BRAAP

Moldson, Saran wrap is only to be used on exotics. Our Datsuns just aren't worthy...

Is that reply meant for a different thread? Who said anything about "rotating" the head?... Not sure what that has to do with this issue. If they were under or over torqued, that would not cause the bolts to break in this manner. Head bolts over torqued to point an issue is created, would only over stretch the bolt beyond its yield point allowing the head to relaese its clamp on the gasket resulting in a head that "pops" sooner than it should've. His issue as he described, is actually common with these old cars. In the hundreds of L series heads that I have removed since the late '80's, I have seen this same issue time and again and has nothing to do with the original torque values when the head was installed last. After years of time, heats cycles, yadda ydadda, the bolts rust themselves in the block, and busted bolts is the result as it takes more force to release them from their rusted haven than is required to snap them! There are NO 8mm screws in the "timing chain". There are however, two "6mm" x 1.0mm bolts in the front of the head that go into the "timing chain cover", but that was already covered in one of the posts above.

Tony, You don’t’ have to worry about warping the head any further. You just need to be sure all the bolts are out, or at least the heads of the bolts broken off. So long as the head of the bolts are no longer attached to the shank of the bolt, there are no more “clamping” loads holding the head down on the block. What you are fighting now is the stuck gasket and the gunk that builds up between the bolts shanks and the bore in the heads for those head bolts which can make it quite difficult to remove the bolt from the head, even after the head is removed the block. Be sure you have removed all 14 head bolts, (or broken them) and don’t forget the two little bolts on the outside of the head, up front that go down into the front cover. Be sure the timing chain is off the cam gear or remove the cam gear altogether. With that, get as aggressive as you dare in prying, lifting, and rocking the head. Depending on which side of the block the long broken bolt is, that is the side to rock the head towards. Once the head come free, this will probably bend that bolt, but don’t worry about that. If it breaks a little further down, even better for easing head removal. Some strategies are using pry bars/boards under the cam, in ports, etc. Be creative, but also don’t damage or mar any components or machined surfaces you plan to reuse. Once the head is off, you’ll have to contend with broken bolts. I feel your pain here. Not an easy task for a non machine shop equipped wrencher. If you are planning to remove the block and tear it down/rebuild it, just leave those stubborn bolts for the machine shop to contend with. If you are feeling daring here are a few tips that will help. For the broken bolts that protruding above the deck surface enough to grab with a pair of vice grips, smacking the tops of them with a hammer hard, VERY hard, then apply lots of heat to the block surrounding the stubborn busted bolt. Smack the bolt a few more times and work at the bolt with vice grips. Smack some more, apply more heat, repeat. The rapid thermal expansion and shock loading from smacking them is the most successful method for freeing up those stubborn rusty/seized bolts. Feel free to try the penetrating oils, over night soaking, etc. I have found that sometimes helps, but not always. The heat and smacking method is my hands down, most successful method for removing stubborn bolts, pipe plugs etc. If that doesn’t work, then its on to more sophisticated means, drilling, picking out residual bolt threads, and worst case, drilling even more and helicoil/threadsert. Hope that helps, Paul

Curious, for those running the OE EFI in their S-30 with the 60mm TB conversion, what else are you guys using besides the above for the intake boot between the TB and AFM?

:lmao:

According to Phils HBZ log in info, it’s true. April 1st... Hmmm... is it really?... Happy Birthday old man. I got you by… 4 and a half years.. …. I wont be working-out at Phil's Gym…

For those Star Wars fans that grew up seeing the original trilogy in theaters and drive-ins, (yes, I AM that old.. ...) some of you may recall a short spoof called HARDWARE WARS, released shortly after the original STAR WARS, with Augie Ben Doggie, Fluke Star Bucker, Princess Ann Driod, Darth Nader, etc. You’ll laugh, you’ll cry, you’ll kiss 3 bucks good bye.. Two part saga on youtube, just over 6 minutes each. A MUST see for ALL STAR WARS fans… Watch them in order, and NO this is NOT a Rick Roll! Only Aux would do that to us.. #1 of 2 #2 of 2

Yeup. He’s right. Ron, myself, and I quote, ... we don’t share anything, EVER! We only horde info for ourselves. Were just selfish pigs and probably should have our internet license's revoked! Please oh please wise one, please continue to announce your ever so wise choice to not share, but only act as you are calling the rest of us. That will only help expedite the inevitable demise of this forum since it started in early 2000, for not being a helping resourceful group of performance Datsun enthusiasts…

:lmao:

Thanks for the follow up. So the problem was?...

LOVE IT! The color and texture of the Z has an uncanny resemblance to Boba Fetts's ship, Slave-1. A few splashes of the tan and olive drab, a few markings for detail sakes, name it "Slave-1", don helmet, hit the circuit! A BMW motorcycle tastefully painted in “Slave-1” paint scheme; http://bmwk1200s.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5566 Courtesy of Starstore Courtesy of collectiondx Are you sure it's win you're reading?

Good grief... Where to start... This hose outlined in "MAGENTA" is going to cause a VERY high Idle speed once it does get running. Either cap it at the manifold and boot or plumb the Air Flow Regulator into it. .... Uh... well... I have to run now... yeah.. go pick up Melanie from school.. BRAAP... OUT!

Just want to clarify for those reading this that think they can just stick a big cam in their stock Z and make more power! That ONLY applies if you are also planning to install an after-market EFI system or carbs! If you are using the stock EFI, do NOT go for the big cam! Trust me, that is a big NO-NO with the stock EFI!

I'm with Howler. Tach twitch, tattle tell sign this is ignition related, not EFI.

Robert, Are you referring to the bolts for the Fuel Injectors as in the picture below? Those are 4mm x .7mm x 30mm long. Fuel rail mount bolts are 8mm x 1.25mm. Cold Start injector mount bolts are 6mm x 1mm.

This link, please... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130441

The domestic AND Euro spec OE L-28 Flat top pistons do protrude above the deck surface of the stock block approx .012"-.022". 1 fast z and my self have covered this topic before. Depending on the clamped head gasket thickness, rod/piston stretch, and piston rock over TDC while operating, the pistons could "kiss" the quench pad of the head. It is NOT uncommon for the over size stamp on the top of the pistons to be imprinted/stained onto the quench pad of the head, i.e. the piston was within mere thoudandths-ten-thousandth of an inch from the head while operating. That scenario is perfectly fine and is about as close to a perfect quench as you can get. Now if the piston rocks enough, and or gasket is crushed enough, or as 1 fast z brought up, the block deck has been surfaced, the piston could be smacking the head, which is not good, requiring a thicker head gasket as the original poster did.

Gollum, I think you touched a couple key points. The popularity and sheer volume of the 4 cylinders places them more firmly in the lime light which the aftermarket will join in on to get their cut of the market, which in turn only evolves the breed to whole new levels. It’s not necessarily that the 4 cylinder heads breathe any more or better than the V-8 versions, (they may, they may not), but the sheer volume and popularity is why we see such growth. As for flow, I would venture to guess the V-8 heads compared to the 4 cylinder heads, stock for stock, flow as good if not more and are capable of supporting as much or more HP per cylinder at given per cylinder displacement. If the Hydraulic slack adjusters in the VH heads are limiting the VH RPM levels due to pump up etc, then converting them to mechanical adjusters should cure that issue. Have a set of cams ground for upper RPM performance, (I understand somewhere in the neighborhood of $1000 per cam), and then build the bottom end to handle the elevated RPM’s, i.e. pistons and rods, maybe a little port work in the heads for good measure and you’re set! If it all were just that easy, right? For the cost, you could almost buy a Ferrari engine, or for a wee bit more money, pick-up a used ex INDY, or F1 engine. Georg Plasa and his Judd F1 V-8 powered BMW 3 series comes to mind!

Gollums link is great source for such data. Thanks Gollum. My $.02 for this application is the weight difference between a VG30DETT and an aluminum LSx is going to be rather small. The ancillaries you choose and other mods to the car, or even tire and wheel choices will most likely have a greater impact on overall vehicle weight difference than the engines alone. The aluminum block LSx should come in at approx 30-50 lbs lighter than a comparably equipped/dressed VG30DETT, and the LSx center of mass will be lower than the VG30DE, which in my opinion, will have a greater impact, (for the better), on how the car feels than the 30-50 lbs overall weight reduction. In my getting all huffy over power train weights a little while back, I wanted to give myself some perspective on how much of an impact a measly 75-100 lbs or so weight difference would have on my Z-32. Granted, this example is not quite scientific as the engine is over the front wheels, my example is weight change over the rear, but you'll get the idea. Automotive (pump) Gasoline weighs approx 6.2 lbs per gallon. The Z-32 fuel capacity is just shy of 16 gallons, (we’ll call it 15 gallons usable fuel for arguments sake). The difference from a full tank to just making it to the gas station empty is 93 lbs. How much do you really notice that weight difference in a 3400-3600 lb Z-32 street car? Depending on how in-tune you are to your car, you may notice the slight difference in overall performance. I personally can just slightly notice the difference when taking off from a stop aggressively, if I am paying attention, but more importantly, I notice a much greater impact in performance from a cool morning vs a warm humid afternoon. In a race car that weighs less than 3000 lbs, race stiff suspension and engine mounts, etc, that weight difference would be noticeable. For a street car as large as the Z-32 is… The weight difference, in my opinion, is so close I prefer not to even think about.

Living on the the foot of Mt Hood in the Cascade mountain range, Sasquatch is huge problem in the regions he covers. Very territorial.

You most certainly are not inferring that it might be easier, as well as morally and ethically correct, to actually take ownership of our mistakes and accept/follow through with the discipline/sentence given, are you?

Throttle servo? We need more info. Is this an OE part? Is this for a Datsun/Nissan, Z? What year and model?

Yeah, just give him a call. He usually is the one that answers the phone, every time that I have called any how. Speaking of which, I need to call him today. I have shipment ready for pick up on Monday.

Lindsay, I have been running Wolf V-500 in my ’93 300-ZX, VG30DE and it is controlling the VVT in that application. I am assuming the ’90-’95 VH45DE w/VVT is similar in functionality to the ’90-’95 VG30DE in that it is a 2 position VVT design, (wouldn’t surprise me if Nissan used the same exact actuators in both), i.e. an on off switch triggers the VVT at varying RPMs. If that is the case, then it is quite simple. (Search the dedicated VH45DE section of the NiCO forum for definitive info on the VH VVT), Here are 3 screen shots of my WOLF V-500 VVT configuration controls for my VG30DE. For the VG30DE, being a V-6, it was easy to just use the #8 injector pin for the VVT control. For the VH45DE just use another available output pin under the "Controlled Pin" window as seen in the first picture as you will be using the #8 inj pin for,... well, the #8 injector. From here the control can biased from other inputs, etc. I’m sure you are already familiar with flexibility and power that the V-500 posses. Hope that helps, Paul