BRAAP

Kjvildal, One post, in one thread is adequate. Please refrain from cross posting.

Ken, Thank you. Yes I'll take them. I’ll PM with a shipping address, also let me know how much including shipping and I’ll PayPal that to you right away. Just removed an inner ball joint, threads for the ’92 Loyale rack are 14x1.5 mm.

Yes, so far it does, well, the rack out of the ’92 Suby Loyale that we are using fits and physically is very similar to the Forrester rack. We are installing this rack in a bone stock ’78 S-30, rack is currently mounted in the cross member hanging under the engine. I’m rereading this thread looking for simple options to connect the rock the Datsun steering knuckles. After reading Kens findings, I need to remove an inner ball joint and verify thread size first.

Mark, Any pics of the shortened portion of the rack? We are currently in the middle of using a ’92 Loyale rack in a bone stock ’78 S-30, (the female owner of this car needs lighter steering). We have the cross member altered and the rack bolted in and hanging under the car currently, undecided as t our approach to simply/inexpensively/quickly get the rack attached to the steering knuckles. EDIT; I just found in the other Subie rack thread that there are different inner ball joint thread sizes. I had better check ours before I go any any further. …… For those interested, this rack is slow compared to the Datsun rack, not a quick rack like the WRX. I’ll have to get back to you on the exact rack travel per revolution of the steering wheel

GL l.

I was about to make note that "someone" forgot to use their shift key when they created their username, but now I see that has now been, shall we say, "rectified!" BWAHAHAHahahahaha…. (BTW, Ron. There will be a 32oz FOSTERS waiting for you on the roof of your 260-Z in the shop in a few minutes.) Tough crowd here… I answered your post in your user title… Exactly! The sports car club I have been auto-crossing with since the late ‘80’s named my Z BRAAP due to its perfectly pronounced exhaust note… Name stuck, I ordered the matching Vain plate and used it as my username… The reason I choose all caps is it is a sound, more than name… That's my story and I'm sticking to it!... NO I don't have ANGER PROBLEMS!!!!!! Get your arse back in the garage turning wrenches on your Z!! NOW!!!!

Ah the ole "Two barrel, mechanical secondary, MPFI! I'm sure somone can configure those TB's for vacuum secondary operation, I.e. Load sensing/controlled secondary operation. Z. Sorry, I couldn't hold that any longer fella's Now if you can get 6 of those, one for each intake port, then have the smaller primary feed a really long small diameter runner, then at a set RPM at WOT, the secondary buterfly opens up to a shorter larger runner, like the Yamaha built Taurus SHO V-6?!?!?

All Z-32's have the V-LSD.

Okie Dokie....

Some states only require cars manufactured in ‘75 and later to test for emissions. The 260-Z is a ’74, and in those states, the 260-Z is exempt from emission testing. Not knowing AZ testing requirements and limitations, and assuming your car “is” required to go through emission testing, the technical long answer is; Any tampering, alteration or removal of any part of the emission control system is technically a federal crime, though it seems to be very rare when someone is charged with doing such. Whether or not you think you can “sneak” the car through without a “visual” inspection is a crap shoot and is dependant on the state, facility, county, city testing requirements, and to some degree, even the individual administering the emission test. Short answer is… Good luck, and let us know how you do…

Short nose R-180?!? JDM S-13... Didn't know it existed. Can you tell us more about this short nose R-180 and what other Nissan and possibly Subaru vehicles with this short nose R-180...

Think it’ll help? My guess is it wont. If they are too lazy to type, they’re probably to #$%&’n lazy to read too…

Fiat X1/9. Small, über low CG, mid engine, "extremely" competitve platform in street prepared and faster SOLO-II classes.

Very cool. Congrats on the low mileage find. Are there any performance goodies in it, power train or chassis wise? Funny you mention a Z you can drive… Since I acquired my ’93 N/A coupe last year, my Supercharged V-8 ’75 S-30 project has been receiving less and less attention as this Z is a driver. I’ve also noticed that more and more of my Z budget for the S-30 V-8 project has ended up in the Z-32… It’s kind of funny really. For some reason, when a Z-32 has OE wheels and is shown to a group of Z enthusiasts, the first thing they all notice is whether or not the wheels are on the right side of the car or not. When I bought my ’93 N/A Coupe, the fronts were on wrong and on one of the forums, right after I unveiled it with pictures, the very next post was the comment about the front wheels being wrong… My guess is Z enthusiasts are using the wheels being mounted correctly or not to ascertain whether or not the owner/driver is a Z enthusiast or if they just bought the car because it looked cute in the auto-trader-ad/on the dealer lot

Curbs in the Wally World drifting lot at 2:00 AM will induce “different” stresses on the suspension components vs Auto-crossing and Drag racing, for sure.

All right fellas. We all struggle with exercising self control on occasion, and with some of you, it’s a common theme. When signs of indecent or borderline moral content shows up in a thread, that lack of self control ends up as a dog pile in the gutter. This thread is becoming a perfect example of that. Discussions on topic are fine, including the content of this thread. lighthearted fun is good and acceptable, even within the topic of this thread, though please do make an effort to exercise some common sense and restrain yourself when a thread is on the way or has already hit the gutter, (if you are lacking common sense, I hear eBay is selling it). Lack of self control puts you under the Admins microscope, if you know what I mean… Pushing the envelope for the sake of pushing, will QUICKLY make you and your HybridZ membership a public example to all who read this forum of how we will not hesitate to show you the door. Some of you in this thread are starting to tear the envelope, SAVVY?!?!?!?!

OE EFI intakes are very similar from a “power producing/air flow” stand point, (we are not discussing the visual aesthetics here). There are two style of plenums, full length open box style for the early N/A and Turbo intakes and the necked sown plenum for the later N/A plenums are necked down toward the rear of the plenum. Another difference is webbing between the runners. Early intake had no webs, later intake have the webs. The Jury is still out if the webbing acts as a heat soak affecting IAT or acts as a heat shield reducing IAT, to many variables between different L-6 installations, engine bay air flows, exhaust manifolds and heat shielding etc for there to be a definitive answer. Regardless of the webbing, due to the restrictive runners of the OE EFI intakes, the discussion of which OE EFI intake is most ideal for performance, in my not so humble opinion is inconsequential. I say either use the one you already have or find the one that you like to look at when the hood is open and will still pass Emissions, (if you need EGR or not), and use that one. Seat of the pants you will NOT feel any difference switching between open plenum and necked down plenums with the N/A manifolds. The runners are so choked down that any difference the plenums could/would yield in how then engine produces power is negated, not being realized. On the dyno, the necked down plenum vs open plenum N/A manifolds will perform the same! With runners capable of allowing the engine to breathe, those plenum differences would be small, and the consensus seem to favor larger Plenums, though there is some argument for smaller plenums in some applications. Now the Turbo intakes have just slightly larger ID runners, (see information below), and if you researched OE EFI intakes, then you are aware that the runner ID of the factory EFI intake manifolds is only 53% the cross sectional area of the intake valve itself, ie.. the RUNNER is the restriction and any other changes even larger than stock throttle bodies will not yield any gains, till the restriction is no longer a restriction, i.e. the runners of the manifold! The Turbo runners are only slightly larger than the N/A runnners and should yield approx 2-4% more power over the N/A, again, nothing you could feel seat of the pants, and there is FAR more power to be gained in dialing in the tune, i.e. AFR’s, ignition timing and getting the ignition system up to snuff, i.e. Quality wires, (Taylor plug wires are NOT what I'm referring to when I say quality wire. Jacobs, Nology, and Magnecor ARE!), NGK spark bolts with projected tip for N/A engines. As of late, there has been a few members here making an effort to improve air flow with EFI manifolds, building their own manifolds and also carving up OE intake manifolds in an effort to open up the runners to allow the engine to breathe more freely. Those folks are on the right track. Here is a cut and paste of a post I made just little over a year ago in another thread… These exact Turbo manifolds measured below are currently for sale, listed here… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132395 Hope that helps… Paul

This compressor pictured below is the exact one I use for all my engine builds, from Datsun’s to 540 CID Big Blocks. Inexpensive, consistent, very quick to use and move on to the next piston, and it’s universal. Sure, a dedicated tapered ring compressor for the exact size is just a tad easier and nicer, though not everyone has the space to store or a budget to acquire 200+ individual ring compressors! The corrugated shape of this style is a huge benefit in that it remains on the block deck instead of slipping down the bore between the piston crown and cylinder bore wedging itself there like the cheapo band style ring compressors do. I do NOT know this eBayer, though anyone wanting a decent inexpensive ring compressor should seriously consider this one, or keep a sharp eye for another... http://cgi.ebay.com/Ring-compressor-3-inch-to-5-inch-pistons_W0QQitemZ130227237494QQihZ003QQcategoryZ29527QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

How dare he Post VH45DE ITB’s?!?!?!

Clifton, I hate ITB’s! I especially hate them on V-8’s, and my VH45DE destined from my Z-32 definitely would NOT benefit from such an induction… How dare you “tease” us like that! You SUCK!!!! Would you mind posting that pic in the thread linked below? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132563

Spun rod bearings, either due to lack of oil for one reason or another, or this is a brand new rebuild and the clearances were wrong. Most likely lack of oil. One scenario is plugged oil pick up screen from excess silicone that squeezed out from the gaskets during the build, or the oil pick screen is too close to the bottom of the pan due to not checking it during installation or something hit the oil pan closing that gap, or you just ran it out oil. At any rate, my opinion is that until you resolve "what caused this", just swapping in new rod bearings wont do anything other than offer your neighbors and bystanders entertainment as those bearings quickly turn into junk. I feel you are better off with a new engine or “completely” rebuild that one. BTW, You do understand this is a Datsun/Nissan Z car forum and that we are dedicated to extreme performance Datsun/Nissan Z cars, right? We are not a generic mainstream V-8 troubleshooting forum. We do talk about our other vehicles and their issues from time to time, but we also keep at least 90% of our discussions on the subject of this forums mission, extreme Datsun/Nissan Z cars. The “Site Support” portion of this forum is for posts regarding this forum on whole, not engine related issues, which is why your thread is here now.

They thread into the block only! Sometimes, enough grime builds up in the bolt holes that pass through the head and the bolts will "thread" out of the head during removal, making it seem/feel/look like the head is also threaded, which it is NOT! Just be sure to clean that grime out of those holes when you reinstall the head. Hope that helps. Paul

Tuesday is technically, “after this weekend”, and I for one, am having a hard time waiting for “the details!” hint hint...

With my first V-8 Z, the original BRAAP car, ’75 280-Z, Chev 350 with W/C T-5 in I went to great lengths for oil pan ground clearance. I hated dragging the pan coming off speed bumps etc. in the end I ended up with a Hamburger brand oil pan with kick outs which is already pretty shallow at a measured 7” inches, (pictured below) and I shortened further as well. I used the stock volume pump which was only ¼” off the bottom of the pan itself, the pick up kicked up for 3/8”-1/2” clearance. I then added another 1/16” sheet metal across the bottom to beef up the bottom even more for that “just in case” to keep the bottom of the pan of bumping the pump if it did drag. That was back in the late '90's, I forgot exactly how shallow the pan was, though 6 1/4” inches rings a bell. Essentially, it was the absolute shallowest you can get an oil pan using a wet sump, i.e. stock pump. This placed the bottom of the oil pan at the same elevation as the bottom of the front cross member. Keep in mind the the High Volume pump is deeper by the extra length of the gears. I bought another one for my current V-8 Z project. These pics are of the un molested pan. This pan can be had in both left and right hand dipstick.

I think that's part of the big "NO" list when they designed all previous Z's. those bastards. Factory cup holders would be nice. In the Z-32, just pullout the ash tray and wa la, instant cup holder/change pocket. It’s not pretty, but it holds cups this size quite well. The cup wont fall out, though slosh is an issue, as with any cup holder.