BRAAP

Porcupine... and I'm going to ask.. Why? In the ear ear buds or cover the ear head phones?

We weighed an LT 1 T-56 and a Z-32 5 speed on the same scale and as memory serves, were within 2-3 lbs of each other. 135-138 lbs rings a bell. The actual weight might be a little off.

Hmmm…. Interesting concept… It wouldn't be a smooth harmonious exhaust note as this thread is about, but the exhaust note would be interesting.. Hmmm... I think a real big issue with that design would be vibration, and OMG lots of vibration, but again, the exhaust note.. Hmmmm…

Zmann69, This really is more of a personal opinion rather than technical help. Planning a V-8 Z-32 project myself, already have the Supercharged SBC V-8 with T-56, clutch flywheel etc. Mockup in the ’90 parts car to start late summer. I personally do not like the Z-32 transmissions. If I were planning to keep my N/A VG30DE in my Z-32, I would be chucking that OE 5 speed in favor of an S-30 280-Z 5speed in a heart beat! My Z-32 synchros in 4th are going, 5th are hit and miss at best, 1st gear will engage ONLY at a dead stop, and I hate that rubbery feeling at the end of the shifter throws. First Z-32 had very worn synchros as well, and commonly stumble upon others sharing similar experiences, though not all Z-32 owners feel this way. Any how, here is my pros and cons list for the Z-32 5 speed vs the T-56; Z-32 tranny Pros; 1) Strong. 2) Fits the Z-32 chassis and OE shifter hole in console. Z-32 tranny Cons; 1) Synchros are a known weak point. Any trans over 80,000/100,000 miles probably should be rebuilt, (add the rebuild cost to initial trans cost) 2) Shifter feel, even with new/good condition bushings, is rubbery at the end of the throw, much like a front wheel drive cable actuated shifter. The S-30 transmissions offer a more precise, positive shifter feel with better feeling synchros. T-56 Pros; 1) Bullet proof! 2) Weighs no more than a Z-32 trans. 3) has an extra tall 6th gear for greater freeway mileage. 4) Shifter feel is very precise and solid, with a positive feeling detent as it clicks into each and every gear. 5) Fits the GM engine so no custom clutch or tranny adaptor is needed. T-56 Cons; 1) It is heavy, though for this strength level for a street-able transmission, the T-56 is arguably the lightest for its torque capacity, (and is within a pound or two of the Z-32 5 speed). 2) Shifter location might not line up perfectly in shifter hole depending on where the GM engine is placed in the engine bay. Building a dog leg into the shifter is quick and dirty solution if need be.

Way funnny... Bet he is sleeping on the couch for a few nights..

Hmmm.... This one is tough... Gonna go with 2 Z's, one S-30 and one Z-32. Does that classify as technically two different cars?

Zep or Van Halen, BOTH! Drift or Track? (Showing off or Racing) Fer reeels mahn... Definitely prefer my accolades as lap times over someone else's perception of style points... Track for the win... For a set predetermined HP level, (power level of your choice), how do you prefer to achieve said power level; Displacement or Boost?

DOH!!!! Totally busted for totally not paying attention.. Sorry about that... My new signature...

Boring run of the mill all season 215 60HR 14" Chokyermama brand passenger car tire, black in color, somewhat round in shape, barely holding air, sidewall split/cracked, obviously way over age and totally unsafe, and this passenger rear wheel is also missing half of its lug nuts... Now that the painfully obvious has been stated by me, aka, Captain Obvious, in all seriousness, you might try looking on the other side of that tire and there should be the model number, i.e. Y-388, etc...

(Thread moved to appropriate forum...)

This is borderline tool shed fodder for sure… What exactly do want from us? Your question in its most general vague sense is one only you can answer! 1) Yes it can be done! 2) How hard it is to do depends on the installers fabrication competence level, imagination, and resourcefulness. 3) How much it will cost depends on how much you are willing to spend vs how much time you are willing to devote, how much you are willing to scrounge and DIY! Once you get a grasp on these; 1) Determine your goals of the vehicle; Daily driver, street strip, track day, fair weather only, etc? 2) How much time are you willing to invest in a Hybrid project? 3) How long are willing to be without your car during the conversions, (then double that for a realistic time frame) 4) Budget willing to put forth to get the car on the road? ...then we can get down to the nitty gritty details such a possible engine mount isolators for a daily driver or race car, what manual or automatic transmission for the intended usage of the car, etc are areas we can help. If you can't put answers to these questions, then you are NOT ready for such an undertaking.. Good luck, Paul

This is an old moldy thread… So much has been learned and shared here since this thread started, you might want to give this thread linked below a read regarding all the power to be had by going to a big throat throttle body, which begs the question WHY get one, not so much WHERE to get one... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119899 Good luck, Paul

Not... Preparation-H or Tucks?

So, what do they mean? Really?

What about when some one walks up as you get out of your Z-32 and they ask, "Which model of Saturn is that? Didn't know they made a sports version!" Must be the headlights, sorta similar to the early Saturn cars?...

You asked a technical question about a car on a highly technical car forum. Chances are you’ll most likely receive technical answers to your technical question about that car. If you don’t know anything about the car, then asking a technical question you wont understand the answer to, is a waste of time for you and everyone else involved. Take it to a shop. In case you are willing to diagnose a little on your own, I’ll recover the possible issue you might be experiencing with your shifter as I tried to explain above. You do know how to remove and reinstall the shift lever itself right? 1) If so, then remove it! 2) With the shift lever out of the car and in your hands, exam the portion of the shifter that is BELOW the pivot! The pivot is the hole in the shift lever towards the bottom that the pin, (the pin looks like a bolt without threads), passes through and the shifter pivots ON while you change gears! This section of the shifter below the pivot is tapered and has a ball on the end with a plastic cup on it that swivels. 3) In examining that portion of the shifter below the pivot, the thicker portion of the taper near the pivot hole, might have shiny rub spots indicating that the shifter is NOT being allowed to fully engage due the lower portion being too long, i.e. the wrong shifter for that transmission. 4) If that is the case, then you have 2 options here; a) Use a shift lever that the tapered portion below the pivot is shorter than the shift lever you are trying to use. Grind way those shiny/rub areas to allow the shifter to fully engage when you put it in gear.

Lasagna all the way... Jessica Rabbit or Elastigirl

I recall many many moon ago, (something like 15 years ago in the original BRAAP Z car), using a 4 speed shifter in my 5 speed tranny required grinding notches below the pivot for full gear engagement, otherwise, 1st, 2nd, 5th and Reverse would not “fully” engage and would pop out of gear. Reason being, the lower portion of the shift lever for the 4 speed shifters below the pivot is a tad longer than the 5 speed shifter, thus making it just a tad shorter throw, but will not fully engage due to the longer length lower section. There is a fix for this… Remove your shifter and if you see shiny/rub spots on the tapered portion of the shift lever below the pivot, that will be your tell tale indicator that you need the 5 speed shifter or you need to modify/grind this shift lever. You can easily grind the shiny portions away to acquire the proper clearance. Only remove small amounts of material, and run the shifter through its motions and grind only hat needs to be ground away for 100% clearance in all gears with new shifter bushings.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA... HAHAHAHA.. Sorry Hugh, but that is way too funny... Thank god it wasn't your seats, dash etc... Hughs dog!!!!

Daniel, You are quite welcome. 1) Pictures of the condoms below. Full length and cut down. (Found a spare good condition Viton stem seal for the photo shoot…) 2) Yes, the Felpro Viton seals can easily be damaged. The Felpro, or any other OE replacement stem seal is a no-brainer to install and any shop/grunt can safely install them without issue. First pic is of the condoms and also shows a normal Viton seal, i.e. NO bulge and spring is intact… This pic shows the FelPro Poly Carbonate and the Viton seal side by side. You can clearly see the height difference.

The Felpro VITON stem seals were not designed for the L-series, but for Ford V-6 engines. They will work on the L-series and are desirable as they are shorter allowing more retainer to seal clearance, the Viton material is much more resilient and a longer lasting material vs the OE specified seals which generally a Poly Carbonate that becomes brittle over time. When installing the Viton seals, extreme patience and care is required. I’ve installed literally hundreds of those stem seal on L-series heads and learned the hardway, i.e. more than few sets of stem seals trashed during the learning curve. Here is my current procedure for installing these seals. 1) Always use the stem seal condoms over the valve stem to protect the seal from being cut as it passes over the keeper groove. For the L-series, I always cut those stem condoms down to half their length. 2) The top of the guide AND the inside of the stem seal need a thin film of oil. 3) “Carefully and gently” ease the seal down the valve stem till it contacts the valve guide. Now with even more care and precision, and bare hands, grab the metal perimeter of the seal and spin it while pushing against the guide. This will help just start the seal over the guide. This is not a 100% guarantee it will go one without any issues but it does reduce the tendency of the inner rubber to tear and bunch up on top of the guide as it is being installed. Trust me on this!!! 4) Now that you have the seal started on the guide, using your seal installer, (bare hands will NOT push these seals on all the way) the normal tendency is to push them on all the way! Resist that temptation with all your might as the Datsun guides will bulge the top of these seals out, sometimes off to one side leaving a gaping hole between the seal and the valve stem for oil to drain down the guide an into the port and this is also when those springs pop off. 5) Some of these seals are green, some are black, (no idea why the difference, its just what I’ve seen in all the ones I’ve installed, all the same part number). If you notice that the green or black portion has been overly stretched, evidenced by the white stretch marks near the metal shield surrounding the seal, the seal is no longer any good and needs to be replaced. 6) When installing these seals, it is imperative you have an extra set on hand as it is inevitable one or two will get boogered up during install. Some times I can build 5 heads with not one issue, then I can build up 2 heads in a row and end up trashing a couple seals per head. 7) Again, scrutinize the installation of these seals very carefully as they are very finicky and easy to screw up. For mild lift cams on engines that wont see more than 100,000 miles, the poly carbonate seals are a no brainer choice, in my opinion. Here are a couple pics of this seal improperly installed, spring has popped off… This pic below shows the bulging of the green rubber from being installed to far; This pic below shows the gap surrounding the valve stem as a result of the bulging from being installed to far down, i.e. there is more clearance between the valve stem and seal than there is between the valve stem and the valve guide itself!!! You can make out the top of the guide through that gap!!! Oil burner for sure!!!

Garvice, The late 280-ZXT dizzy has the trigger wheel you are describing, 6 equal width slots. The ECU that utilizes that trigger wheel has no way to know where number #1 cylinder is and does not need to know that. The ECU just needs to know when to fire the coil, the dizzy directs the ignition pulse to the correct cylinder, the injectors are batch fire and all fire at the same time, once per crank revolution, so ever third slot that goes by the optical sensor, the ECU triggers the injectors. The added Sync hole allows the WOLF EMS to identify where cylinder 1 is at, not sure if we can get WOLF to interpret the variable width slots. Hmmm… As for Mega Squirt and optical sensors, I have no clue if Mega Squirt can interpret or utilize the additional sync hole we use with the WOLF EMS or if it is capable of interpreting the variable width slots of the newer style VG30DE/RBxxDE chopper wheels.

Are you using the Wolf Direct Fit, (aka plug and play) with the stock RB wiring harness on your RB? The Wolf “Direct Fit” utilizes a black box in the OE harness connector, as I understand it, that is where the magic takes place in interpreting the VG30DE/RBxxDE optical sensor. I don’t know for sure how, my best guess is that the black box is interpreting the width of the slots to determine cylinder #1.

The ONLY head worth putting on an L-24 just for the sake of performing a head swap is the ’81-’84 Maxima N-47, aka MN-47. Any other cylinder head, why bother? NO gains will be had unless you are building a custom L-24, port work, 5 angle valve job, cam, modified SU’s or Triple carbs or aftermarket EFI, etc. At that, it is just about as much work as swapping in an L-28, and the extra 400cc of displacement also brings with it just that much more torque and power which is very noticeable in the seat of your pants. Then build that L-28 to the same level you would an L-24 and you still have that extra 400cc churning out that much more torque and HP! In short, there are many other areas you can spend time tinkering with on and L-24 to improve its performance that will yield far greater performance and drivability gains than a head swap. Stock for stock, there really isn’t much of any perceptible difference in power production between the various L-series heads. The difference is in the “tune” Tuning is worth way WAY more power than a head swap for an L-series. My $.02