only and replaced the door and rear speakers with regular speakers? That could explain the weak sound from the other speakers? My '93 still has the BOSE speakers, Alpine deck that controls hidden iPod, previous owner installed an interface and work fine, (no middle speaker).
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I have always been a fan of the Ford Corporate Blue. Looks good on ANY engine, especially if time is taken to match valve cover and other parts. This Cast-Iron gray available from Aervoe (sort of dark gun metal grey slight hint of metallic/pearl, kinda like Hammerrite, but not Hammerite!) is another one of my favorite engine paints I use regularly. Not sure if POR offers this color or not. http://www.aervoe.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=3&idproduct=69 Sorry I don’t have any pics of blocks painted in this paint. For what its worth, many have used the standard of the shelf cheapo spray paints such as Krylon, Rustoleum, on their blocks, valve covers, intakes, etc. Seems to hold up amazing well for years without discoloration, fading, etc.
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The inferred demographics makes sense as it claims we have 28% female members?!?! I would've guessed that be more like 2-5% females, in the physical sense, and more like 30-40% female member base in the mental/emotional sense.. I guess it's really not that far off after all... Next.......
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What is the purpose of that I wonder? Interesting but not so sure I like what and how that info is being displayed. This forum and the demographics of its members, all laid out open and waiting for unwanted sales... "Ah hecks yeah! A group of mostly males with an overall decent income! Cha-ching!" (We have been dealing with those recurring vaginal yeast infections a bit much lately on here, as such I am very suspect to anything that would bring more of that unwanted trash!)
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Between the inrush of customer projects and ordering and receiving little bits and pieces thus far, misc hardware for the powertrain, etc, there isn't much to update right now, sorry. The biggest news, it looks like I may have sealed a work trade deal for an LS-6 intake! Within the next 3 weeks or so, I'll pull my Z in the shop and remove the VG30DE and 5 speed, unless the poewrtain sells sooner, and will start mocking up in that car then. Hopefully around that time we'll have the custom oil-pan on hand for test fitting as well. That's about it for now.
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DIY 180 Degree/Single plane/Flat plane V-8 crankshaft…
BRAAP replied to BRAAP's topic in Powertrain
Regarding specific outcome of this not so practical exercise, (Ferrari V-8 exhaust note being the goal using a non Ferrari production V-8 ), I think you hit the nail sqaure on the head. Wallet thickness, fab/engineering skills, and the foundation/power-plant to be used, ultimately will determine the path taken for successful completion. -
This thread had been bugging me for a couple months now due to its outdated info such as Scotty pointed out, (back when that original post was made, 2003, it was mostly accurate). I'll get around to cleaning it up later. For now, here is the 5.3 and 6.0 Vortec Truck/SUV aluminum block line up, Gen III and IV, from inception to the current '09 model year. Gen III 5.3L; '03-'04 LM4 '05-'07 L33 Gen IV 5.3L; '05-present LH6, DOD '07-present LC9, DOD, Flex Fuel '08-present LH8, 6.0L; '07-present L76, DOD, truck versions got VVT 6.2L; '07-present L92, VVT DOD = Displacement On Demand or AFM as GM calls it. VVT = GM's Variable Cam Timing.
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Where is the best place to buy a LT1?
BRAAP replied to sanders8800's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
What is your definition of cheap? One of my definitions for that word is it means to plan on spending more to make it right than what I would've paid for a good one to begin with. Are you looking for a good running LT1 complete for like $250 or willing to spend $1500 for average mileage runner? What is your budget? Where are you located? -
Expect it to make cool BRAAAP... BRAAAAAAAP.... noises when you mash the loud pedal, pending other than stock muffler of course. Also, if it is in good tune, fuel ratios and igniton timing are optimized, you'll be rewarded with ear to ear grins from being set back in the seat, typcial of a strong running L-6.
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Hi my name is mario. I have place answers in some wanted adds and I have notice that mine get removed, is there something I am doing wrong? thank you.
mario
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That's IT! BTW, that is how my username came about. My original Z back in the late '80's through mid '90's, L-28 powered, dual exhaust with glass packs. Sports car club I raced with for several years nicknamed the car BRAAP, name stuck...
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I have to agree. The Koreans have definitely stepped up their game in the automotive industry and kept plugging along, undeterred during their not so glamorous, not so well received start up here in the states. Kudos to Hyundai. Back to your BMW.... I know that you have an affinity for the LSx power-plant. I also know you appreciate German automobiles. To me any how, a BMW getting long in the tooth is really another way of saying it is getting ready for its second lease on life with an LSx under hood.
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V-12. Has that VERY distinct V-12 growl. Inline 6 and even some V-6's have that same growl Sounds very much like an L-6 with glass packs. Add a cam to your L-6 that lopes at idle, glass pack muffler and your 98% there, (sound/tone wise that is)! For that "sound" on the cheap and easy, my vote is just add a lopey cam to this exhaust….
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They are still there. “New Posts†doesn’t function the same as the old “Posts 24 hrsâ€. “New Posts†is just that, new posts only. Once a thread has been opened and viewed by you, it won’t show up under "New Posts" again until someone posts in it. You can still access that “Post 24 hrs†feature, it is just bit clunkier now. Click on "Quick Links", a drop down menu appears, then click "Todays Posts" This thread sorta talks about it. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145406
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I have 2 Q-45 R-200's, One of which I pulled from a '90 Q-45 and the other is from my '96 Q-45. In just glancing at them, the only difference I see is the '90 has the larger capacity sumped/finned rear cover, the '96 rear cover looks just like the old long nose R-200 cover, simple plain cover. At some point in the near future, (month or so), I will get the chance to look closer at them both as I will installing one of them in my LSx Z-32 for the taller ratio. If anything stands out as odd or different, I'll post what I find. I am pretty sure that I will have to use the Q-45 half-shafts, but haven't researched to see if the outboard splines are the same between Q-ship and N/A Z-32. I do know that the hub itself is a bolt on to the aluminum upright, so worst case, would be be just botling on the Q ship rear hub/bearing/flange.
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Dan, I wander if the 350-Z diff might be closer to the R-230 internally vs the other short nose R-200’s?… Crush sleeve, wider spread on the nose ear mounts?... I did find in reading the stickies I found brief mentions of the 350-Z diff, one poster (another V-8 Z-32 guy), even asked about the internal interchangeability of the 350-Z diff and the N/A Z-32, but nothing concrete such as specs, dimensions, internals interchangeability, etc. In this thread are pics of the R-200 and R-230. IT looks as thought he R-230 has wider spread of the front mounting ears, maybe similar to the 350-Z spread? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103512 Looks like you’re charting new waters Dan. Keep us posted.
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Very clean inside and out. Looks nice. Ride height looks aggressive... :2thumbs.
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Dan, Just curious, how much different is the "footprint" of the Q-45 diff, (front and rear mounting footprint), to the Z-32 R-200? I have both, just haven't looked at them that close, yet. Almost seems like the Q-45 R-200 might be easier to just bolt in the N/A Z-32 cradle. in doing so you would be compromising ratio for ease of installation, 3.54:1 ratio vs the 3.35:1 ratio, also pending input and output flange/half shafts... How difficult is it to find a TT rear sub frame? That may be the ticket for the 3.35:1 ratio.