BRAAP

TK 421.... Classic!!!!

I think instead of just deleting oversize sig pics, we should replace them with this oversize sig pic! :lmao: ____________My ride_____________ Then whenever you see someone with that sig pic, rest assured they; 1) Ignored the text that clearly states sig size when they created their sig... 2) Or they are struggling with reading, comprehending, and then applying what they read in plain, clear, concise English, to their daily lives! Who’s first?

No need to worry Derek. "Challenge authority" was a quote from a signature, not a reference to your user name.

... And if we delete it and you resurrect it oversized, the authority of this forum will view that as a challenge! If you like being a member of this forum, it is not a good idea to "Challenge authority" here! The authority on this forum will NOT partake in challenges!

Ron Tyler, Age 5!

DOH! You were asking about module, not the coil pack! Sorry.... The module in the V6 Windstar minivan is easy find.

John, I think you are on right track with your next diagnoses. The thing I might add is to connect a timing light to the #2 & #4 coils and verify they sparking at appropriate time, (#2 should illumiate the same spot on the damper as the confirmed runnig #3 cyl, same goes for #4 and its match#7.) When I read wasted spark, I was asking which aftermarket EMS are you using, MefaSquirt, SDS, or electromotive? I didnt realize the OE VH ECU ran the COP ignition in wasted spark. With that much cranking compression, a leak down is not necesary as that is plenty to support combustion. Keep us posted on what you find. Paul

I am now 100% fully committed to this project. The VG30DE and its accompanying 5 speed are up for sale! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143294

Yeup, you win, now... . Oh wait a tic... This is Aux's thread... It's.. it's...

In the larger cities such as NY, LA, Chicago or SF, concrete blocks are the preferred static nonadjustable jack stand. Here in the beautiful Pacific North West, Douglas Fir is not only the preferred static nonadjustable jack stand, but also doubles as a source of heat on a cold wintery day… Here is shot of my two oldest daughters and Charlie Brown (the worlds dumbest Rhodesian Ridgeback) hauling a load of Datsun/Nissan/Infiniti jack stands up to the house to be used as heat on a cold Sunday afternoon while watching NFL Football!

John, First off, that is one FRIGGIN COOL Hybrid Z-32! VERY nice, very nice… Now to your issue. Looks like you have, without a doubt, verified that fuel and spark is happening at the offending two cylinders, i.e. the swapping of coils, swapping of injectors, swapping of harness, verification of spark at the plugs, etc. Having fuel, and in the correct amount means the fuel issue is covered 100%, (injectors that function correctly in one cylinder should work correctly for all cylinders). Regarding the sequential injection sequencing/timing, see my tid-bit below. At this point, the only two reasons I can think of that would cause the #2 and #4 cylinders not to fire are; 1) Ignition timing of those 2 cylinders is not taking place at the correct time, (which could cause the popping out the intake with more fuel added). 2) The offending two cylinders are not building compression, i.e. leakage past the valves, head gasket, or rings/pistons. (bent intake valves could cause the popping out the intake with more fuel added...) #1) first. (My gut feeling tells me this is the problem...) The ignition event of each cylinder needs to take place just prior to TDC during the end of the compression stroke. Being as you are using a DIS ignition system, (you mentioned wasted spark, MS, SDS or Electramotive?) the ignition timing of each cylinder is controlled by the ECU telling which coil to fire when, pending the coils are wired up correctly. Is there any chance that the the plug wires for cylinders #2 and #4 are crossed? My source tells me the VH firing order is 1-8-7-3-6-5-4-2, which for a wasted spark ignition system would mean the following cylinders are paired to the same coil; 1-6, 8-5, 7-4, 3-2 #2) If those cylinders are getting the fuel, (we know they are), AND if they are getting the spark at the correct time?, (see #1 above), then those 2 cylinders are not mechanically "sealing" allowing compression to build which would allow for combustion. A few things that could be the cause of this issue are bent/stuck valves, broken rings or busted/holed piston, or a severely blown head gasket. The quick and dirty highly accurate way to check this is to perform a cranking compression check. If the 2 offending cylinders produce comparable compression to the other cylinders that run, then all is fine and the issue is most likely improper ignition timing, i.e. high tension leads for #2 and #4 need to be swapped. If the cranking compression is less than 100 PSI, (or metric equivalent), that would explain the lack of combustion in those 2 cylinders. From there you would want to perform a leak down compression test to verify where the compression loss is taking place, i.e. intake or exhaust valve, piston/rings, or head gasket. With the faulty cylinders pressurized, listen in the crank case, (oil dipstick tube or oil fill in the valve cover) for hissing indicating broken pistons/rings, listen in the exhaust pipe for leaking exhaust vales, listen in the intake inlet for leaking intake valves, and listen in the radiator for bubbling/hissing from a blown head gasket. To be honest, my first guess is the #2 and #4 spark plug wires are crossed. My second guess is bent valves from either a busted timing chain or rotating the crank with no timing chain installed. As for the injector sequencing. That will have absolutely NO effect on this issue. Remember, the original EFI 280-Z had batch fire injection. ALL the injectors open and closed at the exact same time, once per crank revolution, regardless of where each of the 6 cylinders were at in the 4 stroke cycle, (some had open intake valves, some were exhausting, etc), and it ran fine. If your injector sequencing was not correct, you wouldn’t even be able to feel the difference, let alone cylinders not fire at all. The benefits of properly timed sequential injection is slightly more stable idle and better emissions at idle. As I recall, I "think" the VG30DE and VH45DE EFI will actually switch to batch fire under WOT? In short, if the injector is opening and closing at the same pulse width as the others, and it isn’t clogged, that cylinder is getting the correct amount of fuel and will run, if compression is being made AND the spark plugs are firing at the "proper" time! Hope that helps. Please let us know what you find. Paul

In the wrecking yard' date=' find the FORD V-6 vehicles, mid to late ‘90’s. If the engine has a distributor then move on to the next vehicular. If no dizzy, locate the spark bolts in the heads and trace the high tensions leads back to the coil pack. If no high tension leads, then just look on a around the engine. If you can’t find one, check eBay or I’d be glad to pull one from my local yard, ([i']usually has more than a few[/i]), $75 including shipping in the lower 48.

Yessiree!

Here “was” my Yellow 240-Z. Sold the shell to another Hybrid member, who is currently Hybriding it, (is that even a word, Hybriding? Well it is now, I just made it! )

Quoted form another thread; Since that post there has been discussion regarding leaving the quill shaft alone with no adverse affects, i.e. not cutting it down. I would agree it probably wont hurt anything to leave it be, my personal preference is that it is so easy to remove and cut down and not have to worry about if it will or wont, be an issue in the future.

http://www.ls1tech.com, and http://www.LS2.com are both incredible sources of in depth LSx info. Here are the various LSx oil pans with pics, dimensions, etc; http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/817787-lsx-oil-pans.html This page covers many of the differences between the various LSx engines such as the 3 different accy drive depths, diagrams of 6 different accy drive configurations, the different intakes, water pumps, etc; http://nookandtranny.com/Info_LSx.html This section of LS1tech.com has a good LSx swap/conversion FAQ; http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids-28/ Hope that helps, Paul

I’m interested in that bit as well. I currently have these 2 books below, both are EXCELLENT primers for info regarding the LSx engines, casting numbers, specifics, BOTH books cover the truck 5.3 and 6.0 engines etc. Courtesy Motorbooks.com Here is an excerpt from the "How to rebuild GM LS Series" book; Courtesy SA Design Courtesy SA Design Ordered these two which should be here any day now! Courtesy Atlanticspeed.com Courtesy Cartechbooks.com

Just ran across this new book, wont be available till some time this month… http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/showdetl.cfm?st=0&st2=0&st3=0&CATID=19&Product_ID=3735&DID=6 Courtesy of CarTechBooks

I don’t get it guys? The mock up mule is HOT! All 4 four corners and roof have custom body work, well ventilated cabin, dash isn’t cracked… You mock it now, but one day… it’ll roll again… … on a trailer on its way to the scrap yard!

I received the exact same E-mail from YouTube a couple weeks ago. Video of dropping a LEGO dude out my RC airplane, him parachuting back to Terra Firma. I used a ZZ-Top sound track! DOH!

This page is also VERY informative regarding the accy drive-to-block spacing and even the different Accy belt routings as used on various LSX applications; http://nookandtranny.com/Info_LSx.html A pic from that page; Courtesy of NookandTranny.com

Thanks for the heads up guys and hopefully this will help others having the same issue. I'm not software savvy but my VERY buggy iMac with Safari has no issue with it. My guess, as mentioned above, probably has something to do with pop-up-blocker settings, firewall settings, Java script settings, or internet browser settings on the individual computers, i.e. the issue is based at the users end, not the servers end.

Post #9 in this thread linked below I am pretty sure applies directly to this situation using to the LS2 style water pump. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/265717-helpful-accessory-drive-conversion-gm-part-numbers-oem-parts.html ***edit*** Vinh hit the nail on the head. Ness has the Vette accy drive configuration which is one belt width closer to the engine vs. the F-body Accy drive. Sorry about that...

Here are the Pros and Cons as I see them; VG30DETT PROS; 1) Already fits perfectly in the car with no mods to the body, wiring, cross member, oil pan, exhaust etc. It already fits! 2) More plentiful than the VH45DE. 3) Considerably more aftermarket support than the VH45DE. 4) Are capable of insane power levels with “off the shelf” aftermarket internals. CONS; 1) Is an absolute pain in the arse from a maintenance standpoint (which is one of the biggest reasons why I am yanking my VG30DE form my ’93 and installing my VH45DE or and LSx, leaning more towards the LSx so the VH might be for sale). 2) Is reality heavy for its displacement. The VG30DE is only a smidge lighter than the VH45DE yet is giving up half again its displacement to the VH45DE, 1500 CC worth! VH45DE PROS; 1) Has half again the displacement of the VG30DE, which means that for a given comparable build/tune, N/A or boosted, will produce approx half again as much power! That's 50% MORE for given build level/tune! 2) Any weight penalty the VH45DE brings is so small you wont notice it driving the car! 3) Capable of Ludicrous power levels under boost with custom internals! CONS; 1) Not as much aftermarket support. Cams, rods pistons, etc are more of custom item than an “off the shelf” item and will carry a higher price tag. 2) Have to adapt the VH45 to the Z32 5 speed or other manual trans if you prefer manual shifting or, if auto is your flavor, the VH45DE auto I understand is very similar if not the same case the as the VG30DETT case, just different bell housing? That would actually fall under the PROS list 3) More down time during the conversion as a combination of oil pan, cross member mods will need to be performed as well as fabbing motor mounts etc. Then adapting the P/S, A/C, Alternator, etc. 4) The stock intake manifold will not clear the stock Z-32 hood. If I do the VH45DE I will be scratch building a custom intake, don’t want to mod the factory aluminum hood. There are many other finer details to that list and depending on your mechanical savvy and fabrication skills can be daunting to tackle or just another fun project you can’t wait to sink your teeth into. I didn't include budget as the cost of either will be heavily influenced by your resourcefulness as a fabricator, parts scrounger and information digger. Best of luck, Paul

Abel, Please read through our rules guidelines linked below, this thread violates Rule #3 Oh, and the IM text short cuts are another no-no on this forum and please make an effort to capitalize, Rule #5 http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=135&a=2 Thank you, Paul Edit, I corrected the thread title for you!