BRAAP

Found a few more minutes tonight to play with the Z-32. Scrounged a long small vacuum hose, T’d it off the rear balance bar between the left and right plenums for the V-500 internal MAP sensor and drove the car down the road approx 2 miles. WOO-HOO!!! It drives, just not very well. Probably has to due with the fuel map being a VG30DETT with Turbo injectors and this is an N/A car. It will barely idle, and to drive it, you have to pump the pedal as it runs off the acceleration enrichment, part throttle will just hold no load engine speed. In neutral, stabbing the throttle at just the right rate and at the right time, the engine ZINGS to 7000 WAY quicker and with WAY more authority and snap than it ever has with OE ECU. Biggest unknown concerns were if the rest of the “cars” electronics that relied on the OE ECU for information would still function, such as the cruise control and climate control, and yes, everything still functions normally as do all the gauges.

You're such a tease. C'mon, you can tell us what it was... or... I can give you a custom user title ?!?!?! Heh hehe hehee hehee

Cary, Coming from you, I don't doubt it for a second. Thank you for the heads up.My only experince is from the multi-link cars I own and have owned, all of which had/have the stock rubber bushings, current car also has Illumina struts, Kumho 711 tires. I've also taken the lack of multilink suspended Nissans in the Solo nats results as an indicator as well. Sorry for the thread jack. Cary I'll PM you as I am very interested in carrying on this conversation.

Bolt spacing is not really a spec or criterion that Mustache bars are referred by. For what its worth, there are only 2 mustache bars available for the 70-78 Z cars including the coupe and 2+2. One is for the R-180 differential, the other is for the larger R-200. 1) The R-180 Mustache bar only fits the R-180 and the R-160 differentials, regardless of the 240/260/280 Z car it is being installed in, and routes in front of the uprights. (Non of the Z cars came with the R-160, but it can be installed with the R-180 mustache bar), 2) The R-200 mustache bar only fits the R-200 differential regardless of the 240/260/280 Z-car it is being installed in and routes behind the uprights and is thicker than the R-180 mustache bar. Side note. The newer short nose R-200 Differentials require quite a bit of fabrication to install in a 240/26/280 Z car including a custom or altered mustache bar as the rear bolt spacing is different yet. A few members here have altered the stock mustache to accept the newer short nose bolt spacing, though it requires techniques best left to professional shops, not really a backyard/garage DIY project. Hope that helps, Paul

Any particular reason, other than wanting to use "wide 5" wheels, for wanting to go through all the trouble to put a solid axle in the car? The stock Z car diff and rear suspension holds up to 700+ HP just fine and it would be easier to convert the flanges from 4 lug to whatever 5 bolt pattern you want than it would be to install a solid axle. This car below is using the stock Datsun diff and rear suspension.

Which 300-ZX are asking about, Z-31 or Z-32?

Next year Apple will release the "iParco" steering wheel and it will only be compatible in the "Smart car", and of course Belkin and DLO will have lots of covers to choose from...

The gentleman who posted this question owns/built a VERY quick RB powered Z-32....

Tach needle is at least below 500 RPM, probably sitting on zero, OE clock is not illuminated, stereo is off, as well as the Turbo Timer, so most likely the engine is not running, yet the OE Boost gauge reads full vacuum! Oh, and it will cost approx $50-$60 to bring that fuel gauge back to full and only 50-60 miles to empty it.

It is a Z interior, '91/92-96 Z-32 300-ZX with a TT speedo. ('90 and I think '91 had the tweed interior trim) Look closer at the plate adjacent to the shift lever. That looks like an automatic shift lever with a pistol grip squeeze trigger style lock, hence the lack of a clutch pedal. Still searching the pic and everything so far, seems to add up... What are we missing here?

Short version; Started and idled my bone stock N/A Z-32 on the WOLF V-500 Z-32TT Direct Fit for a couple seconds. Idled glass smooth on all 6 cylinders with NO changes or alterations to the pre-programmed maps/config and with NO MAP hose connected! Longer version; I purchased a WOLF V-500 for another Z project, (Project FUZZY) that I have approx 90% of the parts for including the engine, trans, car, suspension, etc. I just need to find the time and motivation to assemble and build project FUZZY! So in the mean time, wanting to get familiar with WOLF V-500 and play with it a little, I purchased the direct fit for my Z-32. The WOLF Direct Fit kits consist of the universal WOLF V-500 ECU, programmed for whatever application and a mini harness that allows the V-500 to plug into the factory ECU harness. This particular direct fit is for the Z-32-TT and is set for 20 PSI boost, installed in my stock ’93 N/A Z-32. I also bought the Wolf recommended "USB to serial" adaptor just to be sure I had no comm errors. Tonight I found a few minutes to actually see if I could get the Wolf plugged into the car, verify my lap top would communicate with the V-500, and verify I did indeed have some sort of MAP/configuration in the V-500 to start the Z-32. 1) Installed WOLF software on Lap Top. 2) Installed USB to SERIAL adapter CD/drivers. 3) Unplugged OE Z-32 ECU and plugged in Wolf V-500 to the car. 4) Turned on Lap Top. 5) Connected Lap Top to V-500. 6) Took a minute to set correct COMM port. 7) Verified there was some sort of MAP and config in the V-500. 8) Started the motor, it idled for a couple seconds. 9) Got out of car. 10) Performed HAPPY DANCE! Thank you to Ron Tyler for watching over my shoulder as this took place making sure I didn’t accidentally C: format or something along those lines. Plugged the OE Nissan ECU back in for now as this is my daily driver. I hope to find some time in the near future, (hopefully in the next few months), to actually drive the car on the V-500 and start retuning the maps for my N/A VG30DE.

Cool test... 17 correct out of 18.

What ratios were available? Any tall ratios such as 3.15 or any 2.xx:1 ratios?

This looks like a fun project that will have lots of WOW factor. Looking forward to seeing this project come to fruition. I realize this info is pointless here, though just wanted to share for clarification purposes. Regarding the multilink rear suspension from the 240-SX, Z-32, J-30 and Q-45, they are very much alike and differ mostly in subtle differences in track width, calipers, rotors, etc, otherwise they are essentially the same multilink rear suspension. They do all come in 5 bolt wheel pattern, except the early 240-SX which is 4 bolt. Not sure what you mean by the Z stuff “not being modular”, but ALL of the control arms do attach to a cradle like the Lexus set up and that cradle attaches to the car at four points like the Lexus set up. In looking over the Lexus pics, even without plotting out the dynamic geometry of that suspension, I would agree that from a performance standpoint, the Lexus set up looks to be an improvement over the Nissan rear multi-link. Due to how the Nissan rear suspension operates with the geometry changes it undergoes during different braking, acceleration, cornering loads etc, that rear suspension is not really a world class corner carving set up. It works fine if it doesn’t move, i.e. overly to stiff and the road/track is perfectly smooth, but so does a welded/locked/unmovable suspension in that scenario. Outside of those conditions, my opinion is that even semi trailing arm would be an upgrade over the Nissan Multilink for a truly performance oriented sports car. This Lexus set up looks like it behaves like a double A-arm set up and should compliment your Lexus front suspension, not only in name sake, but in performance as well. Keep us posted on your progress.

Retarding the timing is far worse than the restrictor plate on many levels, mileage, exhaust heat, etc. Limiting throttle travel would be the most effective non evasive zero impact method to limit power production. Either at the pedal in the car or at the TB or anywhere in the linkage in between. Just be "absolutely" sure your throttle limiting method will not cause the throttle to bind or stick.

Hmmm… I daydream about members actually having enough respect to capitalize and punctuate their posts, (proof read), and to get over their fear of search engines… Oh, and sometimes I day dream about a high revving custom Rusch Motorsports V-8 sporting a single-plane crank in my Z-32….

Yes it can and has been done successfully and discussed here on a few occasions. If memory serves, the latest discussion on that topic, last summer, was the most enlightening, though I don’t recall the exact thread, sorry. Hopefully one of those guys that did it will chime in or you might try a few strategic terms in the search engine. Not sure if these terms will help or not, but it is a start at least; “Round port Turbo”, Exhaust liner Turbo”, P-79 Turbo”, "N-47 Turbo”, etc.

As for removing the ballast resistor? I would read the paperwork/instructions that came with your coil. It should tell you if that coil requires a ballast resistor or not, and if so, what OHM value they recommend. Follow the manufacture recommendations. The block ground is typical, the valve cover ground is not and probably used to be the body ground. My opinion is the block ground and a body ground is minimum. Adding a dedicated ground strap from the alternator to the block or to the negative battery wire is not a bad idea as well, and even adding a couple more body grounds for redundancy, incase one starts to corrode etc. Hope that helps. Paul

The divot in the middle of the rocker is becoming more and more common, especially on high mileage motors. L-series Rockers are reusable with other cams, so long as they are smooth, i.e. no divots. Finding good reusable rockers is getting harder. Over the past year, maybe one head in 50 that I’ve seen had rockers that I would considerable to be reusable with a different cam or on a different head. I think the lack of Zinc in modern oils is exaggerating this issue, though that is just my theory right now so don’t take that as gospel. The rockers can be resurfaced and the cost is affordable. If memory serves, I think Jon Mortensen has a reputable shop do his. By the way, those rockers can be reused on the head they came from with the original cam actuating the same valves, as long as the head hasn’t had the top surfaced and/or a valve job, which would slightly alter the cam wipe pattern, which could rapidly wear the cam lobe in very short order.

I’m pretty sure, though not 100% sure, the Haynes manual has all those items in it. Red; is the ballast resistor for the stock coil. Green; as you suspected, is the crank case breather and originally went to the PCV. Blue; Ron says he’ll post on that.

3sev3n, You’re new here and based on your posts, obviously have not read our rules and guidelines. Please take the time to read through them, especially #3, #5. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=135&a=2 Also, lack of using either of the SHIFT keys on your keyboard and lack of pretty much any punctuation whatsoever, is exactly what this thread linked below is all about. Please read it… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131518

As often as this topic has been covered and literally beat to death here including the posting of this picture, you didn’t find your answer during your “search”? This is a STOCK Datsun/Nissan R-200 diff with welded spider gears, Blown Nitrous Fed V-8 running 8 seconds @ 150+ MPH!

The fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump are designed to hold fuel pressure after the engine is shut off, but some do leak, even brand new. If the fuel pressure is rapidly bleeding off over a couple seconds time span after the engine is shut off?….. Also might try just disconnecting power to the fuel pump while it is whistling and note any pitch change as the fuel pressure drops and the engine starts to stumble and die.

Also, maybe pinch/restrict the fuel return line before the fuel pressure regulator and note any change in pitch. Only do that if you know for sure the rest of the fuel system can handle the spike in pressure. I don’t recommend restricting the fuel line after the regulator as that adds more stress to the diaphragm inside the FPR, depending on how much pressure you pump is capable of producing, the FPR may handle it just fine. In short, just be sure everything is up to snuff if you try this as the pressures will be greater.