BRAAP

Fuel Pressure regulator? A vacuum leak in the vacuum side or maybe just the fuel flowing through it under idle conditions causing the whistle? Maybe try disconnecting the vacuum line to the Fuel Pressure Regulator while its whistling. Does your car have the vacuum operated climate control, i.e. factory A/C, if so, is it connected? Keep us posted.

Austin, You know these pics just makes us more curious about your lifestyle… First a sports car with a trailer hitch, then a Dirt-bike with Sport-bike tires on it, being towed behind the sports car?!?!?! BTW, Your 350 looks Saweet at that height, and your “scooter” looks like it would be a hoot to ride on really tight twisty mountain roads…

Her family is in our prayers. It takes courage to make the commitment she made serving our country. In our prayers, Casey Casanova and her family, will be honored for the price paid by that commitment. Thank you and God Bless, to all who have served, Paul, Krystin, and the Ruschman family.

Bad form, VERY bad form Mr. 240swapped. As you can tell, a few of the members didn’t take kindly to your racist commentS. What you are calling “sense of humor” regardless of how long you have heard it or it has been around, is blatant racism and that will NOT be tolerated here PERIOD! If it ever comes up again, you’re out of here, for good. And one more thing. Please use your shift key on the key board. This thread sums up Lazy pinky fingers rather well; Click ME for opinions on Lazy pinkies... Good day, Paul Ruschman HybridZ staff.

Probably helped in removing the sand after casting the EGR plenum, and also to drill and access the small ports between the EGR plenum and Intake runners themselves.

Ditto…

Yeah, I like them, now quit your darn sniveling and get back out there and do something constructive, like build a shop or work on your Z... SLACKER!!! geeze....

What optics are you using? Is that an AO knob on top of the eye piece?

WOWZERS!!!!! Very nice...

“You screw just this much, and you’ll be unloading cargo planes full of Rubber Dogshat, out of Hong Kong!!!!” Congrats on the new job.

The old Datsun L-jet can not read a CAS. Unless you plan to totally simulate the 6 cylinder ignition system with the 3 firings per crank revolution, including a coil and way to disperse that hight tension electrical energy, it will not run on the 4 cylinder. As Ron already mentioned, the VE curves are SO different it will wont be drivable on the street. You might be able to get it to idle, but to drive it? I don't think so. Just throwing a cam in an L-6 which only alters the VE slightly makes so much change, and the factory EFI has flat spots in various parts of the of the power band because it can't deal with the altered VE curve. The KA is even SO much more different. Remove the boot between your AFM and Throttle body on your Z car and drive it. That is approx how the KA would run with the Z car EFI, and that is after you went through the trouble to totally simulate/duplicate the 6 cylinder ignition system on 4 cylinder, which will still need a 4 cylinder ignition system to fire the spark plugs. Sounds like a lot of work for something that still wont work, huh. That is our point. In getting the L-jet 6 cylinder system to work on any 4 cylinder, the shooting one self in the foot is probably the best analogy. You would be much farther ahead just getting a Megasquirt system and doing it right. Or as you mentioned, carburetion. Carburetion would MUCH more drivable, even if you just through on a Holley double pumper! You will have spark issues “then?!?!” You’ll have the exact same spark issues with carbs as with the Z car EFI. The Z car EFI ECU does not control the spark in any manner. the Z cars ignition system is completely standalone and independent of the EFI. The EFI only reads the spark from the negative side of the coil, waits for the third spark to occur and then fires the injectors. That is the only link the Datsun EFI has to the ignition system. Again, Mega-Squirt would answer ALL your issues, giving you precise control over your fuel, and Mega Squirt will even CONTROL/RUN your ignition as well, distributor and distributor-less ignition.

Those guys, JeffP, TonyD, 1fastZ, Grumpy, are our core engine building/tuner gurus and are always successfully pushing the performance envelope to the cutting edge. Thank you guys for chiming in. Take care, Paul

They most likely are not seized, just stuck. Typical from valve float causing the keepers to hammer the top of the keeper groove of the valve itself. Are you using a spring compressor of sorts? With the spring compressor on on the spring, lots of pressure on the retainer, using a small hammer, tap on the retainer and it will “let go”. Sometimes it takes a healthy thwack depending on how bad they are stuck. Just be sure to hit straight down, and not sideways tot he valve. Those same valves will more than likely have a ridge at the top of the keeper groove and sometimes, that ridge is enough to prevent the valve from easily sliding out the valve guides. Before you pull the valve out of the head, slide your fingers up the valve stem and across the keeper groove. You will feel this ridge I am talking about as it catches your finger. If so, “carefully” using a fine file, gently lay the file flat along side the valve stem and "lightly" file around the keeper groove as in the bottom picture, to remove that ridge so the valve will now easily pull through the guide without scoring the guide. If you didn’t nick/mar the valve stem during the ridge removal process, and the valve stems aren't worn too much, those valves should be reusable. Tapping stuck keepers; Free at last; Filing the ridge;

Yeup. good advice. Agree 100%

Yes, they are able to be torqued, disassembled, and retorqued several times. I do not know of a cycling limit. Someone such as Tony-D GrumpyVette, JeffP 1fastz, may know and hopefully chime in, or you can contact ARP directly with that question.

Torque specs are for the purpose of achieving a certain amount of bolt stretch, i.e. the spec is particular to that bolt being torqued, not the part/s you are clamping with said bolt or some other manufacturer of bolt. As such, do NOT second guess the bolt manufactures recommendations as it usually ends in disastrous results. For ARP Fasteners, follow ARP’s torque procedure TO THE LETTER!, including the exact lube for the torque spec they recommend.

Uh oh…. I just went through my PM box, all its subfolders, and I don’t have any PM’s from, or, to you. I did clean up my PM box about month or so ago… (cringing at the thought that I probably deleted a PM I was supposed to reply to…) PM me again. I’ll make sure I get back to you post haste. Please accept my apologies. Sorry, Paul

Looks awesome Brian. As always, good work. Love the fume-seal job

Great photo documentary. Looks like you two had a good time. Keep us posted on your L-28ET build ups.

Uh, that Z sort a looks like Ace and Gary’s car not that there is anything wrong with that… Make the car 1-2 pixels shorter, taken out between the front wheel and the cab, would bring that watch to more of, shall we say, a Hetero style watch.

Uh, there probably was back in July or 2001, when this thread was originally posted. For those who lost or don’t have there ARP paper work, and wanting the torque specs for their ARP hardware, try looking on the ARP web site!

You know I had to, right?… Being a donating member, we’ll change it to whatever you like.

I was having a hard time coming up with a user title for you, and then you give us this tidbit.

Chuck, Nothing from the Z-32 is a "bolt in" for an S-30. Yes, you can use the hubs, diff, etc, it all depends on your fabrication and engineering skills. The Short nose diff conversion has been done, quite a bit of work is involved, and typically it is usually done for the for the Q-45 short Nose R-200 diff or the R-230 out of the Z-32TT or Armada. The N/A Z-32 diff is NOT really an upgrade for a 280-Z. Output shafts are weaker, ratio is quite deep at 4.10:1, and the viscous LSD??? Well, that Viscous crap has been beat to death in other threads on this forum, in particular the stickies in the drive train forum. Good luck